[Date Prev][Date Next][Thread Prev][Thread Next][Date Index][Thread Index] [New Search]
On 22 Feb 2002, at 11:56, Justin C. Earl wrote: > I have a '69 Squareback with a GEX rebuilt single relief case motor that has > about 10,000 miles on it. At about the 5,000 mile mark, I noticed that after > running 55-60mph for a couple of miles, when I came to a red light and idled, my > oil pressure light came on. I talked to the local VW mechanic and he said this > was most likely overheating and that I should remove the thermostat since it was > probably malfunctioning. In hindsight, I realize, I should not have followed > this advice. Sounds like you've learned your lesson. Do you still have the old flaps, etc? Those are hard to find otherwise. I don't think your numbers are all that bad. The temp is a little high, but the pressures are pretty typical. > I know that gauges aren't 100% accurate but I think I can trust the relative > data AND the oil pressure light and realize that I definitely have an oil > pressure problem. It sounds like your light is coming on at a slightly high pressure > I checked out my oil pressure relief spring and piston. My spring was 3" > long and had the solid type piston. I got a new spring and it was 3 1/8" > and installed it with the type piston that has the ridge/indention running > around it. This actually resulted in lower oil pressure. In a Clymer > manual for Type 3 that I have, it says the spring should be right about 2 > 1/2". Which length spring and which piston is correct for a single relief > case? The correct piston for this engine has the groove. The Bentley manual has the spring data in it. The important things about the spring are its length, OD, # of turns, and wire diameter. The real question is what force is required to compress it to the working length. There are a lot of aftermarket spring kits out there and I have never found them to work as well as the OE spring; I suspect that in most cases they have just picked a spring that looks about right without really doing any engineering. > I've talked to 2 VW guys with over 30 years motor building experience and > neither have ever heard of an oversized oil pressure relief piston and I > can't find any such animal in any VW parts catalog that I have. Is there > such a thing? Yes, they are in the parts list, but I've only ever seen one. It is extremely unlikely that you need one of them. > At this point, I am considering getting a new case, tapping it for a remote > spin-on oil filter, going with new crank, cam, main/rod/cam bearings, oil pump, > lifters, rods, etc. and using my existing pistons, heads, and other parts > (outside of the case) since they only have 10,000 miles on them. There are a lot of things that can cause the symptoms you are seeing, but I don't think your symptoms are really all that bad. I would concentrate on making sure that everything is tight in the engine you have, especially the head studs and main bearing studs. See the Bill Fisher book (below) on details of adding a full flow oil filter. > I have a friend with a case that is not new, but it is uncut. He is talking > about line boring it to .020" over and using new bearings but a refurbished > crank (fresh from the machine shop and still wrapped in plastic). Are there any > reliability issues I should be concerned about if I go this route? Sure, there are examples of poor workmanship with anything you buy. If you are thoughtful and careful you won't be fooled. > I also notice all of the recent talk of old camshafts vs. new..... should I > see what this cam looks like that is in this motor? Or should I go with a new > one? On cam bearings, I see single and double thrust advertised... double > thrust sounds like they are mainly for high performance applications but will > they extend the life of a stock motor? Same for a counterweighted crank? Is > it worth the money for added reliability or should I leave that for the high > performance crowd? Each of these things gives a small increase in longevity and reliability. A lot also depends on your driving style. You really need to study the following books and get yourself educated on a lot of the questions that you're asking here. Volkswagen Official Service Manual Type 3 Fastback and Squareback 1968-1973 published by Robert Bentley, Cambridge, Mass, 1974 ISBN 0-8376-0057-X / LPV 997 383 / VSQU (excellent book, complete and well written) How to Hotrod Volkswagen Engines by Bill Fisher published by H. P. Books, Tucson, AZ, 1970 ISBN 0-912656-03-4 (excellent book, well written and researched) - Jim Adney jadney@vwtype3.org Madison, WI 53711-3054 USA ------------------------------------------------------------------- Too much? Digest! mailto:type3-d-request@vwtype3.org Subj=subscribe