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I agree with this, its a pain but if you like intricate work and a challenge go for it. There is an art in balancing them and calibrating them... it takes a while to learn so have someone give a few pointers if possible. Keith > If you are really good with your hands in small spaces then I say it is > about an 8. It's not that hard to make one; the hard part is getting it > right and not making a mess of it. I am pleased with my first effort. > (original cosmetic issues aside - those are still on the list) > > The hard parts: (in order of difficulty and time consumption) > 0. I wasn't about to try to remove/replace the numbers on the face, so > function follows form here > 1. getting the hands off without tearing them up (mine seemed to be frozen > on the clock movement) > 2. balancing the much heavier clock hand on the tach movement and performing > the calibration > 3. making the test set up and the calibration wav's and getting them to work > right > 4. getting the minute hand to mate to the tach movement (way different shaft > diameters) > 5. stuffing the tach signal wire through my new (uninstalled) wiring harness > so that it goes in the sheath under the dash and comes out right next to the > coil. > > I am extremely pleased with the accuracy (check out the video). Keith Park > made a good point about cheapo aftermarket tachs and their stability, but I > have yet to observe or test mine over a long period of time or under extreme > conditions. I only paid $50 for my tach, but it seemed to be the best > quality one they had at the Kragen's at the time, so hopefully I won't have > those problems. > > Hope That Helps, > Freddie Lochner > http://www.geocities.com/SixtyNineNotch/ > > ------------------------------------------------ > To unsubscribe, E-mail to: <type3-off@vwtype3.org> > For more help, see http://vwtype3.org/list/ > ------------------------------------------------ To unsubscribe, E-mail to: <type3-off@vwtype3.org> For more help, see http://vwtype3.org/list/