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Digest #397
1) Re: 914
by BOB2TYPE3S@aol.com
2) Removing heat exchangers
by jason.smith@sarcom.com
3) Re: 914
by "Dan Allum" <dan@nucoda.com>
4) Re: 1500 rebuild
by Scott Taylor <scottbtaylor@earthlink.net>
5) Re: Too many rear-enders
by "Steven Ayres" <comwest@att.net>
6) Re: was>Too many rear-enders - Rear Lighting
by Aaron Clow <volswaggen@yahoo.com>
7) Re: 1500 rebuild
by "Neil" <notchback@cableone.net>
8) 70 Square FI problem???
by "Larson Dean-Biehl" <alwyspoild@hotmail.com>
9) Re: was>Too many rear-enders - Rear Lighting
by Jim Adney <jadney@vwtype3.org>
10) Re: Removing heat exchangers
by Jim Adney <jadney@vwtype3.org>
11) Re: oil cooler puzzlement
by HBakr@aol.com
12) Re: was>Too many rear-enders - Rear Lighting
by Jim Adney <jadney@vwtype3.org>
13) Re: 1500 rebuild
by "Everett Barnes" <everettb@thesamba.com>
14) FI Problem Help?!?
by "Larson Dean-Biehl" <alwyspoild@hotmail.com>
15) late model rust
by willch@arches.uga.edu
16) Re: FI Problem Help?!?
by Jim Adney <jadney@vwtype3.org>
17) Re: oil cooler puzzlement
by Jim Adney <jadney@vwtype3.org>
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Date: Wed, 23 Oct 2002 08:13:48 EDT
From: BOB2TYPE3S@aol.com
Subject: Re: [T3] 914
Message-id: <4f.25aaf170.2ae7ec7c@aol.com>
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Jacob, you should go to http://www.shoptalkforums.com and then go=
to "the=20
type4rum" and then use the search function. You'll be very surprised =
at the=20
amount of results. You can also go to "the type3 forum" and use the =
search=20
function there also. There are several people on this list that are u=
sing the=20
type4 motor in their type3, also VW Trends is doing a multi month bui=
ld up of=20
a type4 motor to be placed in a type3. I hope this helps.
Bob 65 Notch S w/ Sunroof
69 Squareback-AT
--Boundary_(ID_Q8R/9NSUgnOnHl6aZY48Qg)
Date: Wed, 23 Oct 2002 08:17:10 -0400
From: jason.smith@sarcom.com
Subject: [T3] Removing heat exchangers
Message-id: <458FF3EDEA38D51185BE0008C7911E04048DA1A9@scolex02.sarcom.com>
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Hey all,
=09I have a muffler that has two damaged heat exchangers, the upper
ones that conntect to the engine. Is there a way to remove the excha=
ngers
=66rom the muffler without damaging the muffler? I am trying to arra=
nge to
get these to John J. for Sophy and we were wondering if these exchang=
ers can
be replaced with good ones.
Thanks,
Jason Smith
'72 Fastback FI AT
http://jasontsmith.tripod.com/vw.htm <http://jasontsmith.tripod.com/v=
w.htm>=20
--Boundary_(ID_Q8R/9NSUgnOnHl6aZY48Qg)
Date: Wed, 23 Oct 2002 13:38:18 +0100
From: "Dan Allum" <dan@nucoda.com>
Subject: Re: [T3] 914
Message-id: <NFBBKEPFGMOHPMGMCCCBMEEDDIAA.dan@nucoda.com>
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Hello Jacob,
=09Your best bet is to look at the Tunacan site:
http://www.tunacan.net/t4/
There's a section dedicated to the T4 into T3 conversion:
http://www.tunacan.net/t4/tech/type3.shtml
cheers,
Dan
'73 Fastback
http://www.danallum.com
----
-----Original Message-----
=46rom: Jacob [mailto:sixt7vdub@yahoo.com]
Sent: 23 October 2002 07:54
Subject: [T3] 914
how hard is it to put a 914 engine in a square? what kind of mods am=
i
looking at?
