Re: [T3] Brakes, Clock, Generator?

[Mark Fuhriman <fw2@fwoakland.com>]

> new wire on and bamm! The clock worked. But the clock seemed to wind
> itself about every ten minutes. Is that correct? Seems too often to
> me.

That's about right.

> It kept time ok. About ten minutes off every two weeks. But this
> past week it died again. Same wire burned again. Anyone else dealt
> with this problem?

First, that wire you put in was originally a bit of low temp solder that joined the two pieces you put the wire on.  Something is making that link heat up.  There is a pair of points that open and close (trigger for the solenoid that makes the clock wind up).  The points might be sticking together, which will draw current until *poof* the fuse blows or the clock just burns up (a risk you take when you replace the low temp solder in there with a wire. You were lucky...).  See if you can gently clean up any pitting in these points.

> Second question is about my generator. Seems that my lights dim
> when my car is idling. Is this normal for aircooled cars? I took a
> look at my brushes in the generator and they seem a little worn
> down for the spring that pushes on them is almost out of
> adjustment. 

Not sure what you mean here, but if the brushes are worn down too far (they should stick up above the holders) your gen light will flicker.

> Third question is i have replaced my front brake calipers with new
> ATE calipers and replaced all flexible brake lines front and rear,
> bled the brakes  and filled the fluid reserve. But my brakes are
> still not solid.

Last year Jim taught me this trick.  Make sure the reservoir is full.  Then, open each bleed valve in turn and let gravity pull the fluid through each part of the circuit.  No stepping on the pedal.  No opening and closing the valves.  Just let gravity do it (our MCs are up pretty high).  That filled my master cylinder up just fine.  Keep fluid in the reservoir.. Then, to bleed each cylinder/caliper, just put the bleed hose into a jar with some brake fluid already in there.  Keep the hose end submerged!  Then, open the bleed screw and bleed the line by pumping the pedal in the usual manner..  But without opening/closing the bleed screw.  Air won't get in if you keep the bleed hose submerged.  This worked great for me, and it was sooo much easier than opening/closing that valve.  

-Mark

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