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Re: [T3] Fixed last suspension problems, floppy rotted ball joints


I greased my new lower ball joints by removing the boot 
and manually removed the boot and rubbed a good deal 
of grease inside these. The grease it had was just a tiney
dab. The grease I use is highly resistant to moisture
and is specially formulated for boat trailer bearings that 
get their hubs submerged when lauching boats. Good stuff.

By the way , I never had any tears appear on the rubber 
boots on any ball joints because of needle injecting the
grease but you are right , if one has new ones in their 
hands it is best not change grease boot integrety when it is
still prestine. I just do not know how good greasing on top
of the ball with a needle is compared to the greasing the rear
with the grease fitting.

These do not seem to have a spring , they are not as tight as 
the spring loaded ones I have had in my other cars. My original
VW ones seem not to have the spring also unless these rotted away 
since they were in such deteriorated condition,  they flopp around.

My new ball joints seem not to have a geasing channel , it seems to have a
solid shaft. If this is true that the shaft is solid and the ball joint is
made of pressure injected solid material , it may not be possible to drill
these.
I drilled these before on an italian car that did not have the spring load 
and I found out the drill made a hole all of the way down to the 
ball and scratched it. If our replacements do not have a hollow rear
section, the drill may have to go all of the way in and endanger scrathing
the
ball . If there is a hollow spot back there, it could be done . Metal
filings can
be removed by washing the ball joint in light solvent and then greasing the 
solvent out . 
 Have you ever cut the non spring loaded replacement to see if it is hollow 
at the back end where the ball sits ? Just curious. My replacements are made

in Italy and I bought these from Chirco Performance. I do not have the
brand name on hand but I will have it when I get back home.

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