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On 26 Jul 2003 at 19:28, Matthew Willis wrote: > - She is finicky on starting. Often, I must wait up to 15 seconds with > the key in "start" before the starter will begin turning. Once it does, > it doesn't sound slow or labored. It just seems like there's a > significant delay of some sort before the starter will engage. There isn't anything that should cause a delay like this. Something's wrong here. Does wiggling the key help? Do the dash lights dim when you first turn the key or only after the delay when the starter kicks in? > - "Ticking" coming from the front of the car whenever the key is in run > or start: Fuel pump, right? Is this normal or the sign of something I > should be addressing? It's the non stock electric fuel pump that was installed when the FI was torn out and replaced by the carbs. > - Brake warning light illuminates whenever I press the brake pedal. > Brakes seem solid and not squishy. Fluid levels seem to be normal and > stay that way. Any electrical issues I should check before pulling > apart wheels? This indicates a problem. It is possible that something is wired up wrong, or that the indicator light is wired wrong, or that the MC was replaced with the later style and something was done wrong with that conversion. It's also possible that the light indicates a failure of one of the brake circuits, but this seems likely given your description of how the brakes seem to work and feel. > - The clutch point is pretty much on the floor. Any easy adjustments > for this? There should be about 1" of free play in the clutch. If the return spring back at the transmission is broken (common) then you won't be able to feel this and the adjustment will be "fuzzy." It may be that this is as it should be and that your expectations are wrong. > - One of the previous owners removed the fuel injection and fitted her > with dual Webers. However, the car came with a box of the fuel > injection components that were removed. So the question becomes should > I leave the Webers or restore the FI? Pros and cons? I prefer well > restored-to-stock older cars to customized ones, so I'm leaning towards > FI, but I wanted to learn more about why someone yanked it in the first > place. The FI would likely have run better and polluted much less, but there was probably something wrong with the FI system that led the owner to switch over. It's most likely that the problem had a cheap simple cure, but that the owner couldn't find it. Unless you're really dedicated, or already familiar with the FI, it would be quite hard to put it all back together successfully. There are a lot of things to get right. > - Windshield washer button doesn't work. (Same problem on my Thing.) > There's fluid in the bottle, the line is hooked to the spare, and the > spare has air. No dice. It's common for the valve in the cap of the reservoir to die. I think new ones can still be bought. > - Anyone have sources for the rubber mat over the engine bay? I found a > place that has black repros, but I'd like a brown one like it had. Wow, brown? Are you sure? What is your paint color and interior vinyl panel color? > Thanks in advance for any insight or opinions, and I'm pleased to be a > part of the Type 3 community! Welcome to the list. It's a disease! ;-) -- ******************************* Jim Adney, jadney@vwtype3.org Madison, Wisconsin, USA ******************************* ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ List info at http://www.vwtype3.org/list | mailto:gregm@vwtype3.org