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<x-charset iso-8859-1>Keith wrote :
I didnt think the hydraulic cam would last this long but Keep going Leon!
this is interesting. And get that ODO fixed... so you can document your
results with actual numbers.
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Fastlane all the way. I have averaged between 37,000 a year to as much as
55,000
miles I had big engined cars (5 to 8 liter eng) and the gas $$ was killing
me.
I assumed I can drive just as hard when I drove the muscle engines.
I have been driving on the same route for years so my estimated
mileage is pretty accurate. The places I go through is heavy city traffic
in Mexico with very steep inclines and on the USA side , several
different freeways with various inclines and good lugging areas; The border
wait area gives the engine long idles (15 min to 2 hours) with sudden
take offs to prevent evil folks from suddenly cutting in , sometimes there
is
lots of sweet clutch smell from other cars , (varoooom!, stop,Idle, idle,
idle, varoooom!
stop etc...) that is the way it sounds, thank god my car is an auto. My
other T-3 ,Fasty,
has a stick.
I am not the only T-3 , one is a beat up Square with two burly fellows, car
is loaded up with
construction equipment and buckets, the other one is a lowered metallic
brown Notch
with aluminum rims, I have seen these cars cross the border for years.
This is not a test of the car, I just like to drive it instead of my Volvo,
so wife uses it .
So far, the Hydrualic lifters have lasted and are still quiet, these lifters
are not new
but are used regrinds, I had to take them apart to clean them, they had lots
of
internal gunk and metal flakes. I cleaned internal components with gasoline
and
polished the internal disk with rubbing compound , I also had to stretch out
the main
springs. These lifters look exactly like the stock solid lifters but with
internal hydraulic
guts, these are expensive when new at almost 200 bucks but my regrounds seem
good.
The hydraulic cam seems to have been from a bus engine and was reground at
Snieder
Cams in San Diego (those guys with the iron cross logo.
I am into reliability because I do not want my car broken down even for a
half a day,
I have jumpered cable several cars at my job's parking lot (Fords, Toyotas,
Nissans,
GM stuff, Porsche and watercooled VW's) they had different problems. My
coworkers know
I always carry jumper cables and have a very large battery under the seat,
no one has every
given me a boost , just the other way around, I always carry a fire
extinguisher, I have used two of them,
one on a caddy and another on an Oldsmobile.
Detail to quality of your own work is very importatant for a good running
engine, no cutting corners (hey that will kind of work ! , good enough for
gov work ) .
My car only broke down once (bad regulator, no start) when my sister
borrowed it
for hauling her kid's soccer stuff, she still borrows it for camping because
she
says it is suited better than her Cabrolet that has limited space
and is more frigile. My dad snags it for Home depot runs at every chance he
gets for
moderate stuff, he is too frugal on spending gas on the 15 miles per gallon
truck.
Good 1600 VW eng . Some ideas came from VW airplane forums.
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As you know my past major engine problems were the following:
- Cracking heads (good pile in the garage) on # 3 and #4 cylinders (going
too fast ?)
+ ??? corrected by removing the cool air leaking
stock oil cooler
(plugged that air outlet) and placing a 140
plate mesa
oil cooler above the tranny wth one 9 inch fan
and filled the rest
of the spaces with mini fans.
+ Bought sturdier heads with extra fins.
+ installed super cooling tins
+ Sealed all tin mating areas with silicon
sealant(no oil, water, air and noise can get through)
+ Fixed my EFI to prevent getting too lean (lean
causes knocking and overheating)
+ Fixed my stuck distributor advance that caused
lugging slowly uphills and overheating.
Note : Cylinders 3 and 4 are now much cooler than before but are
still 25 to 50 degrees warmer than
cylinders 1 and 2 because of the direction the fan blows
the air and the turns the air is required
to do to get in the heads. 350 deg on 3 and 4 vs 270 on 1
and 2 while going 70mph on a 75 dregree day.
- Stripped cam gear :
+ My fault, did not know cam gear should be
matched with case (was nice and tight)
Too much heat will wear valve stems and guides (VW airplane forum)
- Continuous valve adjustment, stem galling, quick valve guide wear (caused
by too fast and too many miles)
+ Swivel foot adjusters cured the valve stem
galling and prevents valve guide wear (less
pushing sideways.
+ Hydraulic lifters made my valve train quiet
and maintenance free.
- Continuous point adjustment caused by too fast and too many miles :
+ Installed Pertronix module and a jumbo coil
(now maint free)
+ Plugs that requires no gapping/self cleaning
- Erratic idle problem:
+ Repaired the electric airvalve.
-Case longivity problem , cracked bearing case bore (too fast too many
miles) , corrected by:
+ Cheap VW balanced crank
+ Big oil pump
+ 140 plate oil cooler with oil filter
+ Good line bore of old new case
+ 2 quart deep sump installed
+ Flat magnets in sump in addition to
magnetic plug
- Lower compression and increased blowby when warmer getting oil dirty
around 3000 miles(I know that is normal) :
+ Total Seal second rings
+ Semisynthetic motor oil
+ oil filter and extra capacity cooling
assembly
*****For the future******+ Thinking of installing one of those Frantz oil
filters that uses a roll of toilet
paper, have one on
the truck and it really works, no need
to change oil
for maybe a year, just the roll.
- Oil leaks , I hate oil leaks, it is embarrasing to park at work between a
Lexus and a Porche with a puddle of
oil under me , determined, I have found the solution.
+ Gasgaginched the two cases together
+ Used two part thick marine (epoxy)
paint on top of the two engine seam halves,
around oil gallery plugs and pump
seams and nuts.
+ Put teflon thread sealant on ALL
bolt/nuts threads.
+ Silicon pushrod tube seals
+ Silicon Front crank seal
+ Silicon on crank to flexplat/flywheel
mating surfaces.
+ Felpro cork rubber head cover gaskets
that are glued
on with silicon (NO NEED TO OPEN
THESE ANYMORE)
+ head bolts/siliconed inside rocker
area and outside rocker
area.
+ I used a dab of silicon on top of all
nuts to lock them in
and keep them from turning. Loctite
cracks with heat and
lets the nut turn, prevents oil
leaks and loose head syndrome.
+ Replaced all those little "o" rings
in my auto tranny, includinig
rear converter seal
+ Siliconed outside of diff and tranny
mating area and put silicon on
all nuts to prevent leaks and
loosening.
+ Gooped Permatex 2 on all Tranny
pressure plugs to prevent leaking.
- Tranny oil in diff
+ replaced diff internal front seal.
Result ????? No leaking for almost 6 months , very dry under car. Surface
corrosion is also begining to
form under engine and tranny where the pint is scratched.
Almost maint free car , except for the yearly greasing using synthetic
marine grease.
People may think I am so stuffy and anal about the work I did on my engine.
I just
hate spending time fixing problems I like to add stuff but not spend every
weekend
fixing a daily driver , that is what FIATS are for ( I had three) .
I would like to spend quality time working on my Fasty and big V8 muscle
engines while
using my car to go to the bone yards and parts store for my projects.
Durability, maint free and drivability is the objective for me, this car is
not lowered but
raised a little very stock inside and out except for mods on the engine.
LEON MARTINEZ
1969 SQUAREBACK EFI/AUTO
1967 FASTBACK PROJECT
SAN DIEGO AND TIJUANA
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