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On 12 Apr 2002, at 9:12, jason.smith@sarcom.com wrote: > >TVS is a later replacement they introduced an internal stop that will let > you "feel" the right spot. > This must be a different click?...Oh yeah I just read your post to > Drake...those twenty clicks are different from the adjusting click. My must > not be a later replacement it turns free. Are terminals 17 and 14 inside > the MPC? Any idea what a correct reading be? These are term 14 & 17 on the brain connector, or they are also marked on the TVS. R will go from zero to infinity at that point; you find the point and then turn the TVS so that the throttle has to turn a tiny bit before the TVS passes that point. You also have to make sure the TVS passes down past that point each time you release the throttle. Get someone to help you check that this works all the way from the pedal. The "click problem" here is that the 68-9 (2-pin) TVS has a little microswitch in it which actually makes a click in the switch itself. The later TVS (4 & 5 pin) have no such switch, just silent contacts. SOME of these contacts will make the injectors fire when they are closed, so you can hear a click from the injectors, but there's no sound associated with the special idle contact, so you don't know where it occurred unless you measure for it. I can never remember which way it goes, but it will be obvious once you get an Ohmmeter on it. You know you have the right pair of pins when they change state right near idle and don't change again anywhere else in the full range of travel. > >There's no need to plug any hoses, but it does no harm, either. > > I noticed that this was my biggest problem area. I disconnected the retard > hose and was able to adjust the idle, but I had to leave it disconnected > from the ignition dist. Because the Idle would shoot down to around 800rpms > with it connected. With this set up. I was able to drive the car, but with > a load on the engine the idle goes way down and there is no power especially > in 1st. 2nd seems to have normal pick up, but no power on any up grade. > But it does not bog down, just no power. Could my vacuum can on the dist be > bad? It was recently replaced by a mechanic with a used one that he said he > tested. If attaching the retard hose made the idle drop, then you know that it was working. Did you do all the vac advance tests in the 72 tuneup section of the Bentley? Sounds like your only problem is that the idle just won't adjust back up after you've properly done the timing. This COULD be a misadjusted TVS, or a number of other things, but you've already checked most of them. You might see if you could find a known good pressure sensor to try, in the hope that this might make a difference. Bad ones DO happen, but they are rare. Unfortunately, the only way to test for this kind of failure is by substituting a known good one. > Charging system is giving 14v. Valves are adjusted. I have not been able > to check the fuel pressure. SP are correct, but I'll check and double > check. See if your mechanic can verify that the fuel pressure is correct (28-30psi.) - Jim Adney jadney@vwtype3.org Madison, WI 53711-3054 USA ------------------------------------------------------------------- List info at http://www.vwtype3.org/list or mailto:help@vwtype3.org