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[T3] cheaper Torque Miester tool review


<x-flowed>Hi All,

I got to finally try out my cheaper"Torque Tool" (knock-off of the Torque Miester")
http://store.cip1.com/Merchant2/merchant.mv?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=ACC-C10-7036&Category_Code=23-02


I have a rear suspension sans-tranny from a 74 thing that has the complete brake system on the rear wheels. It was a Galveston, TX car, supposedly used as a beach patrol car, so you can imagine how rusty this "thing" was. now add about 5 years of sitting outside, unprotected with no cover.

The wheels no longer turn, even the torsion bar housing was pitted with rust. and now, with no chassis in front of the housing... how do you remove the drums?

So, I got the tool for $50 from CIP1.com and went after it. My kit did not come with the washers or clips pictured in the link above, but they aren't required for the tool to work from my experience this weekend.

Goal: remove the drums to see if they can be resurfaced and used on my new project.
(parts costs: $60+ per each drum as opposed to $30 each for Bug) and get all the brake components.



First, I got an extra can of PB Blaster http://www.pbblaster.com/store/moreinfo.cfm?Product_ID=1&CFID=3354329&CFTOKEN=2905801 great stuff!


Then I had to get a pair of longer bolts that match the size and pitch of the 5-lug lug-bolts (good thing about parting out multiple VW's is that I found a stash of shoulder bolts that fit the bill exactly) because the stock lug bolts will not reach far enough to install the gear plate. Unfortunately I have no idea what car or what part the bolts came off... but they have 19mm heads and were about 2inches long including shoulder. Maybe one of the other long-timers can remember what they came from...


Anyway, I shot PB Blaster all over the axle nut, inside the rusty lug holes (to loosen the most likely rusted shoes) and shot the backs of the brake cylinders and all the brake line junctions. Then gave the axle and the drums a couple of shock-blows with a 5 pound sledge to get the PB Blaster some working room.

Then attached the 1/4 circle gear plate to the drum at the lug holes, removed the axle nut cotter pin, attached the large end of the Torque Tool arm and selected the gear with the wider surface (this one is also used for the 12V flywheel when you want to remove the gland nut) and inserted it into the small end.

I then used my ~6 inch long, 3/8" drive ratchet with an 11mm socket to turn the gear and off the axlenut came!

It then took about 30 min of hammering on the drum to get it to come off the axle, but the Torque Tool did it's job quickly, just as promised. I think it took longer to find the longer bolts than it did to remove the axlenut.

_______________________________

My thoughts on the torque tool:
I really felt nervous about using the 6", 3/8" drive wrench with an 11mm socket initially. Not so much the loss of the tool (it's a Craftsman, it's got a lifetime warrantee), but the initial push on it made me wince and look away from fear that the socket might explode. I wish that I still had my 12" long 3/8" drive wrench as that would make less of an effort for me on the initial push. My wish would have been that the gear shaft would be 14mm or better so that a thicker 1/2 inch ratchet wrench could be used, but it's more of a comfort level than was actually needed for the job.


But the Torque Tool worked well for me on this task.

PS: the torque arm even has the multiplier formula embossed so that you can have the specs when you torque a nut ON to your drum or flywheel.

So, in my opinion, it's worth the $50 for this  home-use or hobby-use tool.

Maybe the REAL "Torque Miester" tool does more for the extra money? I don't know, I haven't had the opportunity to inspect one.


Big Al Houston


--


Insert gratuitous plugs here.

Houston Volkswagen Club
http://www.hvwc.net

Type 3 Parts Book Online
http://www.autographica.com/t3pbo

Current project: 1956 Oval
http://www.autographica.com/1067689/

Type 3 Cabriolet Project
1962 Notchback Restoration
http://www.autographica.com/VW/



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