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On 12 Jun 2001, at 1:12, JaransonT3@aol.com wrote: > Anyway, I hooked up the battery and tried the lights. One headlight and both > taillights and the license plate light. Not bad. The Emergency flashers also > work as does the red (generator) light in the dash. Oh and the green > indicator for the flashers. I got the turn signal to work in one direction > briefly. Congratulations, sounds like you're doing pretty well. If the E- flashers work, then the TS problem is "only" in the dash or steering column. Front TS lamps always have a hard time because they get wet and corroded in the bulb contacts. Pull them apart and clean the parts with a dental tool. I smear grease on the metal parts when I put them back to prevent this from happening again right away, and to keep the bulbs from "freezing" in the socket. > I have not been able to check the brake lights yet....(still need a rear > wheel cylinder to complete the brake system). The starter will not turn over > and the solenoid does not make any noise. I tried tapping on them and still > nothing. I should mention that the engine is out of the car. Does that > remove some important electrical connection? Anyway to check the voltage > regulator with a multimeter? The starter should whizz with the engine out. Check for voltage down the line with a VOM--you'll need a friend to hold the key in start while you do this. The VR can only be checked in operation with a running generator, so this will have to wait. > Oh and how do you turn on the wipers? The button is turned clockwise until > it is tight. Turning it CCW only seems to unscrew the knob. BTW, the wipers > have t made any indication of rotating when I have rotated the knob back and > forth. I think some of the early shafts have a cross-drilled hole in them to help you tighten the knob. On the 66 I think you have to turn on the switch (just 2 positions: ON-OFF) and then adjust the speed with one of the thumb wheels on the dash. The problem could be in the switch, the speed adjuster, or the wiper motor brushes. Any of these could be bad, or just oxidized so that there was no contact. This car should be 6-volt, but you should look at the parts and verify that a conversion to 12V was not started by someone at some time. A 6V system will work just fine, but there it has less tolerance for poor connections than a 12V system. - Jim Adney jadney@vwtype3.org Madison, WI 53711-3054 USA ------------------------------------------------------------------- Unsubscribe? mailto:type3-request@vwtype3.org, Subject: unsubscribe