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On 7 Jun 2003 at 2:34, Chris J Valade wrote: > I changed my spark plugs today and two issues came up: 1) I am > missing the rubber boot for one spark plug cable, is this important? > Should I replace it immediately? 2) All my SPs had carbon > deposits...does this indicate that the timing had been off? Something > else? How can I find out and fix it? You can replace the boot with a good one from the junk yard, or they can be bought new or used from someone on the list. Some carbon is normal. Can't tell from here how much you have. To check the timing use a timing light. It's worth buying one so you'll always have it. > Then I tested the coil by removing the thick cable from the dist > cap and opened and closed the points with a screwdriver, and I got a > spark, but it was mostly yellow/orangish but also with blue and purple. > Is rhis normal? I didn't have anyone to help me out, so I couldn't check > if I was able to get a spark when starting the car with the thick wire > from the coil grounded on to the engine, I will do this again tomorrow. > Even though I got a spark, could the condensor be faulty, going, or > something? Spark color really means almost nothing. It depends more on the metals that the spark is to/from and the gasses that are in the gap. If you get a spark that is good; no spark is bad. > I tested the fuel pressure while turning the engine (i.e. not at > idle), and I got 34PSI...would it being this high prevent the engine from > starting (28 is where I want it right...for idle anyhow)? Maybe by > flooding it before it gets a chance to even fire up? Is the psi > different when starting the car than when in idle, and if so, is 34 > within range? Although, there is one problem with how I tested it: the > fuel pressure gauge I got is a screw on and there is nothing to screw it > on to on the T connection between the injectors, so it was spraying a > little, but this would give a lower reading, not a higher one right? > Besides, what can I do to prevent that, and if it isn't possible, what > sort of fuel pressure gauge should I replace this one with? You need a gauge with a 5/16" nipple and a length of 5/16" hose. You're right, a little leakage will give a low reading, if anything, so it is clear that your pressure is set too high. 30 psi is what you want, and this is constant all the time the engine is running. > The oil is dripping from the trans close to the engine, but is > obviously engine oil...any idea where it could be coming from? Most likely the crankshaft seal at the front of the engine, although there are other possibilities. > Given that I've got a '71 dual carb case, what year should I be > buying parts for my engine for? I've been buying 70 parts...could this > be a problem? 70 parts should be correct. > I plan to buy myself a compression gauge and do a compression > check as soon as possible, I will of course post the results. I also > plan to buy a new condensor, and if it turns out the old one is in > working condition, then I'll have an extra one for when it does fail (I > had planned to buy an extra one anyhow, and didn't since they didn't have > one in stock). Plus, I will test the side of the coil with the green > wire and see what results I get. Buy a Bosch condensor if you want a spare. -- ******************************* Jim Adney, jadney@vwtype3.org Madison, Wisconsin, USA ******************************* ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ List info at http://www.vwtype3.org/list | mailto:gregm@vwtype3.org