[Date Prev][Date Next][Thread Prev][Thread Next][Date Index][Thread Index] [New Search]
> Does 35 deg max advance sound a little advanced to anyone else? I don't know what to say, it is a stock dist. and brand new advance from Jim A... It is 0 at idle. It was measured with my neighbors strobe timing light which has a little dial to check the advance. How would I lessen the advance? >. And if they were fouling up rapidly, suspect the > condensor or a bad cap or rotor. All three are new, but you're right I'm not worried about the points. > > > Regulated voltage up where it should be (~14-14.6V @ cruising rpm)? > > Do check this one carefully. I just did, is 13.7V good enough? THIS MAY BE IT!!?? > While it's running uneven, you should really notice a big rpm drop when you > unplug a working cylinder. Especially if you are running on only 2 or 3 in > the first place. At each cylinder unplug at two places (but 1 at a time): > at the dist. cap and at the injector wiring connector. I have only been unplugging the injector, does this make a difference? I will try again. (sigh) > Not sure, but maybe sticky injectors. Test them out. Pull an injector > assembly and put the tips into a wide-mouth jar. I have thought of this also, but if it runs fine when warmed up....?.I will try it some time. > > ohms) I discovered > > that injector wires 2 & 3 were switched, correcting this made > > no difference. > > Really? 2 and 3 are on opposite sides. Sure it wasn't 1/2 or 3/4? I'm sorry I meant 3 and 4 (I always think it the firing order) > You might also check for high resistance between the FI trigger point > connections on the harness (the two outer sockets of the 4-socket plug) and > the injector connections on the harness. You want to see no more than about > 2-3 ohms I think. I believe you need to do this with the key "on". You > should be able to do 2 injectors at a time. Then turn the engine 180 deg > and measure the other two. One of the outer sockets of the trigger point > connector talks to one pair of injectors, and the other outer socket talks > to the other injector pair. But the visual injector check described above > will also verify that this all works I guess.. Not sure what you mean here, do you mean the 3 plug connector on the actual points to the injectors? If so, I did check them, they were less than 0.5 ohms. Why would the key have to be on for this? > Have you looked at temp sensor resistances? Check them both cold and warmed > up. Resistances should decrease with increasing temp. See your manual for > the values. Did this, and the numbers were consistent with the Bosch FI manuel. > It's also possible that the pressure sensor could be screwey. I think the > only reliable way to test is by trying another one. You need the 68-69 > part. Less likely I guess is the brain, but don't jump to that conclusion > just yet. Yes, the pressure sensor and the brain are what scares me because they are the only parts that I don't really understand or know how to test. But with the cold rough running problem, wouldn't the pressure sensor affect all cylinders the same? > Did you make up that pressure gage? I had fun with mine a few weeks ago. I I bought a new one and wouldn't you know it, we have a half dozen gauges around here and they all read different. My brother is testing the new one with another new one at his shop. If they agree, I will trust it. Barry Viss '68 Square Shop online without a credit card http://www.rocketcash.com RocketCash, a NetZero subsidiary ------------------------------------------------------------------- Pitch in! Send your pledge of support! mailto:support@vwtype3.org