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On 1 Aug 2003 at 21:23, Molleston wrote: > Sorry, poor e-mail etiquette on my part. Yes, Sammy is the car's name. > I'll reiterate . . . my original post of July 15th stated that Sammy, our '69 > FI AT SB wants to start but just can't quite seem to do it. Due to unfore- > seen circumstances, the car hasn't been run for about four months (my bad, > I know -- no reprimands, please). I'm sure I'm partly at fault here, too. As I get older I seem to have more and more trouble remembering what each person has previously posted about their car. After awhile they all just seem to blend together.... So please remember to include a few important details with your descriptions EACH time you post, as you've done this time. It also helps if you don't quote unnecessary material. > In looking through e-mails I've saved and through the archives, I've > seen similar starting problems and have tried some of the suggestions. > Here's what's going on now: > -Engine cranks but just won't grab. > -There is gas in the tank. > -While turning the key on (not trying to start), both clicks can be heard. > -The buzz near the RF tire can be heard between the two clicks. This really tells us that the basic electronics of the FI are all working. Unfortunately, there are still things that can go wrong. > -The series of clicks as the throttle is slowly pressed down can be > heard from the engine end of things. (However, I'm not sure I'm hearing > the proper click sounds.) The clicks can also be felt in the actual > accelerator pedal. Are those the clicks I should be hearing/feeling? On a 69 there should be no series of clicks. There should be just a single mechanical click as you "just" open the throttle. This is the click that the microswitch inside the throttle valve switch makes as it changes states. I don't know what you are hearing/feeling unless your throttle cable is frayed. A 69 should have a throttle valve switch (black plastic box on the right side of the throttle shaft) with just 2 pins in its connector. If yours has more, then someone has changed your FI to a later version and you WILL have a series of clicks. The tests below will apply in either case. > -What do we check next? > > Per Jim's suggestion, I used an extra spark plug to figure out if we > had spark and sure enough we do. I'm now wondering what to check > next, hence my sloppy post of "Okay, checked the spark and all is well > there. Now what should we try?" Somehow we'd like to verify that your injectors are getting the signal to squirt each time. There are several things to try to check, but none of these are easy, mainly because you have to listen for a rather faint noise at the same time the starter is cranking. Here are several things to try: Stand at the engine and hold each hand on an injector. Try to keep your arms 1/4" away from the spark plug leads. Have a friend crank the starter. If you can hear/feel both injectors "click" then this is a direct confirmation. The 2 clicks may come simultaneously, or they may alternate, depending on which 2 you grab. If you can feel this, verify the other 2 injectors also. Lay on the ground under the front of the car and put a hand on the fuel pump (behind the front axle beam on the right side, right is right.) Feel the pump buzz for ~1 second when you turn the key ON. Verify that the pump comes back on when your friend cranks the engine with the starter. If you have tools, you can do both of these tests without the starter. Pull the center wire out of the distributor and lay it down against the engine somewhere' don't let it spark to any of the wiring. Then turn the key ON and turn the engine over CW using a wrench on the generator shaft nut. Listen for the injector clicks AND for the fuel pump to run for ~1 second after each click. Let us know what you find. -- ******************************* Jim Adney, jadney@vwtype3.org Madison, Wisconsin, USA ******************************* ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ List info at http://www.vwtype3.org/list | mailto:gregm@vwtype3.org