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<x-charset iso-8859-1>I have some input on this..... I think the remote one I made is better but some may argue this due to experiences of really flakey setups that are problematic. Some people would argue against this, others would just full flow the remote cooler to a special pump cover and have the stock cooler in addition. The stock cooler is already in the full flow position and controls the volume of oil depending on temperature and viscosity. If you place one of those strong spring kits in the oil cooler's releif valve at the bottom of the engine, you can get oil flowing to the cooler almost all of the time , even if you have 50 weight oil when the outside living temps are 120 degrees. Having said all of this , there is one drawback to this company manufactured designed system , engineers were mixing efficiency with cost, cost is controlled by industrial engineers that like to comprimise in order to save the company money (I have dealt with them for years); well I think the oil cooler design has the following flaws: - Dog housing the oil cooler is a good Idea but needed air for the # 3 cylinder is blasting out through the cooler and the tin. This can cause crack head on # 3 cyl. - oil cooler is mounted to hot engine, keeping some oil hot - oil cooler seals are heated to case and usually harden and crack causing leaks and mysterious oil to accumulate on top of engine. - The type 3 engine runs hotter than T-1 and loss of cool air through the oil air duct further aggravates the problem. - The air flow to the left bank of cylinders is not efficient since the air is blasted upward then the ducting wants to give it a 90 degree turn forward then it has to flow downward to cylinders 3 and 4 . The air for cylinders 1 and 2 flow sideways into the main duct enterance over the pistons then down , no major U turn like cylinders 3 and 4. Point: less air goes to cylinders 3 and 4 because it is easier to go to the oil cooler. Note : Cyl 1 and 2 is 50 to 100 degrees cooler than 3 and 4 even with the oil cooler relocated and the oulets/openings closed. Imagen how hot it gets with the original oil cooler in( have head temp meter sensors on both heads) - These flaws only show up when car is driven hard for a long time and/or is higher mileage. Having said all that : Yeah, I have replaced my stock oil cooler but you must be careful when doing this because most car problems are self inflicted. You must buy the best hose if the cooler did not come with it because heat will harden and crack the hoses causing leaks. Best to get cloth coverd hoses, they take more pressure and protected from heat. Best to get a mesa cooler with 72 plates or larger, do not get the tube type , get the type Kymco sells with the fan , other vendors have similar ones. You can also get the best coolers in the world from Earl's Performance (I do not have their web site on hand) , their cooler design is similar to the original VW types but with many different shapes and sizes, these are the improved version of our original trusted types, very expensive though. You must close the oil cooler air outlet duct and fabricate a little aluminum cover for the oil adapter that took the place of the oil cooler, you do not want air leaks there. I have intalled two 72 plate Mesa coolers in series, I did not have the "y" adapters to install them in the more desireable parallel configuration. I bought both from KYMCO. So you can say I have a 144 plate cooler. The standard fan and coolers are above the transmission (automatic). The one with the 9 inch fan is on the driver's side, the other one is in the passinger side . The passinger side is too tight for the fan since the stater is in the way but I had to install 9 heavy duty 12v computer fans, it may seem lame but they do blow good air if they are of a higher current rating. In series to these, I have installed a remote filter , next to the driver's side cooler and wheel well. Oil goes in here first to keep the coolers clean from clogging and debris, must use quality filters because I have heard that cheap ones blow apart under higher pressure on cold days, this has not happened to me though, better be safe. I used the best hoses from Gates (the outlet store is 4 blocks from my house in Mexico), these are internal braided and external braided with burst pressures of 800 lbs, these can take alot of heat and scuffing. One oil cooler (driver's side) large in/out brass nipples are pointed to the driver's side tires and the one on the passenger side is pointed toward the rear with hoses bent to to the side, it would be best to find and install a soft elbow to save the hoses from bending too much. The oil filter adaper fittings are pointed foreward toward the filter and the driver's side cooler, one hose goes to that cooler the other goes to the oil cooler adapter outlet. The oil cooler adaper has both fittings pointed forward. One more thing, Increase your oil pressure by installing one of those oil pressure increase kits into the releif valves. I also installed a much bigger pump (31 mm) this fits well with the motor mount bracket since I had the dished cam; With the late dished cam , you can put a bigger pump in while keeping it under the motor mount bar and fan shroud. That is how I did it , added a 2 quart sump too for overkill , I just did not like to see smoke comming out of the oil filler tube and hearing oil boiling. Yeah I think it is better if you use the car alot especially rough . Never seen that oil light blink since Dec, not even in hot weather. Hope this helps someone....... LEON MARTINEZ SAN DIEGO AND TIJAUNA ------------------------------------------------ To unsubscribe, E-mail to: <type3-off@vwtype3.org> For more help, see http://vwtype3.org/list/ </x-charset>