Re: [T3] Berg7, the valve geometry.

[Stan Schaefer <stans4@ix.netcom.com>]

If you haven't done so, you really need to clearance the rocker arms
for the tops of the swivel valve adjusters, otherwise you can't get
anywhere near the right geometry without a wonking big shim stack
and/or longer studs.  Been there, done that.  Jim says he uses a
ball-end carbide end mill to do the job, I just took my sidewinder
grinder and thinned the heads a little on the valve stem side.  If
you've got machine shop facilities, do the one, if not, do the other.
We discussed this a while back. Rockers are so hard a file won't make
an impression, or if it does, you need new rockers.  Clearancing isn't
written up anywhere I've seen(except here), the catalogs make it seem
like you just bolt on the swivel feet and rocker arms and go.  I spent
a couple of nights sweating over that when I did it for the first
time.  If you do it right, you end up with a thinner shim stack(and
better nut engagement on the studs).

You can cut your pushrods a little on the long side and then use a
hacksaw to trim after the ends are in place.  They're hardened ends(or
should be), so you can just cut right at the joint of the rod and end.
The saw will just nibble its own width away and won't do anything to
the end.  After you've cut all the way around, you can tap the end
back I think I saw that in one of Bergs technical bulletins.  Works,
though.

On Mon, 26 Jun 2000 13:19:23 -0400, you wrote:

>Well, Im on hold again... Big surprize!
>
>I got out the adjustable pushrod (which is a pain in the ass to use when the pushrod tubes are in
>place) and measured out an intake and exaust length and they only varied by 1/32 inch so I cut my
>rods.  My first question, Im told that .060 shims should be used with the swivel feet adjusters, but
>if it needs more then the pushrods need to be longer and once thier cut....
>
>Well as you can imagine  I cut them and they were too short, mainly on the left head as since I went
>through the head fiasco and had the left one swapped out for a FI T3 head with the bosses, now the
>heads dont match.  So all the rods on the Left side are too short to acheive proper geometry even
>with the extra .015 shims.
>
>SO
>
>What are peoples reccomendations or procedures?? Ive got more pushrods coming but youve only got one
>shot at getting the right so I cant afford to blow it again. how close do they need to be?  how close
>is close??
>
>Ive got a couple days I need to catch up on customer repairs so Im interested on hearing comments,
>this is all so frusterating!
>
>Keith
>
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