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Digest #395
1) 1500 rebuild
by "Magnia, Martin" <martin.magnia@adidasus.com>
2) Re: oil cooler puzzlement
by Jim Adney <jadney@vwtype3.org>
3) Re: Site updated again
by Nathan Jacobsen <jacobsen4@attbi.com>
4) Re: 1500 rebuild
by Nathan Jacobsen <jacobsen4@attbi.com>
5) generator bearings
by Russ wolfe <russella@prairieinet.net>
6) Re: generator bearings
by John Jaranson <jaransonT3@comcast.net>
7) Re: generator bearings
by Russ wolfe <russella@prairieinet.net>
8) Re: '63 Squareback fixed
by Jim Adney <jadney@vwtype3.org>
9) Re: was>Too many rear-enders - Rear Lighting
by Jim Adney <jadney@vwtype3.org>
10) Re: 1500 rebuild
by Jim Adney <jadney@vwtype3.org>
11) Re: oil cooler puzzlement
by Jim Adney <jadney@vwtype3.org>
12) Re: Texas
by "Chuck" <chuck.holdren@verizon.net>
13) Re: 1500 rebuild
by Hal Sullivan <tristessa@pon.net>
14) Re: 1500 rebuild
by Russ wolfe <russella@prairieinet.net>
15) Re: was>Too many rear-enders - Rear Lighting
by Westfalia <swharris@adelphia.net>
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--Boundary_(ID_GWwKQHX5u1WDQQ8mUdXHZQ)
Date: Tue, 22 Oct 2002 17:47:56 -0400
From: "Magnia, Martin" <martin.magnia@adidasus.com>
Subject: [T3] 1500 rebuild
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Ok- subject...
So i am in the process of picking up a 63 notch with a 1500 single side
draft carb.
I am contemplating tearing into the motor as soon as i get it home, here are
my questions..
Anyone know where i can find replacement P/C 's? these are 83mm correct? the
1600 is a 85 right ?
I called down to Bill and Steve's , and they had no idea what i was talking
about , they said that all T3 motors used the 85mm (1600)P/C...come on now
tell me this isn't true.
What are my options with this motor? if i do make a 1600/ 1641 out of it can
the single side draft work still? Or is it limited?
Does the case require machine work to get the larger P/C installed?
Or can i hone the cylinders and use a over sized ring set?
discuss among yourselves.
Martin Magnia
Footwear Buyer / Article Controller
Adidas America
E-mail Martin.Magnia@adidasus.com
--Boundary_(ID_GWwKQHX5u1WDQQ8mUdXHZQ)
Date: Tue, 22 Oct 2002 18:09:45 -0600
From: Jim Adney <jadney@vwtype3.org>
Subject: Re: [T3] oil cooler puzzlement
Message-id: <3DB59469.19610.997FE@localhost>
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On 21 Oct 2002, at 20:27, HBakr@aol.com wrote:
> Interestingly enough, my neighbor hooked me up on the phone with a work
> colleague who "builds vw engines". The conversation was very educational, as
> when I mentioned to him that the only thing I did was replace the oil cooler
> seals and the pressure plate. He said, I'll bet you installed a wrong
> pressure plate that is a bit higher than the original one. This could cause
> the end play to go in one direction towards the rear and thereby slacken the
> rear engine oil seal/washer and causing the leak. I must say That I never
> considered this possiblity. I also know that my pressure plate and throw out
> bearing did not look anything like the ones shown in Bentley. What do you
> all think of the plausibility of this theory.
Just changing the pressure plate won't change the end play, but it is
possible that installing a "high performance" pressure plate could cause
excess wear on the thrust bearing and increase the end play. I would not
expect that to happen right away, however.
There is no rear oil seal in our engines.
Did you ever check the fan/pulley bolt to see if it was tight enough? I don't
really think this is likely to be the problem, but a loose bolt there might
cause a leak.
