[Date Prev][Date Next][Thread Prev][Thread Next][Date Index][Thread Index] [New Search]
Hello- > I was interested in Shad's description of how to check the diagonal arms. Like > most of the rest of you I had not considered that possibility. > > Shad, can you tell us where the arms tend to bend? I haven't tried to accurately measure anything, but there is no obvious single point of bending. The main length of it just seems to fatigue and bend little bits over time. If you want a really rigid trailing arm, you can get 85.5-86 (~0.5-1" wider track per side) or 87-up (~2"-3" wider track per side) 944 arms. They are solid cast aluminum :-). But, if you do, you have to convert all the 944 stuff over. The stub axles are shorter (i.e. outer CV joints are further outboard in the car) and use a totally different spline pattern to the drum/hub/disc/whatever. The 83-85.5 ones have no track width change and have the identical spline pattern for the drum/hub/disc/whatever. > Is it safe to assume that such bending would be more common in squares where > they might have been subjected to more load, or in other cars that were driven > roughly, as in off-road, or from Sandy Eggo to Tijuana? > > (I hope Luis is listening. ;-) Yah, and excessive anti-sway bars, heavy shocks, and the like probably don't help either. Especially not if you force the car to handle like a Porsche on a daily basis. I'm screwed :-). The only weak point of my suspension right now is the front. Unfortunately, to get much better, it all has to go into the trash... the twin trailing arm thing isn't so hot. Take care, Shad Laws LN Engineering - Aircooled Precision Performance http://www.lnengineering.com ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ List info at http://www.vwtype3.org/list | mailto:gregm@vwtype3.org