Re: [T3] Finally Getting Greasy

["Tony Adams" <tony@orb.micro.lucent.com>]

>The other day while attempting to crank it, the starter wouldn't turn (it never has
for me), but the solenoid
>would click. Then I turned the key -- CLICK -- and held it a few seconds. A wisp of
electrical-smelling smoke rose
>from beneath the dash, and now the solenoid no longer clicks. Hmmmm...

While starting the car, a lot of current goes through your ignition switch, there is
a relay mod that is fairly well documented to avoid doing what it sounds like you
just did to your ignition switch.

>Something to ponder: the column-based ignition switch on the Square is disabled, and
a new under-dash switch has
>been installed. It appears to be a brand-new addition, and feels very solid. Could
it be wired up wrong? What
>should my next step be...obviously I need to install a starter that works. But I
don't want to burn a new starter
>out, either, if there's something shorting out somewhere.

You never can tell what a PO has done, and whether or not it was done properly
without careful checking.  Think it through, figure out where power needs to be in
each position of the switch, and using a test light or voltmeter, verify that you
have the expected voltage in all of the right places.

>Here's something else: is there supposed to be a bit of tin underneath the cylinders
on either side? Because there
>are none on mine, but there are what appear to be mounting slots where I would
expect to bolt a cooling tin, if
>this was a Type I/II.

This came up a few weeks ago.  The answer is yes, but if the only tin that you are
missing is from under the cylinders it was determined that these were probably more
important for protecting the push rod tubes than for cooling, and can probably be
omitted if you are not driving on gravel and such.

>Thanks for all your great pointers. I'm looking forward to getting this monster up
and running!

Good luck

Tony Adams
1970 Square FI AT

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