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On 10 Apr 2003 at 6:50, emilio tiraboschi wrote: > Hi all, and thanks so much for the answers to the previous questions. > I have replaced both rear cylinders and now I'm in trouble because i can't > adjust and bleed them properly. I'm sure the fitting of all the components > is ok. With the drum off, i checked both adjusters, and they do turn freely > and are rust-free. Before refitting the drums, i put some Mo-grease on them, > and i have turned all of them in initial position. Once refitted drums, both > front adjusters turn about 2 notchs only, and the rear about 4: but the pads > don't touch the drum, wheels turn well and brake pedal goes all down. I suspect you're just turning them in the wrong direction. Because of the way they're designed it's easy to get confused about this at first. It may be helpful to take the drum off and watch what you have to do from the brake side to understand this. > The > bleeding is another question, i have followed the haynes instruction but > still air is present in the circuit. I kept the reservoir full during the > operation. How can I do this properly, with the help of an assistant? I > think i've made some mistakes, for example trying to bleed brakes before > setting them properly. If everything is correct, it is possible to bleed these by simply opening the bleed valve and letting gravity do the job. Keep an eye on the reservoir and close the valve once air bubbles stop coming out with the fluid. If this does not work then there is a problem in the system somewhere. Check to make sure that you have a bit of free play at the pedal. It is also quite likely that the rubber flex hoses have deteoriated inside and are blocking the flow. I'm afraid this is quite common. In general, bleeding can be done with just one person. You don't really have to close the bleed valve after each stroke; just pump a few times and then check your progress. > Can you help me? Lastly just a thougth: I've removed the little > springs that push the pad against the backplate with some difficult, > and I refit them by compressing spring, holding it compressed by thin > steel thread, refit pin and cupwasher, cut and remove thread. For the > next time can you suggest me an easier way to do this? I hold the pin in place from the rear with one hand and pick up the cup/spring from the end with a large pair of pliers and just PUSH it over the pin. Maintain the pressure until the cup is far enough over the pin and then rotate the cup 90 degrees. Once you get the idea it takes about 15 seconds. -- Jim Adney jadney@vwtype3.org Madison, WI 53711-3054 USA ------------------------------------------------------------------- List info at http://www.vwtype3.org/list | mailto:gregm@vwtype3.org