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Re: [T3] Alternator Output and then some...and some
Forwarded to the type 3 list for general interest:
On 10 Mar 2002, at 11:17, Jason T. Smith wrote:
> Thanks for all the help. I did not know it was a generator, I thought
> after certain years, the late cars had alternators?
Not on type 3s. Beetles got them, and if I don't mention it several people will
jump in and mention the odd Brazilian type 3s that got alternators, but all the
usual German-made type 3s came with generators.
> Oh, well. I had the battery charged at one of those battery stores for free.
> This was a fairly new battery(less than 6 months), but I think the radio
> wiring combined with it sitting during the winter (I only take it out a
> couple times a month) discharged the battery enough for it not to get a good
> charge in that 10 minutes of driving. Plus I let it sit for about two weeks
> on that 10min., so that did not help any.
If your battery sat for a long time, it can recover, but it will need to get a long
slow charge. Don't take it to someone for a quick charge, that will just
damage it. You can buy a cheap charger that has a fast and a slow charge
setting and just leave it on the slow setting overnight. If you can get a
charger that has a meter on it then you can leave it connected for a week if
the meter shows less than 1A.
Your radio should be wired such that the time/frequency display goes off
when you turn the key OFF. If you do it any other way it will run your battery
down while parked. Modern digital radios have 2 wires that get power: One
should be connected to a fuse that is hot all the time and the other to a fuse
that goes off with the key.
> Speaking of which, I still have yet to figure out my FI system,
> recently I was having more problems with the car just shutting off and not
> starting again. The list had talked about temp sensors and cold start system
> etc. But I haven't had the time to work on anything, it also too cold.
Just quitting while driving is neither a charging system, nor a cold start valve
problem. How cold is it where you live?
> I had disconnected the Temp Switch and this seemed to work for a while then
> it happened again. The car just dies and will not start. So I unplugged
> the Cold Start valve's MPC and she started right up. And after I got my
> battery charge she ran like never before, I mean smooth, just beautiful.
Borrow a voltmeter and check what the battery voltage measures after a
warmup drive. Measure it at medium RPM. It should be above 14V. If it is
below 13.5V replace the voltage regulator with a genuine Bosch.
When you get in the car and turn the key ON, you should hear a relay click
and then hear another click ~1 second later. Do you hear both clicks? Let us
know what you hear.
> So, what gives? Could the cold start system really cause this much flux
> in the operation. I know it is only suppose to work while the starter is
> firing. I'll have to do a full system check once the weather warms up here
> in OH.
> '72 Fastback
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Jim Adney, jadney@vwtype3.org
Madison, Wisconsin, USA
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