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<x-charset iso-8859-1>Hey Leon- > I have not gotten the front condenser or dryer yet but I will probably get > those > from a high efficiency system off some sealed Japanese luxury system at a > junkyard, Good ideas! Also, go check out an automotive A/C supply shop. They have a lot of "universal" components there you can purchase to work with many applications. For example, you can probably find a good parallel-flow (as opposed to tube-and-fin) condensor that fits the size you need for ~$100, all brand new. Also, you really should get a new dryer. They're kinda like filters - replace them when stuff is apart. > R-134. > better cooling and lowers horse power usage. I will also use the newer R-12 > replacement, > that is called R-12a etc. This is legal for mail order and no flourocarbons. I'd be VERY wary of R-12a. It's a blend, and it contains lots of hydrocarbons. These are very bad words... among other problems, if a leak occurs, you can have an explosion. Not pretty. Also, maybe this info is old, but: http://www.refrigerantid.com/downloads/mvacsnap.pdf says that "R-12a" (which is a tradename, not an official chemical name like R-12, R-22, and R-134a) is still illegal. > R-134 is a bad > gas that is not as efficient and requires more pump pressure and horsepower > to just kind > of work, that is why more efficient system is required for this gas. True, it is less efficient. But, with good, modern parts, it's no problem. I'd reconsider R-134a... > Some of those High efficiency 5 or 6 > cylinder pumps get that black death scenario and I have experienced Black death? What do you mean? My personal experience with Sanden 508 compressors on aircooled VWs has been good... curious: what happened with you? > that so > I will > use one of those oldie one banger cast iron Techmush or 2 banger York that > is taboo > because of the use of 4 to 5 horses on standard R-12. As long as I use a > High efficiency > condeser setup with dual fans, insulate the car better, use long copper > input/output lines > and use the R-12 replacement, I do not need those new type plastic piston > ring five to > six banger pumps. It'll still pull a bigger load... it's just not an efficient pump design. > I have no bracket for these types anyhow or anyway to fit > these > without getting rid of my aircleaner, none are stodgy enough. Aye, I can see where this would be very tricky :-). One thing you may try is getting a conversion kit from an automotive A/C supply place. The York and the Sanden have very standardized bolt patterns and kits do exist consisting of parts to weld to York brackets to make them Sanden brackets. The aircleaner bit is tricky, too. One idea is to use a Sanden 507 compressor. It is slightly smaller in capacity than a 508, but is also physically shorter. On early bugs, they allow A/C to be added without touching the decklid. Maybe they'll help you get away without an aircleaner problem... hmm... > Nothing installed yet, just accumulating all the parts first. > Once installed and used, I will make reports on the cooling, performance and > how > much heat is detected from my head temp senders. If you go York, I'd be most curious to see your head temp findings. I've not seen them using this configuration before. As for the Sanden solution, at cruising speeds, I found no notable difference in head or oil temperature, regardless of outside temperature, mountain grade, etc. I've driven cross-country a lot with this setup... and I tried very hard to note a difference anywhere, but I couldn't find anything notable. The load is too small :-) Take care, Shad Laws LN Engineering - Aircooled Precision Performance http://www.LNengineering.com ------------------------------------------------------------------- Too much? Digest! mailto:type3-d-request@vwtype3.org Subj=subscribe </x-charset>