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More... I checked the spark and it is good, form the plug and coil. I checked all the wires for the Fuel injectors, all were good. One thing I did find is that the person that owned the car before had connected the new stereo to the Fuel relay under the dash. I disconnected all wiring to the stereo. I did something stupid in which I left the rotor out when I checked the points etc. However, the sound of trying to start the car with out the rotor, is the exact sound it makes when it will not start as mentioned before. This lead me to believe, it has to do with the rotor. I had replaced it about 2 weeks ago. I may be completely off base, just guessing. Additionally, after trying all this and going for a test drive, it stalled again while driving after only about 5 minutes. I was able to start right back up. Also, could this having anything to do with the work the mechanics did? Replacing the fuel injector, vacuum pump. The reason I say this is before I took it there I had no problems with it stalling at all. I drove it for 7 hours from Tennessee and to work and back for 3 weeks with no problems. The only reason I took it to the shop was to get the hesitation/powerloss problem addressed. Any more Ideas? -----Original Message----- From: Jim Adney [mailto:jadney@vwtype3.org] Sent: Friday, September 21, 2001 09:26 To: type3@vwtype3.org Subject: Re: [T3] Engine stalls and won't start (stupidly long) On 21 Sep 2001, at 8:18, JSmith3@SARCOM.COM wrote: > Ok I need some advice, here is the continuing story. A few weeks ago > I had a problem with power loss and hesitation on my 72 fastback AT > FI. I replaced the fuel filter, no dice. I took it to the shop, they > replaced a Fuel Injector, vacuum advance and changed the oil and added > an oil treatment. Hesitation fixed. I have had it back for 3 or 4 > days now. I drove it to the store on the first day, park, go to start > it and it just cranks, giving it gas has no effect. I try multiple > times, no go. I check the engine and the breather cap is popped, I > replace that. The breather cap is unrelated, so while it's a good thing to fix it isn't causing this problem. The first thing to do is to find out whether the problem is fuel or spark related. Carry a spare spark plug with you so you can quickly pull a SP wire off the engine and slip it on the spare and lay the spare somewhere on the engine, NOT against any FI wiring harness parts. Grab a passerby to watch the plug for spark while you crank the engine with the starter. Get a voltmeter and connect it to the output side of the fuel pump relay. Place the voltmeter where you can glance at it when the engine is having trouble. You should read full system voltage (12.5- 14V any time the engine is running. Do you hear any relay clicks from under the dash when this happens? Have you tried cleaning the FI trigger points with a clean piece of paper? (Do NOT file them.) Check all the FI wires you can find and make sure their contacts are tight and that there are no wires falling apart. This has got to be exasperating for you, but you seem to be handling it well. Hang in there. - Jim Adney jadney@vwtype3.org Madison, WI 53711-3054 USA ------------------------------------------------------------------- Unsubscribe? mailto:type3-request@vwtype3.org, Subject: unsubscribe