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type3-d-request@vwtype3.org wrote:
> Subject:
>
> type3-d Digest Volume 99 : Issue 250
>
> Today's Topics:
> RE: [T3] Alterations [ "Erkson, Toby" <toby.erkson@intel.c ]
> RE: [T3] more Fuel pump rebuild Q's [ "Latherow, Robert" <RLatherow@Essil ]
> Re: [T3] clocks [ "Bill Niles" <beel@avicom.net> ]
> [T3] Metal insert in window rubber.. [ "Bill Niles" <beel@avicom.net> ]
> Re: [T3] Metal insert in window rubb [ Thomas Mogombus <mogombus@wolfenet. ]
> Re: [T3] Metal insert in window rubb [ "John M. Kowalski" <john.kowalski@z ]
> Re: [T3] Engine Problem? FIXED!! ( I [ stans4@ix.netcom.com (Stan Schaefer ]
> RE: clocks [ "Chad Montandon" <montandonc@hotmai ]
> Re: [T3] more Fuel pump rebuild Q's [ stans4@ix.netcom.com (Stan Schaefer ]
> [T3] Whohooooooo!!! [ The Phantom Menace <vwfye@micron.ne ]
> [T3] Vader with FI??? [ The Phantom Menace <vwfye@micron.ne ]
> [T3] June VW Show in SW Missouri [ Bob Hufford <bhufford@mail.orion.or ]
> Re: [T3] Metal insert in window rubb [ Quicksteps@aol.com ]
> [T3] Mmmm HotVWs [ Phillip Bradfield <phillip@volkshau ]
> Re: [T3] T3 europa bumpers [ "Dave Hall" <dave@hallvw.clara.co.u ]
> Re: clocks [ Sonny8oy@aol.com ]
> [T3] Mark's bee-you-tee-full 73 Fa
hil Dillard" <dillard@suu.edu> ]
> Re: [T3] Mmmm HotVWs [ The Phantom Menace <vwfye@micron.ne ]
> Re: [T3] clocks [ Justin <C-ya@tmgbbs.com> ]
> Re: [T3] Mmmm HotVWs [ Thomas Mogombus <mogombus@wolfenet. ]
> [T3] Neu3 [ Phillip Bradfield <phillip@volkshau ]
> RE: [T3] Mark's bee-you-tee-full 73 [ "Phil Dillard" <dillard@suu.edu> ]
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> Subject: RE: [T3] Alterations
> Date: Fri, 7 May 1999 06:48:04 -0700
> From: "Erkson, Toby" <toby.erkson@intel.com>
> To: type3@vwtype3.org
>
> This is as detailed as you're gonna get. EVERYTHING you need to know is in
> this document I wrote:
> http://www.icbm.org/erkson/ttt/engine/generator.html#custom
>
> CC replies to: None, as I get messages right away.
> Toby Erkson
> air_cooled_nut@pobox.com <-- Please use this address for email
> '72 VW Squareback 1.6L bored and stroked to 2.0L, Berg five-speed
> '75 Porsche 914 1.8L, R.I.P., ORPCA member
> '95 VW Jetta III GL 2.0L, P-Chipped, Jamex sport suspension
> Portland, Oregon, http://www.pobox.com/~toby_erkson/
>
> >-----Original Message-----
> > A friend of mine is wanting to convert his car's generator to an
> >alternator. What is involved in this? He has a '72 Fasty that has been
> >converted to carbs. Please describe & explain in detail. TIA
>
> -------------------------------------------------------------------
> List info at http://www.vwtype3.org/list or mailto:help@vwtype3.org
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> Subject: RE: [T3] more Fuel pump rebuild Q's
> Date: Fri, 7 May 1999 09:28:07 -0400
> From: "Latherow, Robert" <RLatherow@EssilorUSA.com>
> To: type3@vwtype3.org
>
> One thing I would throw in- get a marker or some nail polish and draw a
> line or 2 on the side- there are 3e peices (bottom w/motor, 5 mm spacer
> with offset circle, and pump head)
>
> I disassemble32x nd had a dickens of a time figuring out how to orient
> the spacer.
