Re: Re:[T3] Pan/Chassis exchange

["Ron Arnold" <type3@bellsouth.net>]

another thing you could do is go to that place online that sells titles i
think its called titles unlimited it costs like 150.00 for a title for your
car.. if you need the link and no one else has it i can get it from a friend

----- Original Message -----
From: "David Britton" <davidbritton2@home.com>
To: <type3@vwtype3.org>
Sent: Wednesday, May 09, 2001 1:47 AM
Subject: Re:[T3] Pan/Chassis exchange


> It's a bit long but hopefully will provide some useful info.
>
>  I don't know what they would do if I swapped the
> pan, but I like the idea of welding the old VIN back in place.
> -----------------------------
> I don't. This is commonly done to stolen BMWs etc. to
> hide the car's original VIN. I don't think that our DMV would allow a
> cut and weld  here,
>
> PerL
> 73 Variant L
> -----------------------------
> If you are talking about the chassis number... do not cut!
> Especially in Cali, they can X-ray for signs of alterations,
> and you can get into serious trouble.
>
> ... so you decide if you want to play "dumb" or cut and
> weld and possibly deal with the state...you choose.
>
> -Heather
> '71 Fastback
> '72 Squareback
> '74 Sunbug
> -------------------------------------
> I received a near perfect pan from a 73 Variant as part of the package
> when I bought my '64 project notchback.  The pan on the notch was in bad
shape
> and I had to figure a way to use the spare.  My first thought was to cut
out the VINs
> and install the correct one on the serviceable pan.  That seemed, to me,
less than honest
> so it was not an option, especially after I learned of the fines
associated with doing so.
> I called the DMV and realized just how much hassle it was going to be to
use the
> 73 VIN (in Cali no less) so gave up on that and nearly lost all hope.
After a week or so,
> I had a brainstorm... I would replace the floorpan panels on the notchback
chassis
> with the pan panels from the Variant.  To accomplish this, I removed
copious amounts
> of seam sealer and drilled out a few hundred spot welds around the
perimeter of each
> pan half.  After a few strategic cuts to finish the job,  I had 2 pristine
pan halves
> to install onto the notch chassis.
>
> I carefully removed the rusted pan halves, making certain that I left
sufficient
> overlap to secure the new pieces.  The new pieces were fit up, tack welded
in
> place and then verified for proper positioning before completing the
welding.
>
> The most critical thing to do is to achieve the proper spacing between the
two
> halves.  If any one considers doing this, here are a few tips to ensure
proper
> alignment and spacing:
>
> 1.) Install the plate between the two halves that attaches the
transmission "yoke"
>      to the tunnel and floor.  This will allow for proper hole spacing
when the plate
>      is installed later.
> 2.) Use the seats (and the rail "bushings") to get the proper spacing
between the
>      tunnel mounted seat rails and the rails attached to the pan.
> 3.) Tack the pan is place.  Also be certain that the pan halves are level!
Weld away.
> 4.) Once the welding is complete, apply seam sealer (I used 3M stuff).  A
coat
>      of POR-15 is a good idea at this time. Once the POR-15 cures, some
>      aerosol can undercoat (again 3M) gives an "as new" appearance.
>
> For me, the most difficult task here was fixturing all these pieces
together (seats included) into
> the correct position to tack them in place.  Otherwise, it was mostly time
and patience.
>
> Additional notes...
>
> I had to remove the 73 seat hardware (including the sheet metal latch
setup)
> and install the correct seat rails to match the seats I had.  This was
done prior
> to installing the pan halves to the chassis.  Fortunately, the project
came with NOS
> seat rails AND the plastic rail "bushings"!
>
> Also, while the rail mount locations are a bit different on the 73 pan, it
is possible
> to mount the old style rails with no modification (other than removing the
existing rails).
>
> Clean everything!  Remove old undercoat and seam sealer, enough to keep it
out
> of the weld area.  A putty knife and a hammer of sorts will break it free.
>
> That's my $.02
>
> Dave B
> Summerland, CA
> '64 notch in progress
>
>
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