Re: [T3] Severe engine problems...?

[BOB2TYPE3S@aol.com]

Chris wrote:
>       I tested the resistance of the SP wires and from the dist cap end
>to the SP wire end, here is what I got with the volt ohmmeter set on 2000
>ohm:
 
                        1                2                3              4
>SP wire            1995          1979          1953         1984
>dist to wire        1991         1982          1954         1971
 
>Could the length of the wires account for the drop in resistance?
 
>       Isn't it: volts X resistance = amps?


I'm not sure exactly what your measuring here; (SP wire), is this just the 
wire itself ?
And the other, is this the total wire including the spark plug connector?  
I'm only asking because your numbers seem jumbled around with a difference of 1 
to 3 ohms +or - , and they should be all higher with the end in place versus 
just the wire. Are these the original wires with the angled distributor ends, 
or are these the newer Bosch with either straight or 90 degree distributor ends 
? I'm only asking because I'd like to know before you destroy a set of wires. 
You might try this test again, taking the reading from one end to the other 
(overal length of the wire including the spark plug connector), then we might 
get a better reading. 

I can't help you on the AAR, as I'm a carb guy, so I'll have to leave it to 
the FI experts.

 
 
> From what I could see I do have the front cover plate, but I'm
>uncertain.  Should I be able to see it when looking down on the engine?
 
This is good, as it helps block the warm air the engine just exhausted out 
from being recycled.

> Yeah, I do have that ~1/4" diameter rod for the flaps, so that
>will help when I get into checking those out.

Ok, you have the rod, this means that there might or might not be a set of 
flaps on it. If there are flaps, then they need to be open, espescially if you 
don't have the thermostat. If these are closed, you don't get any cooling air 
to the motor.
 
>  As regards the kickdown switch, I think I may not be
>understanding you so...  On my throttle there is only the return spring,
>also I can push it until the flap hits that piece on the IAD which stops
>it.
 
I can't help much on this, as I don't have FI.

> How do I check for low voltage on the voltage regulator relay?

Well, you're not going to check the regulator per say, you're actually 
checking (reading the voltage) at the battery. This is done so you can compare the 
differences and determine if the regulator is actually doing its job.
 
>  I'm still concerned about the vacuum hose on the dist.  When I
>suck on it with my mouth creating as much vacuum as I can the plate does
>move, but then slowly returns (I keep the hose plugged with my tongue). 

This is a good test, and you've just found out that it is bad, as it should 
hold position without moving until you release it. It has a slow leak, or your 
hose does, find out which before replacing, as the hose is cheaper than the 
vac unit.

> How did I do this time?  Better=)

Yes, but you could work on it a little ; )

Bob 65 Notch S w/ Sunroof
       69 Squareback-AT - the baby suburban
       71 Squareback- formerly undecided, now becoming a 2 seat Roadster, in 
progress : )

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