>
> Wish someone will come up with a way to fix the valve on the end- it seems
> to be the reason my old one died....
>
> -rj
>
> > ----------
> > From: swaffordvw@juno.com[SMTP:swaffordvw@juno.com]
> > Sent: Friday, May 07, 1999 3:54 AM
> > To: type3@vwtype3.org
> > Subject: Re: [T3] more Fuel pump rebuild Q's
> >
> > Well if yours is on the last leg it depends if its the Electric motor
> > getting week or if the vain's are getting funky.
> > I actually made one work from itself. And the other two was junk kind of.
> > Well one was locked up (Motor wise) and the other one had a week motor.
> >
> > When i took these apart i've noticed that there is a 5 point star (Flower
> > metal looking thing even though thats not a good way to explain it. I
> > could draw it on paper and put it on a direct page on my web site or
> > something.
> >
> > But these small tits things get stuck to the 5 point thing and there fore
> > dont pump properly so considering that the motor is OK then you can take
> > the 4 screws out of the top. Keeping the 3 Nozzle hook ups always up.
> >
> > After you have the 4 screws out then the 3 Nozzle section will come off.
> > And do this easy. & keeping the O-ring between these sections. Then pry
> > off the tits from the little spinning thing and clean them. and the walls
> > of the plate make sure there isnt no rust.
> >
> > Check out this place on my site that isnt linked to anywhere this is just
> > a direct page
> >
> > http://www.geocities.com/motorcity/garage/4265/fuel.htm
> >
> > That should have everything else you need to do the project. Let me know
> > what you think about the page!
> > and let me know if you see words after my 3 things to click on at the
> > bottom of the page
> >
> > I think you all will be educated!
> >
> > >From Chris Swafford:www.geocities.com/motorcity/garage/4265/
> > 537Buckeye 36LSB S.W. Corner of Cinti,Oh In the Hills
> > 73'Squareback Yellow,Rear end hell is f6h nual Carbed. 62,000Mi.
> > 71'Squareback Lt. Blue,Fuel Injection-Auto, 88,000Mi.
> > 90'Nissan Sentra Red&White Rusted & 83 Ford LTD Midsize (Gas Hog)
> >
> > On Fri, 7 May 1999 00:13:46 EDT MNWebb@aol.com writes:
> > > Chris Swafford - Please tell us in more detail about rebuilding your
> > >FI fuel
> > >pump.
> > >like..is all that needs to be done - take it apart,clean it, put it
> > >back
> > >together? How did you make one good pump out of three? Any tips that
> > >you can
> > >give? Mine is on it's last legs so I am VERY intersted!
> > >Thanks - T3's rule! - Wilson
> > >
> > >-------------------------------------------------------------------
> > >Unsubscribe? mailto:type3-request@vwtype3.org, Subject: unsubscribe
> > >
> >
> > ___________________________________________________________________
> > You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail.
> > Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com/getjuno.html
> > or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866]
> >
> >
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> Subject: Re: [T3] clocks
> Date: Fri, 7 May 1999 08:42:58 -0600
> From: "Bill Niles" <beel@avicom.net>
> To: "T3 List" <type3@vwtype3.org>
>
> Mine didn't even come with a clock.
>
> I have to be content with hanging my pocket watch from the turn signal.
>
> Bill
>
> -------------------------------------------------------------------
> List info at http://www.vwtype3.org/list or mailto:help@vwtype3.org
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> Subject: [T3] Metal insert in window rubber....
> Date: Fri, 7 May 1999 08:46:28 -0600
> From: "Bill Niles" <beel@avicom.net>
> To: "T3 List" <type3@vwtype3.org>
>
> When you buy new rubber seals for you windows, do they come with the metal
> insert already in place?
>
> I'm assuming they don't and that you have to pull the old ones. Is there a
> trick to doing this, both pulling them out and putting them in?
>
> It seems to be next to impossible to ą back in without destroying
> them.
>
> Bill
>
> -------------------------------------------------------------------
> List info at http://www.vwtype3.org/list or mailto:help@vwtype3.org
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> Subject: Re: [T3] Metal insert in window rubber....
