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>That concave shape, convex from the gasket side, is the problem. >The fix I prefer is to bend the pan back into shape. A little distortion in the >opposite direction is not a problem. >I like to use a large (~1") diameter steel ball on top and a steel tube >underneath. Put these together in a press to push the sealing surface back >toward flat. >You can also use a tube on the bottom and the peen end of a ball peen hammer. I used the ball peen hammer method, since I don't have a press. It was somewhat successfull. I now just have a small amount of seepage, once it gather it starts to drip but not nearly as bad. I may be able to live with it this way for a while. Part of my problem is also getting the torque correct. I have one of those dial type and it is hard to see the gauge will I am under the car. Plus this time I torque, waited 5 minutes retorque again and again until the it stayed torqued, maybe that helped. >I have some large Belleville washers which I think may cure this, but I >understand that large block Chevys use special pressure spreader washers which >might be commonly available in automotive machine shops. The whole point is to >avoid exerting ALL the bolting force just around the edge of the hole in the >pan. I have looked all over for these and have not been able to find them. But I did not check a machine shop. Lets hope this time it holds, at least for a couple of months :) Jason Smith 71 Square AT FI http://jasontsmith.tripod.com/vw.htm ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ List info at http://www.vwtype3.org/list | mailto:gregm@vwtype3.org