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On 18 Jan 2002, at 0:05, Mark Seaton wrote: > I've been having problems with miss-firing ,particularly when warming up, > and I saw this post and it rang alarm bells. Well I checked my dist and it > is a 311 905 205 AI. It is connected up : > > 4 3 > 1 2 > > but seems to work OK apart from the miss-fire. Could this be just that the > drive gear is put in wrong, and would this really matter so long as the > rotor arm lines up with the right "contact" for the correct timing? "AI" are you sure? The parts list only shows up to "AH." Yes, your drive gear has been installed wrong. You could fix it, but it's a bit scary, some hassle, and if it's working right okay now you could just leave it as-is. The plug wires route better if the drive gear is in there right, but the engine will still run fine. > Also I checked my maximum advance and it seems to go way past 30 deg at > reasonably fast rpm with the timing set at 7.5 deg advance at idle. Is this bad > or was the max advance stated on the list just for FI cars? This is a late car > by the way. You should time to the 3rd mark on this late FI engine, and that mark is 5 BTDC. This should still leave you at about 30 deg max advance (without the vacuum advance. I'm assuming this is a european 73 with only a vacuum advance and no vacuum retard. If you have a vacuum retard, then this is a 72 engine and the timing should be done differently. > I think I may have solved the miss-fire problem- I had checked most of the > obvious things but as I had recently replaced the HT leads with a new set , I > hadn't bothered checking these. On a dark night you could definitely see > occasional flashing glows within the cables but I assumed this was normal. > Tonight I replaced the leads one by one with an 8mm silicon lead and when I > replaced the no.2 lead the engine ran much better. My drive home was a new > experience- no stalling at take-off and a lot less lumipness when cruising. It > really turned the engine from a lumpy old banger into a smooth performer- > lovely! I would like to replace the leads with some really good quality ones > like the bosch silicon copper 7mm leads but it seems you can only but these as a > set for modern cars and at quite a price! - I would like to get just the leads > to screw my nice caps onto. I've tried contacting Beru online but they seem > pretty exclusive and haven't answered yet. Anyone know a good place to buy > decent quality silicon cable by the metre off the roll? in UK? or europe? I have rather ordinary 7mm copper core wire on spools. How much would you like? This works fine on our cars, but you may have your plug gap set too wide; they should be .7-.8mm. Setting the gap too wide raises the firing voltage and makes it more likely that the flashover will occur elsewhere. You should also check the end connector on the #2 lead. It may be open. These can be replaced individually. There was SOMETHING wrong with the #2 ignition. Inspect the wire, end connector, and spark plug. Rounded plug electrodes will also raise the spark voltage. Think about it this way: The spark will flash across the weakest link in the chain. If the weakest link is not the spark plug gap your cylinder won't fire. - ******************************* Jim Adney, jadney@vwtype3.org Madison, Wisconsin, USA ******************************* ------------------------------------------------------------------- Too much? Digest! mailto:type3-d-request@vwtype3.org Subj=subscribe