> Date: Fri, 07 May 1999 08:48:17 -0700
> From: Thomas Mogombus <mogombus@wolfenet.com>
> To: Type 3 List <type3@vwtype3.org>
>
> Bill Niles wrote:
>
> > When you buy new rubber seals for you windows, do they come with the metal
> > insert already in place?
>
> Nope.
>
> > It seems to be next to impossible to get them back in without destroying
> > them.
>
> That's what I hear... and that's also why Cal-Look rubber is so popular.
>
> Tom Mogombus
>
> -------------------------------------------------------------------
> List info at http://www.vwtype3.org/list or mailto:help@vwtype3.org
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> Subject: Re: [T3] Metal insert in window rubber....
> Date: Fri, 07 May 1999 18:32:31 +0200
> From: "John M. Kowalski" <john.kowalski@zg.tel.hr>
> To: type3@vwtype3.org
>
> Bill,
>
> Being back from a four-week Home Leave vacation in Milwaukee and elsewhere
> stateside, I am energized enough to answer this.
>
> I reused the metal inserts on my T3 windows and had excellent luck with
> them. The trick I found was that you just need a little patience, gentle
> touch and applied common sense to get them out of the old window rubber and
> put into the new window rubber. Basically, follow these steps:
>
> Take window, rubber and metal trim out in one piece.
> CAREFULLY remove the metal from the rubber. (I only use my bare hands to
> do this. Start where the two half pieces meet each other in the middle top
> or middle bottom of the window. Remove the short metal trim "connectors"
> that connect the trim pieces together. Gently peel back the rubber while
> gently tugging the metal trim from its slot. Picture this: Sit on a
> F ble chair with the window standing upright on your lap. Then start
> prying. Do it gently. Once you get impatient and pull too hard, you will
> kink the metal trim.
>
> Remove the other metal trim in the same manner. Store both pieces and the
> connectors in a safe, FLAT place where nothing will be set on top of them.
>
> Only now remove the window rubber from the window.
>
> Clean the window.
>
> Stretch the new window rubber (I step on one end while trying to tug it
> over my head.) Stretching it will ensure that the corners are full and not
> pulled tight.
>
> Lubricate the new window rubber. USE TALCUM POWDER FOR LUBRICATION. It
> lasts longer, is not messy and works just as well if not better than any
> liquid.
>
> Install the window rubber onto the window.
>
> Make sure the window rubber is installed properly onto the window.
>
> Get the trim pieces and...this may sound kinky...put the windshield on some
> pillows on your bed. Why? the pillows hold the window up off of the
> rubber and horizontal. Besides, there usually are no sharp objects or
> heavy things on a bed that could fall and crack your windshield.
>
> Grab a trim piece and begin inserting it into the window rubber. I gently
> pry open the slot and then push the trim piece into it at about 2" at a
> time. I don't remember if I started at a corner or at the end. Try both
> ways. GENTLY push it in as far as it will go. Once in, it will stay.
>
> Put on the connectors and install the window.
>
> I have installed several windows in this manner and all of them look
> excellent. Never once have I dented the metal trim or had it pop out
> during installation in nightmarish fashion.
>
> Try it. Be patient, but try it. Once done, it will look loads better than
> than cheaper grade plastic "metal trim-look" trim that some put in. Also
> will be much better than that "Cal-look." Unless, of course, that is the
> look you are trying to achieve.
>
> Good luck!
>
> John
> Zagreb, Croatia
>
> AM 5/7/99 -0600, you wrote:
> >When you ' rubber seals for you windows, do they come with the metal
> >insert already in place?
> >
> >I'm assuming they don't and that you have to pull the old ones. Is there a
> >trick to doing this, both pulling them out and putting them in?
> >
> >It seems to be next to impossible to get them back in without destroying
> >them.
>
> -------------------------------------------------------------------
> Too much? Digest! mailto:type3-d-request@vwtype3.org Subj=subscribe
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> Subject: Re: [T3] Engine Problem? FIXED!! ( I Think... I hope...)