__________________________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
Y! Web Hosting - Let the expert host your web site
http://webhosting.yahoo.com/
--Boundary_(ID_Q8R/9NSUgnOnHl6aZY48Qg)
Date: Wed, 23 Oct 2002 07:18:46 -0700
From: Scott Taylor <scottbtaylor@earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: [T3] 1500 rebuild
Message-id: <3DB6AFC0.BF42F733@earthlink.net>
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>>Not sure if you've been to the store, but a few of the counter jock=
eys
are, well lets say, not the most knowledgeable!...That said, if you t=
alk
to Steve or Dave (I think) they are truly helpful and knowledgeable a=
nd
should be able to help you.<<
It's sad but true that Bill & Steve's isn't the Type 3 resource it us=
ed
to be. They still have a lot of original parts but sometimes the coun=
ter
guys don't know what they're selling. Steve is the most knowledgeable
and helpful one to speak to. Bill was really the Type 3 guy but in th=
e
last few years he has become less involved with the store. I think he
still works the counter occasionally.
Last time I was there they still had at least one NOS set of 1500S do=
med
pistons/cylinders, BTW.
Scott
62 343, 65 361
--Boundary_(ID_Q8R/9NSUgnOnHl6aZY48Qg)
Date: Wed, 23 Oct 2002 07:22:50 -0700
From: "Steven Ayres" <comwest@att.net>
Subject: Re: [T3] Too many rear-enders
Message-id: <00a201c27aa1$302eec20$e157530c@stevenay>
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AlanW=3D> I do use the front fogs on twisty country roads to light up=
the
sides.
And that's about all we have around here.
Steven Ayres, Prescott AZ
'66 KG1600
--Boundary_(ID_Q8R/9NSUgnOnHl6aZY48Qg)
Date: Wed, 23 Oct 2002 07:43:37 -0700 (PDT)
From: Aaron Clow <volswaggen@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [T3] was>Too many rear-enders - Rear Lighting
Message-id: <20021023144337.88953.qmail@web9304.mail.yahoo.com>
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--- Jim Adney <jadney@vwtype3.org> wrote:
> On 22 Oct 2002, at 13:41, CAD Man wrote:
> I believe that more than half of
> the light that comes out of the=20
> lights and streams to the rear is reflected off the
> reflector.=20
------snip--------
> A dull or corroded reflector makes a HUGE
> difference.
Just wondering if it makes enough of a difference that
it brings it up to other modern vehicles on the road?
Or could they still benefit from an "upgrade?" Since
this thread started, I've been observing
brakelights/taillights of other cars on the road. Last
night I saw an otherwise clean 70's mustang whose
lights were not dim enough that you thought they were
off, but it stood out like a sore thumb amongst all
the other brighter taillights.
Aaron
__________________________________________________
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--Boundary_(ID_Q8R/9NSUgnOnHl6aZY48Qg)
Date: Wed, 23 Oct 2002 08:53:20 -0600
From: "Neil" <notchback@cableone.net>
Subject: Re: [T3] 1500 rebuild
Message-id: <NKELKDCIGKBBMGKCODJCCEAGDKAA.notchback@cableone.net>
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I found my 1500 P&C's the first time I looked. Of course I just happe=
ned to
mention to a friend that I was looking for a set of domed 1500 piston=
s, and
he said he knew where one was. Two days later I had a complete set of=
NOS
K=F6lbenschmidt cylinders, wrist pins and domed pistons. All that wer=
e missing
were the rings. I later picked up three sets of NOS rings. Now that m=
y plans
have changed, these are all now available. They are the domed pistons=
so
they are correct for the 1500S engines.
Neil
-----Original Message-----
=46rom: Magnia, Martin [mailto:martin.magnia@adidasus.com]
Sent: Tuesday, October 22, 2002 3:48 PM
Subject: [T3] 1500 rebuild
Ok- subject...
So i am in the process of picking up a 63 notch with a 1500 single si=
de
draft carb.
I am contemplating tearing into the motor as soon as i get it home, h=
ere are
my questions..
Anyone know where i can find replacement P/C 's? these are 83mm corre=
ct? the
1600 is a 85 right ?
I called down to Bill and Steve's , and they had no idea what i was t=
alking
about , they said that all T3 motors used the 85mm (1600)P/C...come o=
n now
tell me this isn't true.
