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That question has been asked alot : What is better, EFI or Carbs ? ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- --------------------- CARBS ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- --------------------- I think it is a personal preference. Carbs are easy to hold, take apart, put back together again , clean up etc... Must be maintained regularly reguarless if the car is used or not. Most people do not understand carburators sufficiently to really get their cars running nicely. I see nothing but performance problems from alot of people. Some people buy the aftermarket dual carb kit without fashioning some kind of filter that would get fresh air from the outside, like the original setup. What is usually installed are overly large carburators with low profile tiney circumference filters that get hot air that is floating up from the engine. To top it off, inconjunction with overcarburation a high speed jumbo cam gets installed that needs tons of air to make the car just go, vacume is nil. The resulting engine is one that will run like a dog in the city but at highway speeds feels OK and at higher speeds feels great. These errored mods usually have lots of flat spots and run very badly for routine driving. The word is ; be CONSERVATIVE when carbing an engine. An original 32 carb can wayyy outperform a 40 carb. You will see the bigger carb advertized as performance. This is performance if the small engine is going highspeed only but they would perform well with some of those jumbo engines some of you guys build 2000 -2300cc. The reason for that is the engines require lots more air flow and the smaller original carbs may make the engine bog down at higher speeds even though neck snapping torque is present at every light and stop sign. The vacume in this combination is quite large and fuel economy would be enhanced but at high speed, the engine would require more air than that is flowing through the carbs for correct volumetric efficency. The engine's air to fuel mixture would be way off and cause the car to bogg. Big carbs for big engines. Large carbs on a smaller engine missmatch is most common. Keep the conservative original cam unless you buy an offroad cam. High duration cam kills your vacume and makes your engine run badly because the fuel mixture in idle is way off. These cams are designed for higher speed power but at lower speed it may run like a dog at various degrees, depending on what performance level cam you have installed. If I went carbs, I would put the original type setup, but if that were not an option I would go conservative aftermarket and have some kind of air filter assembly fashioned by a sheet metal shop. Would keep the original type cam spec. I would make sure that my chokes are adjusted correctly and my jets and power valves are correct. Some people over jet and cause lots of performance problems. Carbs must not be set up lean because a lean condition usually means a meltdown death sentence for the heads. A carburated system keeps it's gas hot because a good amount of gas sits in it's carb container and fuel lines in the engine compartment. This has the propensity of fuel vapor lock in hot weather. This system also uses more gasoline than the EFI type of fuel delivery. I would choose a two stage carburator for each bank of cylinders, this would give me higher vacume at slower speeds thus give me very, very nice all around city performance but if I felt the need for speed, It would open the secondary larger stage(floor it) and let lots of gas and air to flow in. This is just like those spread bore carbs on those Detroit monsters. I would not know where to get this but you can ask the list. ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- --------------------- EFI ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- --------------------- Ultimately, I would prefer my EFI over carbs anytime because it is already well suited for performance of our engines and gives great gas mileage even though one has tweeked it like I have done before. My car starts just as I turn the key and has been working like this for almost two years. This system cools the The heads by injecting cool fuel into the head runners and intake valves. The fuel is cooled by it's fuel recirculation ring that keeps fuel moving around and around from the gas tank, thus cool fuel is always spraying thus keeping vapor lock incidents rare. With this system, the engine can be leaned out alot and still keep overheating and engine knock ( pinging, pinking) to a minimum. All around performance is very good on a good working system. The problem people have with this system is that mechanics are usually unfamiliar with the system so the owner has to fix it his or her self or go to familiar carbs As little as two years ago I was not familiar with this system at all or any Fuel injection system for that matter. My engine has been running beautifully even at dangerous speeds, I still cannot kick the habit of going 95 mph, I did that today. To be familiar and to fix this system you must ask questions, get data, print and write everything down, do everything the "experts" ask and do it right and not half way or comprimise. I have acummulated, notes from the internet and from the "experts" that measure now around eight inches of paper, some of it is hodge podge and the other is organized in bookform. I have given advices well as taken. Some people do not heed the advices and warnings on this system because of either lack of interest or laziness. These are very old systems that require full wire work and analysis of each component We can advize you on this, all parts are available one way or another. When everything is all done as per the advices then this system does not need to be touched for years during strong driving. The main drawck of this system is learning what everything does, it is like a very old person with many maladys. 30 Plus years do tend to take it's toll on wiring and components but when it is going good, good will stay for a long time. I get 34 miles per gallon (HWY) on my system when I install my lean virgin pressure sensor and 25 miles per gallon when I install my frankenstiened pressure sensor that is adjusted rich in addition to the full enrichment option . My System did not have full enrichment at the this sensor but it was incorporated at the throttle switch so I have two enrichment systems. I tried to add a third but failed it was getting way too much gas when I floored the accelerator, engine would bog and cough out gas from the exaust. This last setup is for power and speed and not for economy. As you can see, this system is easy to tweek, other things beside the pressure sensor can be tweeked or frankensteined. I hope this helps you. LEON MARTINEZ 1969 SQUAREBACK EFI/AUTO SAN DIEGO AND TIJUANA