[Date Prev][Date Next][Thread Prev][Thread Next][Date Index][Thread Index] [New Search]

Re: [T3]which heads


<x-charset iso-8859-1>Brian Schlepp wrote :
I need a recommendation for heads (Leon: how are those MoFoCo doing?) 041
vs. 044 vs. ??. 
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
--------------------------------
I have not broken the heads yet, I drive about 3000 miles per month for the
last 
6 months so I assume I have driven around 18000 miles .

My Odometer broke so I have no mechanical record of my engine's miles since 
my rebuild, this is my third Speedometer and this was NOS, these all had
odometer problems, could it be too much speed ? Will fix it later

Back to the heads, compression still good at 118 PSI  exactly all around,
according to my
2 temp sensors, they do seem a little cooler than the stock heads, the 3/4
inch plug 
reach seem to have heldup and not cracked under daily 90 mph and max of 410
degrees
uphill lugging on cylinders 3 and 4 . Heads are cool at a long border wait
of 
2 hours (at 260 degrees) while I see the water cooled cars overheat and
spill water all over the 
place, even new cars. Heads are cool enough that the typical golden color
under the valve covers is not present, still looks new. I have 042's with
3/4
long reach plugs. I am so far satisfied with the heads until cracking
melting
will eventually take place, knock on wood .

My engine:

My engine runs very good but ever since I switched to hydraulic tappets and
a 'stock'
hydraulic cam, my car does not jump to quick signal lite take offs like it
used too.
I think the cam is not really all that stock and has a little upper midrange
power,
low end is ok.
My engine has an automatic tranny that requires low end power to take off
good.
I hit 90 mph easily though.

My ignition, I think is acting up  above 75 mph , I can barely feel a miss
and loss
of power eventhough reaching 90 is not a problem. My wires are covered with 
a coating of black soot like as if a high voltage corona is present, maybe
this is caused 
by too much voltage from my hot coil/open electrode combination, there are
little 
blemish spots on my wires , I think I need new wires dist cap and rotor, it
is 
possible the the resistor in my rotor burned up under too much current.
This is just a slight problem to be corrected this weekend.

My Gen light turned on yesterday and it took me 10 minutes to change the 
brushes that I stored in my glovebox. Easier that fixing or replacing an
alternator
for sure , thank God.

My Bugpack muffler/extractor  that I bought a year ago just fell apart from
several 
places, I decided not to frankenweld it again. I put in the
muffler/extractor from a free 
engine I got in LA . This was made by Thunderbird very, very nice quality,
big heavy tubes
with a full size header gasket, it looks kickass and it even fit behind the
skirt, one problem though,
It fit my free engine but it did not fit my car's engine , now I know ALL OF
OUR ENGINES 
ARE OF A DIFFERENT WIDTH DEPENDING ON DISPLACEMENT OR WEAR.
I had to go to my local Tijuana mufller shop that heated and custom bend the
setup 
right on my car for 15 bucks (they thought they gouged me). While there for
the same price,
I had them weld one of those glasspack mufller tips  , looks nice.

This setup had so much corrosion from being outside for years in someone's
backyard that 
rust and scales poured out . The black paint is now burning off. I hope it
lasts, my next 
new setup may be from Kymco or Thunderbird .

The sound:   very quiet compared  to anything I ever had, it just purrs no
more roaring, I like that, I 
can now speak using normal volume inside the car, got to attack the high
pitch wizzz around my
front quarter windows.

Sorry for rambling have lots to ramble about but do not wish to bore anyone
.

LEON MARTINEZ

1969 SQUAREBACK EFI/AUTO
1967 FASTBACK PROJECT

SAN DIEGO AND TIJUANA






</x-charset>

[Date Prev][Date Next][Thread Prev][Thread Next][Date Index][Thread Index] [New Search]