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<P>type3-d-request@vwtype3.org wrote:
<BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=CITE>Subject:
<P>type3-d Digest
Volume 99 : Issue 253
<P>Today's Topics:
<BR> Re: [T3] Calipers
[ "Keith Park" <TopNotchResto@worldne ]
<BR> Re: [T3] torsion arm puller....
[ "Keith Park" <TopNotchResto@worldne ]
<BR> [T3] Rocker panels
[ "Keith Park" <TopNotchResto@worldne ]
<BR> Re: [T3] 70? Are you kidding??
[ "Bill Niles" <beel@avicom.net> ]
<BR> [T3] Does this include an early 1500 [ scott a keck <noddaz@juno.com>
]
<BR> [T3] clock update?
[ scott a keck <noddaz@juno.com> ]
<BR> RE: clocks
[ MICHAEL_J_SMITH@HP-PaloAlto-om15.om ]
<BR> [T3] generator to alternator convers [ My65notch@aol.com
]
<BR> [T3] Mill Supply
[ John Jaranson <jaranson@the-bridge. ]
<BR> [T3] oil pan air filter
[ "william e. we‚v§} d" <instereo@ ]
<BR> Re: [T3] Rocker panels
[ "Innes" <innes@clickcom.com> ]
<BR> [T3] First Question(s)!!Rusty Heater [ Sqbck71@aol.com
]
<P> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
<P>Subject: Re: [T3] Calipers
<BR>Date: Sat, 8 May 1999 21:55:36 -0700
<BR>From: "Keith Park" <TopNotchResto@worldnet.att.net>
<BR>To: <type3@vwtype3.org>
<P>I dont have a special tool but if the piston head isn't buggered a needle
<BR>nose vice grip usually does it. put 1 blade on the flat
part of the
<BR>cutout and the other on the outside diameter. you can also pressurize
it
<BR>with air after removing the outer dust seal and blow the piston out
(while
<BR>holding the other in place). and try again.
<P>Keith
<P>----------
<BR>> From: Sonny8oy@aol.com
<BR>> To: type3@vwtype3.org
<BR>> Subject: Re: [T3] Calipers
<BR>> Date: Friday, May 07, 1999 7:15 PM
<BR>>
<BR>> jim writes:
<BR>>
<BR>> > Rotate the pistons and make them right!
<BR>>
<BR>> i can't. it's too hard. they only need turned a little (one by about
5
<BR>deg.,
<BR>> the other maybe 20 deg.), but i can't find anything that will do
it. last
<P>> time i tried i screwdrivered my finger. i thought i recalled keith
saying
<BR>a
<BR>> year or so back that he had a tool designed to rotate the piston,
so i
<BR>asked
<BR>> a vw mechanic of 35 years i know if he had had such a thing and he
hadn't
<P>> heard of it.
<BR>>
<BR>> > > this should make them more efficient though, because of
the
<BR>increased
<BR>> > > pad-to-disc contact area, shouldn't it? :-)
<BR>> >
<BR>> > Sorry, no matter how I try to redefine "efficiency" I can't
seem to
<BR>> > make this work out in your favour.
<BR>>
<BR>> normal pad contact area:
<BR>> __________________
<BR>> | ”> ' bsp;
|
<BR>> |__________________|
<BR>>
<BR>> my super-efficient increased pad contact area:
<BR>>
<BR>> |
<BR>> |__________________| (my ascii drawing isn't up to it,
but imagine a
<BR>line
<BR>>
between the 2
<BR>> open ends: this line is longer than the horizontal line in the first
<BR>picture,
<BR>> thus the surface area of the pad is greater :-)
<BR>>
<BR>> sonny
<BR>>
<BR>> -------------------------------------------------------------------
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<P> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
<P>Subject: Re: [T3] torsion arm puller....
<BR>Date: Sat, 8 May 1999 21:58:34 -0700
<BR>From: "Keith Park" <TopNotchResto@worldnet.att.net>
<BR>To: <type3@vwtype3.org>
<P>Good time to repost this!
<P>The Type 3 Front end… DON'T lower your standards!!
<P>
Only your automatics….
<BR>  ºsÇ« nbsp;
By: Keith Park
<P>The type 3 front end is a very well designed one and will last literally
<BR>forever if properly maintained and not lowered but with improper
<BR>maintenance and rough treatment can be shot in as little as 60Kmi.
<BR>This article is to supplement the Bentley manual, and show some practical
<BR>shortcuts and things that that were left out but you WILL need the
torque
<BR>specs and such from the Bentley and it is HIGHLY recommended you read
over
<BR>the whole chapter on the front end before proceeding with any work
on it.
<BR> I will write the article as a procedure to
disassemble and adjust the
<BR>suspension height. If your not concerned with doing this read
through
<BR>anyway as I will include the little things to look for that may cause
other
<BR>problems.
<P>Begin by raising the front end of the car and supporting it with jack
<BR>stands under the beam. Remove the front wheels. Next remove
the spindles,
<BR>the ball joint clamping bolts are a tricky breed and must be delt with
<BR>appropriately. They are 9.8 Shanked bolts which means they
are hardened
<BR>and MUST be replaced with hardened bolts as they are torqued to 40
ft-lbs.
