RE: [T3] '67 Ignition switch problems

["Daniel Hoopes" <dan1@hoopes.net>]

In case anyone remembers, I had the problem with my ignition switch.  It's a
67, so I can't just go buy a new one.  I took it apart and put all the
pictures up at:
http://www.hoopes.net/dan/square/current.html

Question #1
I got a few responses, but one suggested that I drill out the knurled pieces
to get into the keyed part of my lock cylinder to fix the "return to run
position" spring.  I couldn't ever find where the spring went, and that's
the reason I haven't put it back together yet.  I wanted to kill that bird
while the whole shebang was apart.  If anyone knows for sure where that
spring is, I would love it if they could please annotate one of my pictures
from the above web page to tell me where to look.  I don't want to drill out
the lock cylinder unless that's where it is for sure.

Question #2
If you look at the pictures, you'll notice that my plastic end cap was quite
fried.  I have resoldered the connections with clean wires.  Can someone
tell me what the contact positions should be?  I wanted to test it with my
multimeter on the bench before getting it all put back in the car.  So, I've
got a red, a black and a red/black.  Which ones should be in contact in the
two different positions?

The problem is, the cap is cracked so I'm going to use PC-7 to get it to
stay in place in the housing.  That also means I won't be able to fix it
again unless I break the PC-7, so I want to get the electrical connections
working well before I glue it.  If anyone has a better suggestion for this
ordeal, let me know.

How about using a regular push-button switch instead of my key switch?
Anyone found a good generic switch I could put under my dash, kinda hidden
so I could just leave my broken one there for looks?

Any help is greatly appreciated.  Stanley has been sitting for months now
because I've been doing med school applications and haven't had a second to
get around to this.

Thanks,

Dan

'67 Square, Stanley

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