-
*******************************
Jim Adney, jadney@vwtype3.org
Madison, Wisconsin, USA
*******************************
--Boundary_(ID_GWwKQHX5u1WDQQ8mUdXHZQ)
Date: Tue, 22 Oct 2002 16:55:56 -0700 (Pacific Daylight Time)
From: Nathan Jacobsen <jacobsen4@attbi.com>
Subject: Re: [T3] Site updated again
Message-id: <Pine.WNT.4.44.0210221654470.708-100000@thebeast>
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>
> For anyone interested, you can quite clearly see the special parts of a
> carbed engine with automatic transmission, like the
> carb linkage with kick-down switch. One of the ball joints
> obviously broke sometime in the past and it was drilled and then fitted with
> a bolt. You can also see the funky automatic carb balance pipe, with a third
> hose on the right that goes down to the tranny.
I looked at your photos, and try as I might was unable to locate the
kickdown switch / carb linkage setup you've described. I'm curious about
how it's setup, do you have a closeup of it?
---
Nathan
'62 Notch
'57 Bug
---
--Boundary_(ID_GWwKQHX5u1WDQQ8mUdXHZQ)
Date: Tue, 22 Oct 2002 17:02:58 -0700 (Pacific Daylight Time)
From: Nathan Jacobsen <jacobsen4@attbi.com>
Subject: Re: [T3] 1500 rebuild
Message-id: <Pine.WNT.4.44.0210221656280.708-100000@thebeast>
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>
> Anyone know where i can find replacement P/C 's? these are 83mm correct? the
> 1600 is a 85 right ?
You can still find the 83mm P/C's. Just a few days ago I saw some on
either ebay or samba, don't remember which. It took me about six weeks of
looking for mine, but finally found someone with a nice German set that
didn't cost a lot. Place an online ad in the "wanted" section and
you might get faster results finding some.
My feeling is that you should stick to the 83's and all the other stock
components if you are going to run the stock sidedraft carburator, unless
you can find someone that will help you properly jet the carb. You may get
lucky and everything works fine with 85's, but the more you stick to the
original plan the better your chances of success for a smooth running
engine.
---
Nathan
'62 Notch
'57 Bug
---
--Boundary_(ID_GWwKQHX5u1WDQQ8mUdXHZQ)
Date: 22 Oct 2002 19:10:15 -0500
From: Russ wolfe <russella@prairieinet.net>
Subject: [T3] generator bearings
Message-id: <1035331815.550.18.camel@charliebrown>
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Well, the last couple days, I was forced to drive the '71 FB in cold
weather. (The heater/defroster doesn't work). The water pump went out on
my truck.
I noticed tonight that the generator bearings are making noise when
cold. I think I should be planning on replacing them.
Does anyone have the generic bearing number for the generator bearings.
(like 6202)
I don't want to tear it down before I have the bearings.
--
Russ Wolfe
'66 FB MT (It drove)
'71 FB AT
'65 Bug (not running)
russw@classicvw.org
http://www.classicvw.org
--Boundary_(ID_GWwKQHX5u1WDQQ8mUdXHZQ)
Date: Tue, 22 Oct 2002 20:20:25 -0400
From: John Jaranson <jaransonT3@comcast.net>
Subject: Re: [T3] generator bearings
Message-id: <0H4E001LORLKTI@mtaout01.icomcast.net>
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>Does anyone have the generic bearing number for the generator bearings.
>(like 6202)
Good guess Russ. When I put new bearings in Sophy's generator (6V) I bought
NTN bearings, part number 6202LLBC3/5C. These were a sealed bearing.
Worked great.
Don't know if the 6V are the same as 12V though.
Later,
John Jaranson
'71 FI AT Fasty (Jane)
'66 Square (Sophy)
About Half a Late Square (Organ Donor)
http://mywebpages.comcast.net/jaransonT3/jaransonT3/
--Boundary_(ID_GWwKQHX5u1WDQQ8mUdXHZQ)
Date: 22 Oct 2002 19:44:41 -0500
From: Russ wolfe <russella@prairieinet.net>
Subject: Re: [T3] generator bearings
Message-id: <1035333881.725.21.camel@charliebrown>
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On Tue, 2002-10-22 at 19:20, John Jaranson wrote:
>
> >Does anyone have the generic bearing number for the generator bearings.
> >(like 6202)
>
>
> Good guess Russ. When I put new bearings in Sophy's generator (6V) I bought
> NTN bearings, part number 6202LLBC3/5C. These were a sealed bearing.