> Date: Fri, 07 May 1999 16:36:15 GMT
> From: stans4@ix.netcom.com (Stan Schaefer)
> To: type3@vwtype3.org
>
> Different years had different arrangements. My '71 engine has a
> breather box on top to the right side of the compartment that collects
> vapors and feeds the condensed stuff back down through a tube in back
> of the fan housing to the dipstick connector at the right rear of the
> crankcase. There is a short length of rubber hose that connects them.
> I also have an engine out of a later one, '72 or '73. The later one
> also has connectors from the heads to the air cleaner and from the
> breather box to intake air distributor in addition to the tube in back
> of the fan. The plastic cover arrangments are a bit different from
> year to year, too, on the '71 there's one plastic plug that supposed
> to snap into the breather box. When I first got it, that cover would
> jump around like the weight on a pressure cooker and would fly
> completely off if out on the highway with oil going everywhere. Found
> a new one and got that fixed. The later one has two smaller plastic
> plugs and I've had no trouble with those. Chances are, though, you've
> got a lot of blowby and it's blowing the oil right up the dipstick
> tube at speed. A compression and bleeddown test would find out for
> you right quick.
>
> On Fri, 7 May 1999 01:22:59 -0500, you wrote:
>
> >Where is a crankcase breather tube at?@" take mine up to 75-100Mph
> >(Yeah i had my squareback upto 105MPH!) it blows oil out of the oil thing
> >where you put the oil in. Especially when you cruise around 100 it does
> >it bad! Smoke everywhere leaking thru the oil input thing (i cant think
> >right now) and runs oil down on my exhaust.
> >
> >I went to see how fast it would go the other day because my 73 registers
> >110 Mph and it did 105 but i had to get off of that exit ramp so I had to
> >hit the brakes!
> >
> >But this has been a ongoing problem with this engine.
> >
>
> -------------------------------------------------------------------
> Too much? Digest! mailto:type3-d-request@vwtype3.org Subj=bscribe
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> Subject: RE: clocks
> Date: Fri, 07 May 1999 09:58:55 PDT
> From: "Chad Montandon" <montandonc@hotmail.com>
> To: type3@vwtype3.org
>
> Does anyone have a non-rebuilt clock that still works?
> >
> >Tom Mogombus
>
> Mine does. It is the clunk every few minutes kind. It is one of the few
> things that does work on the car. Imagine that!! It is a little slow, but
> setting it forward a few minutes everyday I get in the car fixes that
> problem. My fuel gage doesn't work though. Volkswagens are the only car
> that i have ever run out of gas in. That goes for all of my family too. I
> suppose it is just a stupid gene in the family!!
>
> Chad
> '70 sqrbck FI
> '70 bus
>
> _______________________________________________________________
> Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.msn.com
>
> -------------------------------------------------------------------
> Search old messages on the Web! Visit http://www.vwtype3.org/list/
>
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>
> Subject: Re: [T3] more Fuel pump rebuild Q's
> Date: Fri, 07 May 1999 17:03:23 GMT
> From: stans4@ix.netcom.com (Stan Schaefer)
> To: type3@vwtype3.org
>
> I've done some swapping a few times, so I can answer some of the
> questions. Fi[# parts position on the pump head is critical. A
> shift of a few thousandths can make the difference between one that
> pumps and one that doesn't. You need to mark the pump plate and body
> in couple of spots and make sure you mark which side goes out. I
> spent one Sat. afternoon the first time flipping parts and sliding the
> plate around to find the one good spot where it pumped correctly.
> There's really no way to replace seals on the pump motor, it's a
> sealed unit. So if it's leaking, write it off and get another. I had
> one that had old gas that had set up in it, it wouldn't run. I took
> the pump head off and gave the shaft a spin and it started running. I
> reassembled it and hooked it up to about a pint of naptha and ran it
> for about 8 hours. After that time, I had some nice dark-red naptha
> and a working pump. That pump lasted about 4 years until the relief
> valve seal started leaking. This is a crimped cap on the pump head on
> the part that sticks out to one side. I tried fixing that, but no
> luck. I've also had the tips get hard and break off on the relief
> valve on some pumps, when that happens, you get gas directly back into
> the tank through the hole and no pressure out of the pump. There's no
> parts available to fix the valve, the best you can do is sub a head
> off a dud pump and hope it doesn't have the same problem. When those
> rubber tips get hard, the pressure won't stay up in the ring and you
> get hard starts after sitting. Why do you think yours is on it's last
> legs? Pump problems are very rare, far more likely to have a filter
> blockage or leaky hose.
