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I don't have original wires, these are Bosh 7mm with 90 deg. elbow at
dizzy end. All the dizzy ends as well as the coil wires end are not screw
on, just a rubber elbow guiding the wire to some kind of crimped part.
This is why I don't understand the 8" coil wire having 6 or 7 k ohm
resistance. There is no resistor visible. I'm measuring from crimped part
to crimped part and getting resistance 6 times the longer plug wires.
Tonight I spent another 1/2 hour trouble shooting. I got the motor
started and after warming up, it would run on it's own, albeit roughly. I
checked both carbs are operating the same, both squirting gas from accel.
jet etc. When I started pulling plug wires @ the dizzy end, there is no
effect with the #4 pulled, and slight drop if #3 pulled. If I pull #1 or
#2 the motor dies. I can see spark jumping about the same for all four
wires when I hold the wire above the dizzy. I tried pulling the #3 wire
from the plug end and got a little shock! Not enough to hurt. I remember
reading I should hold this end against the case or other "ground" and see a
spark jump, but I don't see anything. I can hear the spark "ticking" when
I do this, but can't see anything.
Is it possible a weak coil, or bad coil wire would cause only 2
cylinders to not fire? I guess if these had worse compressing or some
other defect they would stop first. Anyway, I have my manual's buried due
to a remodeling project, can someone tell me how to check the coil?
By the way, as expected, home remodeling project means no tranny
rebuilding project... sigh.
Peter Parker
'66 Square; Phillip
Portland, OR
Jim Adney wrote:
> If Phillip has the large connector on the coil end of that wire I think
> it has 5k in it, so this sounds fine. Your rotor should have another
> 5k in it, too.
>
> In general, these have only failed when the resistance goes to
> infinity. It is a wire-wound resistor and it only fails open. Even then
> the spark will simply jump the break for a long time.
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