> Worked great.
>
> Don't know if the 6V are the same as 12V though.
>
The long term memory is OK, It is the short term that is going. :=)
That number just popped into my head.
--
Russ Wolfe
'66 FB MT (It drove)
'71 FB AT
'65 Bug (not running)
russw@classicvw.org
http://www.classicvw.org
--Boundary_(ID_GWwKQHX5u1WDQQ8mUdXHZQ)
Date: Tue, 22 Oct 2002 20:41:59 -0600
From: Jim Adney <jadney@vwtype3.org>
Subject: Re: [T3] '63 Squareback fixed
Message-id: <3DB5B817.7762.94F74D@localhost>
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On 22 Oct 2002, at 8:12, Everett Barnes wrote:
> I'm sure it is a heavier bolt, Grade 8. It goes through the wheel cylinder,
> then through the backing plate, through the entire spindle, and sticks out
> quite far. One of the reasons I want an original bolt is that you cannot
> purchase a bolt with a head that takes a 15 mm socket anymore either.
I believe the current DIN standard M10 bolt still has a 15mm head. The JIS
standard is probably 14mm.
> >Does this bolt pass thru the steering arm on the backside of the backing
> plate?
> >
> Yes. It actually sticks out quite far too, the bolt could be 2/3rds of
> its length and work fine. I have no idea why such a long bolt was used.
If I have the right bolt, the microfilm shows this with the head on the inside
(steering arm side.) It appears to show that each car should have four (N 010
072 1) M10 x 1 x 28 bolts, two (311 405 343) M10 x 1 x 52 bolts and two
other bolts which varied in length according to the year. Up thru 65 this was
311 405 341, which was an M10 x 1 x 62. After that, it was 311 405 343B,
an M10 x 1 x 42.
Check with VW. You might get lucky. I'll try to check my basement, too.
-
*******************************
Jim Adney, jadney@vwtype3.org
Madison, Wisconsin, USA
*******************************
--Boundary_(ID_GWwKQHX5u1WDQQ8mUdXHZQ)
Date: Tue, 22 Oct 2002 20:41:59 -0600
From: Jim Adney <jadney@vwtype3.org>
Subject: Re: [T3] was>Too many rear-enders - Rear Lighting
Message-id: <3DB5B817.14250.94F761@localhost>
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On 22 Oct 2002, at 13:41, CAD Man wrote:
> You would not believe how much more light pours out when there's
> good contact AND all these reflective surfaces are....well, reflective.
I'll second this. I believe that more than half of the light that comes out of the
lights and streams to the rear is reflected off the reflector. If this part of your
taillight assemby is corroded the brightness will go down by MUCH MORE
than half. The reason this is true is that the reflector is shaped to direct all
the light that hits it toward the rear, while the light that doesn't hit the
reflector streams out in all directions, basically undirected.
A dull or corroded reflector makes a HUGE difference.
I once had a friend who had a car with a single Lucas replacable bulb
headlight. I think it was actually one of the Lucas Flamethrowers. I thought it
must be cool, and it clearly worked okay because I had checked it out in the
daylight and it looked okay to me. Somewhat later he was driving behind me
and I noticed that the Lucas lamp seemed to be almost dead. Upon
examination I discovered that the bulb was fine, but the reflector was totally
shot. Good bulb or not, that headlight was worthless.
That was my first real lesson in the value of sealed beams, where the
reflective coating is sealed away from the weather and won't ever go dull on
you.
-
*******************************
Jim Adney, jadney@vwtype3.org
Madison, Wisconsin, USA
*******************************
--Boundary_(ID_GWwKQHX5u1WDQQ8mUdXHZQ)
Date: Tue, 22 Oct 2002 20:41:59 -0600
From: Jim Adney <jadney@vwtype3.org>
Subject: Re: [T3] 1500 rebuild
Message-id: <3DB5B817.19509.94F757@localhost>
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On 22 Oct 2002, at 17:47, Magnia, Martin wrote:
> Anyone know where i can find replacement P/C 's? these are 83mm correct? the
> 1600 is a 85 right ?
1500 was 83mm, 1600 is 85.5mm. The 83s are getting pretty rare, because
the 85.5s are a drop-in replacement, meaning no machining in either the
head or the case.
