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you don't have to remove all of the paint, but if you
use a wire brush, or if you sandblast (the best
adhesive besides rust) it works very well.
the metal-ready will not remove all the paint but if
there is a little, the metal ready will basically
deteriorate the paint so it just flakes off when dry
and don't worry about the white stuff after the
metal-ready dries, it is just zinc.
BUT one thing to keep in mind:
DON'T wear anything of importance.
and being a girl having POR-15 in my hair was NOT fun,
so wear some type of beanie to keep your hair out of
the way.
and i must tell you it does NOT come off your skin for
about 3-4 weeks, and will NEVER come off of clothes.
(when you get it on your skin IMMEDIATELY take some
POR-thinner and remove it...it's really bad for your
skin so don't do it too much)
AND don't place you car under a tree to dry in the
sun...i have several peices of leaves i ended up
painting over ...lol
When I did the "Rustoration" on on my fasty. I
stripped the whole bottom of the floor pan of the
undercoating then I sandblasted the surface because
there wasn't alot of rust. I put 3 coats of the
POR-15, and I have not yet put on the top coat(i don't
think there will be much sunshine down there anyway).
I am not sure that i will need to because usually the
top coat is used for areas that are exposed to
sunlight alot, to keep the POR-15 from changing
colors, after a certain time of exposure.
On the top side of the floor pan i used the fiberglass
"Mesh" for some of the rust pinholes and to reinforce
the pan (you just paint over the "mesh" and you don't
need any fiberglass catalyst or anything, just
POR-15), and I also used the POR-putty for some small
holes the the PO drilled for "drain holes" .
I also PORed underneath the brake reservoir, because
that was one of the places that had surface rust ( i
will need to use tie-coat to paint over it)
I think it looks great but the real test is when i get
it on the road. and here in Oregon it's definately a
test for rust.
I have one question for Brian:
I finished most of the POR-15 areas that I
needed to coat...I still need to finish the fresh air
intake (on the sides) and I am not sure how long the
shelf life of POR-15, and the top coat. I remember
reading somethng about 6 months to a year, but I hope
that I will be able to put a little POR-thinner, and i
will be able to use it again.
BTW I wanted to TEST the POR-15, and I painted it on a
peice of scrap metal (2 coats) on both sides, let it
dry, then I hit it with a hammer several times on a
concrete block...hardly made a mark....not only untill
i had bent the metal all the way over on itself (180
degrees) that it had STARTED to come apart, and
seperate from the metal. pretty good sh*t
I can't wait to see the results of this POR-15.
I hope this gives someone some good ideas for their
project....good luck!
-Heather
'71 Fastback
'73 Camper bus
Check out my website:
http://vwdreamer.tripod.com
P.S. check out the Pictures page, then to the
Rustoration pages lots of cool stuff.
--- ApoplexY <apoplexy@eradain.com> wrote:
> Quick question,
>
> Does this mean I have to remove all paint from the
> pan, or will the metal
> ready take care of that?
>
> Thanks,
> Carrie
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: jbowen7@aol.com [mailto:jbowen7@aol.com]
> Sent: Wednesday, April 24, 2002 9:55 AM
> To: type3@vwtype3.org
> Subject: Re: [T3] POR 15 Question, IMPORTANT
>
>
> Robbie Hattaway wrote: "Por-15 will not adhere to
> metal unless it has a coat
> of rust to bond to."
>
> This is so incorrect.
>
> POR15 directions state that rusted or sandblasted
> metal is best (surfaces
> with "tooth") to paint w/POR15. Smooth metal should
> be treated with "Metal
> Ready" before paining with POR15. Metal Ready is an
> etching solution w/zinc
> phosphate.
>
> BTW, I'm using POR15 products with my restoration
> efforts. The stuff is
> AMAZING. It self levels when brushed on and dries
> hard as rock. I was
> attempting to install the pedal assembly in my
> Square, when I dropped my
> ratchet wrench onto my newly POR15'd floorpan (which
> was stripped to bare
> metal and treated with metal ready). I thought
> "damn, there's the first
> chip." NOT. I couldn't find a scratch, let alone a
> chip.
> The stuff is incredible. No, I don't work for the
> company. :)
>
> Hope this dispels any myths.
>
> Jim Bowen
> Round Rock, TX
> '72 Square
> '74 SB Sun Bug
> '88 Vanagon Wolfsburg
>
>
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