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<x-charset iso-8859-1>Hello- > Factory 1967 single vacuum advance. No mechanical. I > really don't care for the electronic ignition > conversion pieces that are being made. Most seem of > VERY poor quality. I tend to like Compufires. I've put lotsa lotsa miles on them, and never had a failure*. In fact, I trust them so much that I have TWO on my FASTback engine right now: one is the crank position sensor and is mounted to the cast T4 fan shroud to read magnets I inset into the cast T4 fan, and the other is in my locked-advance distributor with three magnets missing as a "cam position" sensor. Just occasionally guesstimate the air gap and you are good to go. There is a wide margin of tolerance, but if you are out of it, you'll misfire. * I did reverse wire one by accident once, and it still worked for a couple months, but started running hot and cutting out. I took it down to the Compufire building in Pomona, as I lived in So. CA at the time, and they replaced it for free w/o a receipt or anything. And that was _my_ fault, not theirs. > If anything, I'd go for a modern > Mallory unit. Those are quite nice! I did have one QC-related problem with one I had once, but I fixed it myself (the optical trigger box fell in half, and I put it back together with more adhesive than the factory used... problem solved). The advance on those are rock solid. > >Are you going to keep the original transmission in > >the car or will you purchase either a new or rebuilt > >one? > > I plan on installing a Rancho rebuilt > trans., but am still debating the freeway flyer issue. > Does anyone have any experence with this? > > >Here is another issue that I am not sure that many > >have not thought about; the tires. Are the stock ones > >going to be used? > > Yes. Stock 165/15. These questions go hand-in-hand. Now, ask yourself what "freeway flyer" is. You can pretty easily calculate the relationship for rpm vs. car speed - figure out what range is appropriate for you. Right now, my FASTback is 70mph at 3000rpm with 3.875:1 x 0.821:1 4th gear and 195/60/15 tires, but that may change soon. It needs a fifth gear badly... not necessarily a taller one, but one that allows the rest to be closer to one another. Then again, my engine is designed to shed a LOT more heat (T4 heads are bigger, and aluminum cylinders are a huge plus) much more easily than a stock 1600. Below ~4000-4500rpm, different rpm does change the cooling airflow... keep that in mind. > >Yes a glass pack muffler system will allow the engine > >to breathe, but consider this; the noise of the engine > >to your ears. I must confess it is a great choice you > >want to make and if their ever becomes a problem in > >your engine than you will certainly know. If fact > .many of your neighbors hear it as well. > > The last car I restored was a late > seventies Z-28 Camaro with a personally built 375hp > 350c.i.d. engine. It ran 2 chamber flowmasters and was > VERY loud when you put your foot into it ;) I like a > raspy sound, especially from VW's. As far as the > neighbors go, screw 'em. They play that damned hip-hop > crap at incredible volumes and bass, at all hours of > the night, so I rather hope they enjoy the "bark" of > my VW at 6:00am. Should do wonders for their hangovers ;)( I really need to get into a better part > of town :) LOL! :-) Also, think about intake noise... the sound of dual 2-bbl Webers on a VW is very nice, but on long, long distance trips, it gets old. By a pure stroke of luck, the FI system we developed is near silent at low throttle, but raspy and loud as can be at full throttle. Perfect! :-) > I've gotten MANY opinions on the > full flow filtering issue and have decided that if I > expect good longevity out of my engine, then it's the > way to go. Groovy. Take care, Shad Laws LN Engineering - Aircooled Precision Performance http://www.LNengineering.com ------------------------------------------------ To unsubscribe, E-mail to: <type3-off@vwtype3.org> For more help, see http://vwtype3.org/list/ </x-charset>