> I called down to Bill and Steve's , and they had no idea what i was talking
> about , they said that all T3 motors used the 85mm (1600)P/C...come on now
> tell me this isn't true.
That probably means that they just sell 85.5s to everyone, and that is
probably all they can buy from their suppliers. I've seen a few sets of 83s on
ebay, and I may have a set of rings here, but I think the only 83s you will find
these days are NOS.
> What are my options with this motor? if i do make a 1600/ 1641 out of it can
> the single side draft work still?
It should work fine as a 1600, but the compression ratio will probably change
and you will probably "get" to re-jet your carb.
> Or can i hone the cylinders and use a over sized ring set?
This is difficult, and you would need OS pistons, too. I doubt that you would
find 83.5mm pistons anywhere.
-
*******************************
Jim Adney, jadney@vwtype3.org
Madison, Wisconsin, USA
*******************************
--Boundary_(ID_GWwKQHX5u1WDQQ8mUdXHZQ)
Date: Tue, 22 Oct 2002 20:41:59 -0600
From: Jim Adney <jadney@vwtype3.org>
Subject: Re: [T3] oil cooler puzzlement
Message-id: <3DB5B817.30073.94F743@localhost>
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On 23 Oct 2002, at 7:08, Ben Doughney wrote:
> on 23/10/2002 3:09 AM, Jim Adney at jadney@vwtype3.org wrote:
>
> > Installing it wrong may let
> > more oil mist out with the breather gasses, but will not block off the
> > breather
> > in any way.
>
> I thought it can fill up with oil and can temporarily block things off?
The oil can still drain back, even with it installed upside down. I think you
would have a hard time getting it "filled" with oil, but I suppose anything's
possible.
-
*******************************
Jim Adney, jadney@vwtype3.org
Madison, Wisconsin, USA
*******************************
--Boundary_(ID_GWwKQHX5u1WDQQ8mUdXHZQ)
Date: Tue, 22 Oct 2002 18:51:15 -0700
From: "Chuck" <chuck.holdren@verizon.net>
Subject: Re: [T3] Texas
Message-id: <000401c27a36$afc4d410$41342e04@computer>
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http://www.aircoolers.org/gallery/05-17-02/104_0500_IMG
Now that's a dog, mmmm mmmm gotta go eat now
-----Original Message-----
From: type3@vwtype3.org [mailto:type3@vwtype3.org] On Behalf Of Richard
Green
Sent: Monday, October 21, 2002 7:44 PM
To: type3@vwtype3.org
Subject: Re: [T3] Texas
The VOSA (volkswagen owners of San Antiono just had their Octoberfest in
the Town of Boerne just north of SA, kind of a light turnout because of
all the rain we have been having. Only one type 3, a nice white 3 69
fastback automatic (not mine) It was on the "town square" on the grass
but it was more mud than grass 8=) Turned out to be a very nice day.. I
wish some folks were not afraid of a little rain...
Actualy more watercars than air cars... Sorry but I was in my Syncro
Vanagon....
I have heard that the Austin area is getting more active again. A few
Type3 in Houston... Big Al
Me I am in the middle of no where.... Work, Hand sugery and my Son's
wedding next month have kept me from doing anything but reading the
"list:..
Wuzmop@aol.com wrote:
>
> Jason, check out www.aircoolers.org. We are in Austin Dallas Baton
> Rouge and houston. Some members are in the San Antonio area as well.
> I'm in Dallas. Good luck on the move. Robb
--
Richard (PapaG) Green
New Ulm, Texas
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--Boundary_(ID_GWwKQHX5u1WDQQ8mUdXHZQ)
Date: Tue, 22 Oct 2002 19:17:21 -0700
From: Hal Sullivan <tristessa@pon.net>
Subject: Re: [T3] 1500 rebuild
Message-id: <72993ED0YSQ843XRDBJEIG2YAYT.3db606b1@lucretia>
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10/22/2002 2:47:56 PM, "Magnia, Martin" <martin.magnia@adidasus.com> wrote:
>Anyone know where i can find replacement P/C 's? these are 83mm correct? the
>1600 is a 85 right ?
