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Re: [T3] exhaust nuts and studs


On Tue, 2002-05-07 at 20:22, joemevans wrote:
> Hi All
> 
> I just took the engine out of the 73 square I bought last sat so I can put
> it in my 71 fasty. I noticed that the muffler has been changed to one of
> those half header systems that still use the heater boxes. The Heater boxes
> are rusted through. Since my old motor d a good T3 muffler and new heater
> boxes I decided to change them. I am affraid to try at the nuts/studs
> because they are rusted badly. Is their a secret to not let the studs break
> or to get them out easily? I have heard to apply heat but I am not sure if I
> apply heat to the stud or the aluminum head, or how much heat to apply. An
> how do I get out a broken stud when one does break?  I do not want to
> dismantle this engine I just want a running car.
> 
If you are lucky, you might have some original factory type nuts on
there. They were a mild steel nut with a stainless heli-coil in it. If
you can see that they are coming hard, DON'T BREAK A STUD. Instead,
apply heat as already mentioned by others. If that doesnt want to work,
a cold chisel applied parallel to the stud and partially split the nut.
Use a 6 point wrench, not a 12 point. 6 points grip better. Orginal nut
is 13mm, but for a rusted nut try a 6 point 1/2" wrench. It is just
slightly smaller. If needed, try a 12mm.
Good luck.

-- 
Russ Wolfe
'66 FB MT (It drove)
'71 FB AT 
'65 Bug (not running)
russw@classicvw.org
http://www.classicvw.org


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