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On Thu, 2002-08-22 at 11:45, Martinez, Leon wrote: > > Jacob wrote, > Its the skinny one with the hole in the middle. > > > ****************************************************************** > > Oh no !!! the skinny gland nut ! Flashbacking to the Disney land parking lot > > > The right one looks exactly like a standard stock glandnut without the > center > bearing. The center hole must allow the Coverter Nub to fit snug inside but > not too tight . The Autostick glandnut center hole is way big and and will > make the converter to sometimes flop around and cause the engine to > seem unbalanced. What I mean by standard Glandunt , is the one used for > the stickshift. > > Sometimes thickess varies on standard glandnuts, if they are too thick it > will also be bad. You MUST rehearse the install of the coverter to your > flexplate with your engine out. Make sure the converter feels snug in the > glandnut > and can be turned manually in it (you must hold it) like as if it were a > wheel and axil . > bolt the torque converter to the flexplate on the engine with the engine > out, > make shure everything fits perfectly with no reservations or comprimise. > Snug straight on fit is what should be strived for. > > > Anyon have a source for glandnuts without the center bearing so removal is > not necessary ? No catalog lists these. > I am sitting here with a T-3 automatic tranny gland nut, and a micrometer. The thickness of of the hex portion is .402". I do not have an inside micrometer at home, but as close as I can measure center hole, is 13/16". Hope this helps. And Jacob, if you need one, let me know. I don't have the drive plate. I sold mine last week to someone in San Diego. -- Russ Wolfe '66 FB MT (It drove) '71 FB AT '65 Bug (not running) russw@classicvw.org http://www.classicvw.org ------------------------------------------------ To unsubscribe, E-mail to: <type3-off@vwtype3.org> For more help, see http://vwtype3.org/list/