1600 is 85.5, 1500 is 83 ... but you're basically right. =)
>I called down to Bill and Steve's , and they had no idea what i was talking
>about , they said that all T3 motors used the 85mm (1600)P/C...come on now
>tell me this isn't true.
There was a 1500 T3. What they told you at B&S is full of BS ... I wonder if
you got ahold of a rookie answering the phone when you called. =)
>What are my options with this motor? if i do make a 1600/ 1641 out of it can
>the single side draft work still? Or is it limited?
>Does the case require machine work to get the larger P/C installed?
I Am Not An Expert, but I'd imagine that the biggest limiting factor is going
to be the manifold and singleport heads. Heck, the T1 1600 singleport was fed
with a 30PICT carb. =) The 85.5 barrels will fit the heads&case without any
machining ... and honestly, unless you're worried about absolute 100% authenticity,
I'd say just go for the 85.5 bore. The only people who'll know the difference are
1) you, 2) anyone you tell, and 3) whoever tears down the engine next.
>Or can i hone the cylinders and use a over sized ring set?
I think you'll have an easier time finding 83mm P/Cs than oversized rings. =)
--Boundary_(ID_GWwKQHX5u1WDQQ8mUdXHZQ)
Date: 22 Oct 2002 21:46:42 -0500
From: Russ wolfe <russella@prairieinet.net>
Subject: Re: [T3] 1500 rebuild
Message-id: <1035341202.549.31.camel@charliebrown>
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On Tue, 2002-10-22 at 16:47, Magnia, Martin wrote:
> Ok- subject...
>
> So i am in the process of picking up a 63 notch with a 1500 single side
> draft carb.
>
> I am contemplating tearing into the motor as soon as i get it home, here are
> my questions..
>
> Anyone know where i can find replacement P/C 's? these are 83mm correct? the
> 1600 is a 85 right ?
> I called down to Bill and Steve's , and they had no idea what i was talking
> about , they said that all T3 motors used the 85mm (1600)P/C...come on now
> tell me this isn't true.
>
> What are my options with this motor? if i do make a 1600/ 1641 out of it can
> the single side draft work still? Or is it limited?
> Does the case require machine work to get the larger P/C installed?
>
> Or can i hone the cylinders and use a over sized ring set?
>
Actually, they were 82.95mm bore, for a 1500cc engine, and 85.45 for a
1600cc. The 1500's should still be available.
One thing to remember, is your case was designed for the 1500. If you go
to 1600, be sure to insert the head studs. They won't hold in that older
case.
--
Russ Wolfe
'66 FB MT (It drove)
'71 FB AT
'65 Bug (not running)
russw@classicvw.org
http://www.classicvw.org
--Boundary_(ID_GWwKQHX5u1WDQQ8mUdXHZQ)
Date: Tue, 22 Oct 2002 20:22:44 -0700
From: Westfalia <swharris@adelphia.net>
Subject: Re: [T3] was>Too many rear-enders - Rear Lighting
Message-id: <3DB6157B.18551917@adelphia.net>
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CAD Man wrote:
1) Our relatively "weak" brake/rear lighting has been brought to light
> (sorry, couldn't resist) here and I must say for anyone, especially those of
> us still running an aging 6v electrical system, maybe it's time to think
> about some maintenance?! I was guilty of this until recently myself, my
> lights could be barely seen either parking lights or brake lights. I took
> my rear lenses off (to replace them) and discovered unknown years worth of
> crud caked both on my bulbs, the reflectors and the lens, not to mention the
> contacts. You would not believe how much more light pours out when there's
> good contact AND all these reflective surfaces are....well, reflective.
>
Doing this right now with my '66. The bulbs are still the original ones
that say made in Germany (car was one owner 62K). Has not been driven
since early 80's so EVERYTHING is corroded and filthy!. The tail light
bulbs get very dirty thanks to the drain opening at the bottom of the
lens. Thank god for the Dremel.
Bob (Wire Works) the wiring guy suggested I use "Tarnex" or something
like it as a brush on cleaner. Anybody else have suggestions for
cleaning contacts/terminals that have lots of corrosion but you can't
get a wire brush to?? BTW contact cleaner will not cut it, I've tried.
Steve
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