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> I couldn't work on it last night (refrigerator problem took precedence), but > maybe this evening I'll know more. If the wiring is swapped, I agree that > the problem must be either in the trigger points or in the trigger points > wiring harness. A problem with the points themselves seems unlikely to > me... you should see how clean they are, and I get good open/close > continuity on the trigger points connector pins at the dist. base when I > turn the engine over and measure with the VOM. > I respectively disagree. I think your problem is the trigger points. I had a problem with my '71 FI very similar to yours. When the engine would heat-up 2 cylinders would quit working. I removed the distributor and used a VOM to measure conductivity of each side of the trigger points. Using the rotor as an indicator, I noticed that the points for one side would open and close later (i.e., larger gap) than the other. The also was the side that was failing when the engine heated-up. I removed the points and bent the arm that held the trigger contact for that side in to close-up the gap. I performed this exercise 2 or 3 times until the gap for both sides was the same. When I re-installed the distributor, the problem was resolved. I can't be sure if what I did resolved the problem or just removing the distributor and the points resolved it but, whatever it was, the problem has not re-occurred. Steve Bradley Atlanta, Ga ------------------------------------------------------------------- Too much? Digest! mailto:type3-d-request@vwtype3.org Subj=subscribe