What are my options with this motor? if i do make a 1600/ 1641 out of=
it can
the single side draft work still? Or is it limited?
Does the case require machine work to get the larger P/C installed?
Or can i hone the cylinders and use a over sized ring set?
discuss among yourselves.
Martin Magnia
Footwear Buyer / Article Controller
Adidas America
E-mail Martin.Magnia@adidasus.com
--Boundary_(ID_Q8R/9NSUgnOnHl6aZY48Qg)
Date: Wed, 23 Oct 2002 08:00:03 -0700
From: "Larson Dean-Biehl" <alwyspoild@hotmail.com>
Subject: [T3] 70 Square FI problem???
Message-id: <OE493572EuyUNa0yYZd00003d5a@hotmail.com>
Content-type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1
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I am hoping you can help. I am want to purchase a 70 Square from a gu=
y in
Canada but it is having a problem. The following is what he said was
happening....
"When we unplugged the distributor and just turned the eng over, only=
one
cylinder filled full of fuel, which was the (looking at the eng from =
the
rear) left side first of the two cylinders. We undid all of the
injectors and they all fired in order and seemed to be working fine."
Another news group I posted to said that it may be a leaking sensor o=
r the
cold-start valve (where is that anyway?) Help!!
Thanks!!
Larson
(o\/o) Sunny 74 Autostick Super Beetle
[o\ /o] Amy 75 Bus Station Wagon
--Boundary_(ID_Q8R/9NSUgnOnHl6aZY48Qg)
Date: Wed, 23 Oct 2002 11:11:59 -0500
From: Jim Adney <jadney@vwtype3.org>
Subject: Re: [T3] was>Too many rear-enders - Rear Lighting
Message-id: <3DB683FF.21821.592E8CF@localhost>
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On 22 Oct 2002, at 20:22, Westfalia wrote:
> Doing this right now with my '66. The bulbs are still the original=
ones
> that say made in Germany (car was one owner 62K). Has not been driv=
en
> since early 80's so EVERYTHING is corroded and filthy!. The tail l=
ight
> bulbs get very dirty thanks to the drain opening at the bottom of t=
he
> lens. Thank god for the Dremel. =20
Don't use the Dremel on the reflector. I'm afraid it might polish thi=
ngs up but=20
remove the hard chrome layer and after that the corrosion would happe=
n=20
quickly. I'd use a chrome/metal polish of some kind.
> Bob (Wire Works) the wiring guy suggested I use "Tarnex" or somethi=
ng
> like it as a brush on cleaner. Anybody else have suggestions for
> cleaning contacts/terminals that have lots of corrosion but you can=
't
> get a wire brush to??
For bulb contacts I use a dental tool that I can reach in there and s=
crape the=20
stuff off. This is tedious but it works. Once they are clean I put so=
me grease=20
on all the parts that contact the bulb. This will prevent further cor=
rosion and=20
keep the bulb from freezing in there. Keep the grease off the glass, =
though.=20
The heat there can cause the grease to darken and reduce the light ou=
tput.
-
Jim Adney
jadney@vwtype3.org
Madison, WI 53711-3054
USA
--Boundary_(ID_Q8R/9NSUgnOnHl6aZY48Qg)
Date: Wed, 23 Oct 2002 11:11:59 -0500
From: Jim Adney <jadney@vwtype3.org>
Subject: Re: [T3] Removing heat exchangers
Message-id: <3DB683FF.1384.592E89D@localhost>
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On 23 Oct 2002, at 8:17, jason.smith@sarcom.com wrote:
> I have a muffler that has two damaged heat exchangers, the upper o=
nes
> that conntect to the engine. Is there a way to remove the exchange=
rs
> from the muffler without damaging the muffler? =20
I usually find that I can't get them apart without destroying the=
=20
muffler.=20
What's wrong with them? In general my advice would be to just use=
=20
them until the muffler is shot, then replace everything. Duct tape=
=20
might work well here. ;-)
-
Jim Adney
jadney@vwtype3.org
Madison, WI 53711-3054
USA
--Boundary_(ID_Q8R/9NSUgnOnHl6aZY48Qg)
Date: Wed, 23 Oct 2002 12:17:39 -0400
From: HBakr@aol.com
Subject: Re: [T3] oil cooler puzzlement
Message-id: <60E444A1.1683BBAE.0000DC04@aol.com>
Content-type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1
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In a message dated 10/22/2002 7:09:45 PM Eastern Standard Time, jadne=
y@vwtype3.org writes:
> Did you ever check the fan/pulley bolt to see if it was=20
> tight enough? I don't=20
> really think this is likely to be the problem
Me neither, but at this point I am desparate. On the check list I hav=
e so far; a) fan bolt, b) pressure control valve, c) put in a differe=
nt oil cooler and see.
