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hello.
when you have time start with a good clean off all the cars
electrics begin at the battery with the terminals and work your way to the
starter motor then do the engine bay generator coil chokes cut of valves
sender unit bright shiny and tight, do not be tempted to remove the vw
crimps they are better than ones you can put on and in the long run give
less hassle.
check the ground strap as well make sure you remove it clean it and
its mountings and replace!
change your fuel filter clean the one in the pump as well!
with the engine cold undo the 3 screws that hold the chokes remove
the air cleaner know rotate the chokes till they are each giving an equl gap
of about 4-5mm a drill bit is good to measure this.
replace everything and start up how is it if it doesnt have enough
choke to get you thru the cold spells close the gap a little ok for now be
happy you can allways close them a little latter.
go for a drive get the thing nicely warmed up.
turn off remove the distributer cap and check the points gap warm!
is it to close? set them correctly.
replace cap start up run engine at 200rpm to clear manifolds for
about 30 seconds remove the air cleaner again disconect the throttle link to
the rh carb as you looking at it. anything strange happen?
look into the carbs can you see fuel coming out of the main
discharge nossel? it shouldnt you may need to put anothe washer under the
needle valve to lower the level in the float bowl on both carbs!
if its not leaking all s well reconnect the rh link and accelerate
can you see a nice stream from both accelerator discharge nossles is one
better than the other? check the accelerator diaphram screws are tight.
if one is still better than the other you may need a new diaphram !
run it again @2000rpm to clear the manifolds remove the rh link
again.
with your new unisync tool placed on top of the rh carb make a mental
note of the reading ;-) have a look at the lh carb is it the same?
now do you need you idle lower or higher if lower adjust the high
readin carb to the lower if you need to go up adjust the low reading carb to
the higher reading carb . use a screwdriver on the bolt head that adjusts
the closed position of the throttle butterfly.
reconect the rh link run the engine 2000rpm to clear it again a
minute.
did reconnectin alter stuff if it did adjust the link so the engine
doesnt change you can eyeball the link rods to see if they are all pulling
at the same time by the time various bits of motion are lost when it gets to
the carb throttle shafts try to reduce the slop in all the joints with a dab
of grease in each one.
now if you have idle screws with the handy little dials on them take
the lh one and turn it in till the speed drops just now turn it out 1/2 a
turn do the same on the rh.(or get your little screwdriver out if they dont
have the dial)
idle to high get the synch out and reduce each carb a tiny but
equal amount . clear the manifolds again.
happy?
rev the guy right up and suddenly let go of the throttle does it
pop in the exhaust?
if yes give each mixture screw a1/4 turn still popping do it again
untill it stops if you have to crank it right out now you have an air leak
manifold or exhaust.get that fixed and try again.
before you close your engine lid allways check the electrical
connections around your carbs big hands can move things like your cut off
valve wires.
general points if you spend a good while with the engine idleing
clear it allways make sure your engine is nicely warmed up before any
attempt at carb tuningis made.
all the other systems must be in good order first eletrical fuel
delivery timeing.
hope this helps .
im off for a coffee.
----- Original Message -----
From: "David & Sylvia" <st_diazde@tarleton.edu>
To: "neil verdon" <Neil.Verdon@t-online.de>
Sent: Sunday, September 02, 2001 7:49 PM
Subject: Re: [T3] re t3 cold engine???
> You know I got into my recently purchased from PO fasty engine and found
> some real neglect. The point were pitted and in need of adjustment, the
> plugs on the left head were pretty fowled up like if if the ignition,
> cables, were not operating properly, also i had t adjust the valves to
.004
> they were like at least 006.or 007.i still have not checked the reason for
> te fowled plugs but I installed new bosh platinun all around, points. I
> tried adjusting my carbs and this is what I got;
> I disconnected the linkages, warmed up the engine "wich sounded a whole
lot
> better"after all the exhaust was also tightened, started on the left carb
> since the right plugs look perfect,and I could not get the engine idle to
> die down even after I closed it all the way. I thought maybe I have an air
> leak, so I just turned the screw in all the way and then out about 1 1/2
> turns. road tested it and there was a very noticeable increase in power
and
> the performance. Now the chokes are not adjusted yet I wanted to get a
> UNY-SYNC tool to further get my carbs in gear. I don't know what else i
> should focuse my attention on but any insight would help. Thank before
hand
>
> David&Sylvia
> 67 Fastback
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "neil verdon" <Neil.Verdon@t-online.de>
> To: "type 3 list" <type3@vwtype3.org>
> Sent: Sunday, September 02, 2001 6:00 AM
> Subject: [T3] re t3 cold engine???
>
>
> > hello there
> > is the thermostat and assosiated parts fitted and are
> they
> > operating correctly.
> > do you need a fuel filter change?
> > it does sound like a bit of a lack of fuel when its cold mayby you
> > should rotate the chokes a tiny bit so they are a bit more closed and
see
> > how you go!
> > are all your electrical connections shiny bright and tight
something
> > may only be makeing a good circuit as it becomes warm with expansion.
> > neil verdon 66 sqr on irs pan
> > best among equals rise to the top.
> >
> > -------------------------------------------------------------------
> > Search old messages on the Web! Visit http://www.vwtype3.org/list/
> >
>