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Jim, I was concerned about the torsion bars thinking that maybe they had gone down a few notches under the pressure of the drop, but now that you mention it I don't think I will mess with that unless after everything else the front end is still low. Besides that, if they did turn it shouldn't be a problem since they still feel tight (does this mean that it was impossible for what I fear to have occurred at all?) and because I can place them in at the correct angle anyhow? From all I can tell, the torsion arms look like they are in perfect condition: this is based on comparing diagrams, pictures, and each of them with each other. Should I worry if the ball joint moves too freely? And it would be a bad idea to not get new dust boots...right? Especially given that Vegas is a dry and dusty place--go figure, it being a desert and all=) Does anyone produce ball joint boots, or boots for a different ball joint that would work, or hell, is there much of a chance finding good quality used ones? So, the concern with holes in the front axle beam are really concerns with rust? If that is the case, and there is no other problem, then I will probably just ignore any holes since rust is practically unheard of here cause of how dry it is. Anyhow though, the hole is actually just in that large straight piece of the beam in the middle of the front end and not near anything beyond the bars, of course. The other problem with the beam I think I didn't describe clearly, or if I did I misunderstood your response, so: What is bent are the portions of the beam that have the rubber stops on them, and I now believe both are bent upwards just enough to cause the tires to be so much closer to the body. I discovered this when the left upper torsion arm wouldn't come out despite my attempts to force it out with a crow bar which I not only pulled on with all my strength but also hammered. I realized that something had to be in the way and when I was looking I noticed that the portion of the beam described above which comes out just below the lower torsion arms was shiny silver and there were tiny pieces of metal around it since that part of the beam was in contact with the arm. The metal that is blocking the arms exit is sloped and it gets way to high for that arm to ever come out without that part being bent back. Today I went to see what the upper torsion arm should look like by putting the right upper torsion arm in, and found the same difficulties, although a tad less pronounced since I was able to remove it with less difficulty. Also, I was just looking at pictures of the front end when it wasn't jacked up and everything was assembled and noticed something that confused me: should the lower torsion arms be touching the rubber stops, or should it be the upper torsion arms that are touching the rubber stops? In the pictures, the lower arms are the ones that are touching the rubber stops. So, with this, I could--I suppose--bend that piece of the beam back so that the rubber stops are in about the right relationship with the arms, or do these have to be exact for safety and the like? Sincerely, Christopher J. Valade ________________________________________________________________ The best thing to hit the internet in years - Juno SpeedBand! Surf the web up to FIVE TIMES FASTER! Only $14.95/ month - visit www.juno.com to sign up today! ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ List info at http://www.vwtype3.org/list | mailto:gregm@vwtype3.org