>
> On Fri, 7 May 1999 00:13:46 EDT, you wrote:
>
> > Chris Swafford - Please tell us in more detail about rebuilding your FI fuel
> >pump.
> >like..is all that needs to be done - take it apart,clean it, put it back
> >together? How did you make one good pump out of three? Any tips that you can
> >give? Mine is on it's last legs so I am VERY intersted!
> >Thanks - T3's rule! - Wilson
> >
> >----------JL -------------------------------------------------
> >Unsubscribe? mailto:type3-request@vwtype3.org, Subject: unsubscribe
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> Subject: [T3] Whohooooooo!!!
> Date: Fri, 07 May 1999 11:21:52 -0600
> From: The Phantom Menace <vwfye@micron.net>
> To: "A VW club!" <type3@vwtype3.org>
>
> I am apparently back on the list again...we'll see how long this time.
> For all you "Skywalker" types. Beware, carbs, speed and sawzalls are
> back with a vengeance!
>
> Vader
> 64 Notch Roadster--The Phantom Menace
>
> -------------------------------------------------------------------
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>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> Subject: [T3] Vader with FI???
> Date: Fri, 07 May 1999 11:34:24 -0600
> From: The Phantom Menace <vwfye@micron.net>
> To: "A VW club!" <type3@vwtype3.org>
>
> I am almost afraid of the replies I will get, but just last week, I
> looked into FI for the Roadster... Not sure, according to the FI man,
> that there would be much of a benifit in hp, fuel mileage or longevity
> of the engine, but it might make an interesting addition for the 'car
> show' ciucit. The biggest drawback is the $$$ for the system.
> I get a chance to see Toby's baby again this weekend! Hope the weather
> co-operates. It won't be long before the square is terrorizing Portland
> again! May the Darkness put a great big grin alover you
> face!!!!!!!!!!!!!
>
> Vader
> 64 Notch Roadster--The Phantom Menace
>
> -------------------------------------------------------------------
> Too much? Digest! mailto:type3-d-request@vwtype3.org Subj=subscribe
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> Subject: [T3] June VW Show in SW Missouri
> Date: Fri, 7 May 1999 12:45:00 -0500 (CDT)
> From: Bob Hufford <bhufford@mail.orion.org>
> To: Type 2 List <type2@type2.com>
> CC: Air-Cooled Volkswagen Discussion List <VINTAGVz 1.SJSU.EDU>,
> A VW club! <type3@vwtype3.org>, vintagebus@type2.com
>
> Flyers are ready to mail. Contact me via e-mail or fill out the request
> form at http://www.geocities.com/Heartland/Plains/9338/groove.html
>
> June 12th (Saturday): The Fifth Annual June Bug Jamboree in
> Springfield, MO. Sponsored by the General Registry of Ozarks Volkswagen
> Enthusiasts (GROOVE). Over 30 show classes, swap meet, car corral, food
> & fun for the whole family. Located in beautiful Park Central Square in
> Downtown Springfield. Bring a fan to donate to our Air-Cooler fan drive
> to benefit OACAC's program to help those w/o air-conditioning in their
> homes. Contact Greg Crane at (417) 890-0275 or Jay Myers at (417) 886-2557
> or e-mail bhufford@mail.orion.org
>
> June 11th, 12th, 13th (Friday - Sunday): Fourth Annual Busses on 66
> All-VW Bus camping event. Located off Historic Route 66 near Springfield,
> MO. Sponsored by S.A.M.B.A., G.R.O.O.V.E., NEATO and LiMBO, these three
> days of VW Bus fun and fellowship are a must for anyone attending the June
> Bug Jamboree. For more information call Lance Moeller at (417) 889-8813
> or Bob Hufford at (417) 833-2047 or e-mail bhufford@mail.orion.org
>
> If someone could forward this to the Vanagon list I'd appreciate it.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Bob Hufford
> GROOVE/SAMBA
> bhufford@mail.orion.org
>
> -------------------------------------------------------------------
> List info at http://www.vwtype3.org/list or mailto:help@vwtype3.org
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> Subject: Re: [T3] Metal insert in window rubber....