If all that fails, then I guess I'll have to drop the motor and check=
for end play, a hassle I really don't need.
Could standing the motor on end (fan end) have caused a shift in the =
crank shaft position? I had to do this in order to the center the clu=
tch.
thanks for any thoughts
hisham
70 sq
--Boundary_(ID_Q8R/9NSUgnOnHl6aZY48Qg)
Date: Wed, 23 Oct 2002 11:33:04 -0500
From: Jim Adney <jadney@vwtype3.org>
Subject: Re: [T3] was>Too many rear-enders - Rear Lighting
Message-id: <3DB688F0.18767.5A6356E@localhost>
Content-type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII
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On 23 Oct 2002, at 7:43, Aaron Clow wrote:
> Just wondering if it makes enough of a difference that
> it brings it up to other modern vehicles on the road?
> Or could they still benefit from an "upgrade?"=20
Certainly modern cars have brighter taillights, but I think the best =
thing to do=20
would be to just try to keep our cars at the level they were delivere=
d with.=20
There are lots of things that conspire to reduce the light output: lo=
w system=20
voltage, poor grounds (before 69,) old darkened bulbs, corroded refle=
ctors,=20
dirty lenses, and bad connections.
Most of these problems have simple solutions that don't require upgra=
des to=20
fix, just maintenance.
-
Jim Adney
jadney@vwtype3.org
Madison, WI 53711-3054
USA
--Boundary_(ID_Q8R/9NSUgnOnHl6aZY48Qg)
Date: Wed, 23 Oct 2002 10:10:33 -0700
From: "Everett Barnes" <everettb@thesamba.com>
Subject: Re: [T3] 1500 rebuild
Message-id: <3DAB0A130000A6F3@mta08.san.yahoo.com>
Content-type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1
Content-transfer-encoding: QUOTED-PRINTABLE
>It's sad but true that Bill & Steve's isn't the Type 3 resource it u=
sed
to be. They still have a lot of original parts but sometimes the coun=
ter
guys don't know what they're selling. Steve is the most knowledgeable=
and
helpful one to speak to. Bill was really the Type 3 guy but in the la=
st
few years he has become less involved with the store. I think he stil=
l works
the counter occasionally.
>
I talked to Steve last week on the phone - he knew his stuff. I was =
there
last weekend but Bill didn't seem to want to help out or have the ans=
wers..
Someone else helped me but I didn't get his name, he was fairly know=
ledgeable.
They still have a lot of parts available, you just have to know what =
to
ask for and get someone who knows they have it and where it is.
For used parts, you have to be there in person as they won't send the=
m out
without you accepting them visually.
--
Everett Barnes
everettb@thesamba.com
Phoenix, AZ
--Boundary_(ID_Q8R/9NSUgnOnHl6aZY48Qg)
Date: Wed, 23 Oct 2002 10:55:47 -0700
From: "Larson Dean-Biehl" <alwyspoild@hotmail.com>
Subject: [T3] FI Problem Help?!?
Message-id: <OE19jM1wrv0BFF53wYi00003e97@hotmail.com>
Content-type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1
Content-transfer-encoding: QUOTED-PRINTABLE
I am hoping you can help. I am want to purchase a 70 Square from a gu=
y in
Canada but it is having a problem. The following is what he said was
happening....
"When we unplugged the distributor and just turned the eng over, only=
one
cylinder filled full of fuel, which was the (looking at the eng from =
the
rear) left side first of the two cylinders. We undid all of the
injectors and they all fired in order and seemed to be working fine."
So sounds like it is the # 2 cylinder .Another news group I posted to=
said
that it may be a leaking sensor or the cold-start valve (where is tha=
t
anyway?) Help!!
