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Dave Hall wrote:
>I'd go for metal getting on for 1mm thick - scrap Square roof section is a
>wonderful material, which can be shaped well, costs nothing if you've one to
>scrap and with care holds onto its original paint protection apart from where
>you fold or weld it.
You found that out too? That roof metal is some of the thickest steel I've
seen in a car in a long time ( I just got me some more too). But what you're
looking for is something either 18 to 22 gauge steel. This IS thicker than
most cars are today, but about normal for our cars. The bumper box part was
probably built out of 16 gauge steel, so this will be thicker than the wall
its being welded to.
Jason wrote:
>I found a nice co-worker that has a mig welder and some experience.
>However, he was worried that the thin metal that makes up the 'box' that
>holds the bumper bracket may pose a problem as in the weld cutting through
>the metal, especially if the patch is thicker metal.
See above as I think we answered it, as it should be thicker that the patch
metal.
>Since the metal has to be thick enough to hold the bumper but not too thick.
Are you building a new bumper mount? If so then build it out of some 16 gauge
steel and it should last a very long time. Just remember to weld some nuts on
the inside for the bolts to tighten to like the factory did.
>I suppose that we could make the patch large enough that it welds at the
upper
>most point along the seam? Also, should the patch completely enclose this
>section (as original) and should we then drill holes to let any water out so
>it does not rot again?
Yes you could do this, but why not save as much existing steel as you can
(trim the rust out), and make the patch the size of the opening or just a
little larger. If the original section was enclosed then thats how you want
it to look when you're done. Look at the other side for reference, as that
what you want for the side you're repairing, and POR 15 the h**l out of it. I
hope this helps.
Bob 65 Notch S w/ Sunroof
69 Square AT-the baby suburban
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