> Date: Fri, 7 May 1999 14:49:52 EDT
> From: Quicksteps@aol.com
> To: type3@vwtype3.org
>
> are any new OE style window seals even available for type 3s?
>
> -------------------------------------------------------------------
> List info at http://www.vwtype3.org/list or mailto:help@vwtype3.org
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> Subject: [T3] Mmmm HotVWsT Fri, 7 May 1999 15:06:06 -0400 (EDT)
> From: Phillip Bradfield <phillip@volkshaus.com>
> To: type3@vwtype3.org
>
> <<< WARNING, DARK SIDE CONTENT BELOW >>
>
> Anyone see the Notch in the current issue of HotVWs? What can I say, but
> I'd like to drive a car like that just once. Just one run down the strip.
> Where do these people get the money to build something like that? Maybe I
> am weakening as a Dark Sider, but why did they use a '62
> Notch? Isn't this really the first full production year for the Type 3?
> Perhaps the car was mostly gone when they started? I *really* like the
> quick release rear fenders, exposing all of the engine. It would be really
> cool to have this kind of access to my dual Dells. Would't changing plugs
> be easier also? I think they solved the air source problem when installing
> a Type 1 engine in a Type 3. You'd have to see the photo to understand
> this.
>
> BTW, Keith, I warned you about looking at this, but you are reading anyway
> arn't you? The Notch I'm talking about was fuel injected. See, Dark Siders
> arn't against it. We are simply looking for better performance. We're with
> you man.
>
> Phillip Bradfield - Portland, Oregon
>
> '63 Notchback w/ 68 pan - waiting for brake, electrical, and carb work
> '68 Squareback - waiting for '67 euro fenders and front clip
> '69 Squareback - chopped 3 1/2" currently getting the drip rails shaved
> '96 Jetta GL - Neuspeed P-Chip and short shift kit, that's all for now
>
> -------------------------------------------------------------------
> Search old messages on the Web! Visit http://www.vwtype3.org/list/
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> Subject: Re: [T3] T3 europa bumpers
> Date: Fri, 7 May 1999 19:50:55 +0100
> From: "Dave Hall" <dave@hallvw.clara.co.uk>
> To: <type3@vwtype3.org>
>
> Just an inspection mark I reckon; I've several different ones. I doubt VW
> made them anyway, but the ones that were good enough were stamped up and
> plated. They were too heavy to be stamp֣ ke the average competitor;
> they had to be rolled.
>
> Dave.
> UK VW Type 3&4 Club
> http://www.hallvw.clara.net/
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Mark Wilson <brum@mwilson.freeuk.com>
> To: type3@vwtype3.org <type3@vwtype3.org>
> Date: 06 May 1999 20:37
> Subject: [T3] T3 europa bumpers
>
> >Does anyone know what the numbers on T3 europa bumpers mean I have a front
> >that has '3 vw 1' embossed on its blade on the bottom? I also have a rear
> >with '2 vw 2' on it in the same place then I have another with no
> markings.
> >
> >-------------------------------------------------------------------
> >Too much? Digest! mailto:type3-d-request@vwtype3.org Subj=subscribe
> >
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> Subject: Re: clocks
> Date: Fri, 7 May 1999 16:03:36 EDT
> From: Sonny8oy@aol.com
> To: type3@vwtype3.org
>
> In a message dated 5/7/99 10:04:11 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
> montandonc@hotmail.com writes:
>
> > It is a little slow, but setting it forward a few minutes everyday I get in
> the car fixes
> > that problem
>
> has anyone had any luck in tweaking the fast/slow adjustment on the back of
> these clocks? it seems that most clocks that work are slow. i have found that
> the more the car is running, the less slow it is. i had one that would keep
> perfect time if the car was running for ~2hrs/day; any less and it was slow;
> any more and it was fast. currently, the clock is just permanently slow, to
> the order of about 3 minutes a day.