Thanks!!
Larson
(o\/o) Sunny 74 Autostick Super Beetle
[o\ /o] Amy 75 Bus Station Wagon
--Boundary_(ID_Q8R/9NSUgnOnHl6aZY48Qg)
Date: Wed, 23 Oct 2002 14:05:13 -0500
From: willch@arches.uga.edu
Subject: [T3] late model rust
Message-id: <1035396313.smmsdV1.1.2@mail.arches.uga.edu>
Content-type: TEXT/PLAIN
Content-transfer-encoding: QUOTED-PRINTABLE
my '73 fastback has the usual rust in the rear pillars around the air=
=20
vents. the rust has spread so much that the metal drain tubes inside=
=20
have huge holes in them. i am afraid that the whole pillars from the =
top=20
corner of the rear window to the bottom corner of the rear window nee=
d=20
to be replaced on both sides as the rust has spread like cancer=20
throughout. is it possible to replace these pillars with clean ones o=
r=20
is it impossible because nothing will be supporting the roof after th=
e=20
pillars are cut out?=20
--Boundary_(ID_Q8R/9NSUgnOnHl6aZY48Qg)
Date: Wed, 23 Oct 2002 13:25:27 -0500
From: Jim Adney <jadney@vwtype3.org>
Subject: Re: [T3] FI Problem Help?!?
Message-id: <3DB6A347.1440.60D1852@localhost>
Content-type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII
Content-transfer-encoding: QUOTED-PRINTABLE
On 23 Oct 2002, at 10:55, Larson Dean-Biehl wrote:
> "When we unplugged the distributor and just turned the eng over, on=
ly one
> cylinder filled full of fuel, which was the (looking at the eng fro=
m the
> rear) left side first of the two cylinders. We undid all of t=
he
> injectors and they all fired in order and seemed to be working fine=
.."
Is the problem that one or more cylinders COMPLETELY fill up with gas=
?=20
This really isn't possible unless something is left on while the engi=
ne isn't=20
running.
> So sounds like it is the # 2 cylinder .Another news group I posted =
to said
> that it may be a leaking sensor or the cold-start valve (where is t=
hat
> anyway?)
The left cylinders and 3 & 4 (F & R.) Running rich could be caused by=
a bad=20
sensor or a stuck CSV (it's under the right side of the intake air di=
stributor,)=20
but the most common cause, by far, is a bad voltage regulator which i=
s=20
keeping the system voltage too low.
It sounds like the people selling the car don't understand the FI eit=
her. To be=20
more help, we really need a better description of the problem. If you=
tell us=20
where the car is, there might be someone nearby who could take a look=
at it.
-
Jim Adney
jadney@vwtype3.org
Madison, WI 53711-3054
USA
--Boundary_(ID_Q8R/9NSUgnOnHl6aZY48Qg)
Date: Wed, 23 Oct 2002 13:31:09 -0500
From: Jim Adney <jadney@vwtype3.org>
Subject: Re: [T3] oil cooler puzzlement
Message-id: <3DB6A49D.631.6125238@localhost>
Content-type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII
Content-transfer-encoding: QUOTED-PRINTABLE
On 23 Oct 2002, at 12:17, HBakr@aol.com wrote:
> Could standing the motor on end (fan end) have caused a shift in th=
e crank
> shaft position? I had to do this in order to the center the clutch.=
=20
If you tilted the engine up on its tail, then a lot of oil probably d=
rained out of=20
the engine and collected in the fan housing. There is a drain in the =
bottom of=20
the fan housing, but it is always clogged up by this time. Get under =
the car=20
with a drain can to catch the oil, and poke a stick up this hole to c=
lear it. The=20
hole is at the seam between fan housing halves and is about 3/16" dia=
meter.=20
I think you're just stirring up the oil that has collected there. You=
can drain=20
the lion's share, but this is probably pretty messy and will drip for=
a long time.
This is all just due to the fact that there is no seal back there.
-
Jim Adney
jadney@vwtype3.org
Madison, WI 53711-3054
USA
--Boundary_(ID_Q8R/9NSUgnOnHl6aZY48Qg)--
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