>
> sonny
>
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>
> Subject: [T3] Mark's bee-you-tee-full 73 Fastback
> Date: Fri, 07 May 1999 14:19:23 -0600
> From: "Phil Dillard" <dillard@suu.edu>
> To: <type3@vwtype3.org>
>
> Hooray for our side! Mark Wilson got a picture of his lovely blue '73 included in CarPictures.com. You can ogle it at:
>
> I b /www.carpictures.com/
>
> Phil
> dillard@suu.edu
>
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> Subject: Re: [T3] Mmmm HotVWs
> Date: Fri, 07 May 1999 14:28:59 -0600
> From: The Phantom Menace <vwfye@micron.net>
> To: Phillip Bradfield <phillip@volkshaus.com>,
> "A VW club!" <type3@vwtype3.org>
>
> That is indeed a sweet ride...I would venture to guess that the car was
> swiss cheeze! Even I wouldn't cut up a straight ride. Ummm,
> correction, I might put in a slider rag top, but that is style! I have
> no problem running the upright in the roadster, but again, anything is
> possible with a sawzall.
>
> Vader
> 64 Notch roadster--The Phantom Menace
>
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>
> Subject: Re: [T3] clocks
> Date: Fri, 07 May 1999 16:25:57 -0400
> From: Justin <C-ya@tmgbbs.com>
> To: "type3@vwtype3.org" <type3@vwtype3.org>
>
> vtondc@RANDREF.CO.ZA wrote:
> >
> > Wow, your fuel gauge works!
> >
> > Carl van Tonder
> > 66 Fasty
>
> Yep, pretty accurate too. No odo or clock tho. Working with a fellow
> lister to fix that!
>
> --
> Justin
> C-ya@tmgbbs.com http://tmgbbs.com/cya
> '95 CBR9 FeRRari red (now) w/ '93 bodywork
> '71 VW Squareback
>
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>
> Subject: Re: [T3] Mmmm HotVWs
> Date: Fri, 07 May 1999 13:46:48 -0700
> From: Thomas Mogombus <mogombus@wolfenet.com>
> To: Type 3 List <type3@vwtype3.org>
>
> The Phantom Menace wrote:
>
> > anything is
> > possible with a sawzall.
>
> Your favorite implement of destruction? I[xl ne to remove the body off my
> bus and didn't have much luck in the tight spots. I found a pneumatic hammer
> with a small cutting bit did a better job (messy as hell though). What I really
> wish I had was a plasma cutter... mmm mmm good.
>
> Tom Mogombus
>
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>
> Subject: [T3] Neu3
> Date: Fri, 7 May 1999 16:47:13 -0400 (EDT)
> From: Phillip Bradfield <phillip@volkshaus.com>
> To: type3@vwtype3.org
>
> I had my photos developed from the Puyallup show. I need to pay more
> attention to the camera. The shots inside of the show turned out a little
> dark. The shots I took outside are pretty good though. The Fastback that I
> was describing earlier is sooooo sweet. The car is light blue with 16"
> Momo Racer wheels. It also had some newer Golf/GTI side markers on it. On
> the front bumper were mounted two new style Hella driving lights.
>
> I must say, I'm really drawn to this idea of the old juxtaposed with the
> new. (That was for you, Phil. Yep, I went to Art School).
>
> Phillip Bradfield - Portland, Oregon
>
> '63 Notchback w/ 68 pan - waiting for brake, electrical, and carb work
> '68 Squareback - waiting for '67 euro fenders and front clip
> '69 Squareback - chopped 3 1/2" currently getting the drip rails shaved
> '96 Jetta GL - Neuspeed P-Chip and short shift kit, that's all for now
>
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> Subject: RE: [T3] Mark's bee-you-tee-full 73 Fastback
> Date: Fri, 07 May 1999 14:50:54 -0600
> From: "Phil Dillard" <dillard@suu.edu>
> To: <jmac@uglyduckling.com>, <type3@vwtype3.org>
>
> >From James MacNaughton:
>
> > <pant, pant> Now *that's* a pretty car!
>
> Let us all fervently pra%} ames wasn't blowing into his bagpipes when he looked at the picture!
>
> Phil
> dillard@suu.edu
>
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