<BR>The bolts may be broken loose with weight on the ball joint but must
be
<BR>removed without any weight on the stud or the stud will jam against
the
<BR>bolt and roll the threads over. Lastly, most of these bolts are frozen
so
<BR>you'll have to wrap the ball joint in a wet rag and use an OXY torch
to
<BR>heat the knuckle where the bolt threads in RED hot to remove the bolt.
<BR>Don't even bother with a propane torch as there is not nearly enough
heat
<BR>and this is the LAST bolt you'll want to break off, its hardened so
<BR>drilling it out is a nightmare. Take your time and geGöò help where
<BR>you need it and they will all come out.
<P> Once you've loosened the lower ball joint stud
bolt raise the lower
<BR>torsion arm with a floor jack being careful of the stability of the
car and
<BR>shifting on the jack stands. Once you have the top torsion bar
so that it
<BR>is no longer pushing against the top rubber snubber you have relieved
the
<BR>pressure on the ball joint stud and you can fully remove the bolt.
Next
<BR>drive a cold chisel or wedge into the ball joint clamp to free the
ball
<BR>joint stud and raise the lower arm further until the stud is loose.
<BR>Remember to check the car and make sure it isn't shifting on the jack
<BR>stands but you may actually have to lift it off one with the jack under
the
<BR>lower torsion arm to get the arm high enough to remove the ball joint.
<BR>Once it is free you can let the jack down and remove the top ball joint
<BR>stud in the same manner only you won't need the jack. Hang the
knuckle in
<BR>such a way as to not stress the brake hose.
<P>If your just adjusting the suspension height or servicing the lower
torsion
<BR>bar you don't need to remove the top ball joint.
<P> Now that your spindles are off remove the shocks
making sure that the
<BR>lower bushing on the shock comes off with the shock and that you don't
rip
<BR>it out of the rubber on the shock. Your now ready to take the
bars out of
<BR>the front end. Lower bars first, First, and most important, is
to take a
<BR>cold chisel and mark the stationary unloaded position on the arm and
beam
<BR>so you can put it back on the same spline later. Next remove the anchoring
<BR>bolt on the opposite side and the retaining finger and thread in a
longer
<BR>version of the same bolt and pound it in till the bar comes loose and
hangs
<BR>free. These splines are notorious for rusting up and perhaps
NEVER coming
<BR>loose so be prepared for a showstopper here. You can heat but
it you
<BR>deform the end of tÙ3 with the heat and pounding you'll ruin it
and
<BR>never get a proper alignment again. One of the locals here in
town years
<BR>ago had a tool he put on it and vibrated it along with heating that
worked
<BR>very well but finding this is probably an impossibility.
<P> Get it loose? GREAT! Now carefully remove the
bar, supporting its
<BR>weight and keeping it in the middle of the hole so as not to damage
the
<BR>bushing and bearing surfaces in the beam on the way out. It will be
VERY
<BR>greasy so wipe it down and examine it. The bar should not have
more than
<BR>very minor surface rust and NO cracks. The bar should be concentric
in the
<BR>hole where it enters the torsion arm too… if it's just a little off
OK but
<BR>if its really noticeable then you have a bent arm and its scrap.
This will
<BR>cause the inability to get proper Caster on alignment. Look at
the inner
<BR>area of the arm where the inner bushing rode on it, if its shiny and
just a
<BR>bit worn its OK, if its scored or grooved but not worn into the arm
its
<BR>been improperly greased and is near end of life but if the wear is
down
<BR>into the arm its junk and so are the bushings in the beam. Look
at where
<BR>the needle bearings ride, there should be NO scoring or pitting here
and NO
<BR>rust. If you see rust your beam is probably rusted through under
the
<BR>clamps and needs to be replaced.
<BR>If the arm checks out you can loosen the clamp bolt, mark its position
on
<BR>the bar with a grease pencil (the bar is too hard for a cold chisel)
and
<BR>pound it off. These splines are also a bear and heat can be used
but as a
<BR>last resort and with care as the grease in the arm will melt and try
to
<BR>catch fire.
<P> The inner beam bushings and bearings are replaceable
but obtaining
<BR>these
<BR>Part's is VERY difficult. The outer needle bearings are easily
removable
<BR>with a puller and a slide hammer but the inner bushings are a different
<BR>sto¨p®¢ VW had a tool to do it but it's hard to tell what it was in the literature
<BR>and the bushings are usually really in there. I have used an
assembly of
<BR>washers on a rod filed on the edges so they will slide through and
latch on
<BR>the other side. This gave me limited success and installing the
new ones
<BR>must also be done with care using a punch that will hold the bushing
and a
<BR>lip that will pound it in to the correct depth. I wish I had
better
<BR>suggestions other than to hope the bushings are good but perhaps someone
<BR>else will invent a better way of getting them in and out without damage.
<P> Now that you've inspected the lower portion
of the beam lets look at
<BR>the upper stabilizer bar. These tend to work loose on the left
side of the
<BR>car so grab it and you should feel no in and out play, just rotational
and
<BR>the arms should both track with one another, both be tight on the bar.
If
<BR>you want to remove it just loosen the set screw on the left side or
the
<BR>bolt on the right side and rotate the arm up so it will slide off.
NOTE
<BR>that these also tend to rust solid and may need heat. Inspect
the arms as
<BR>you did on the lower ones but there shouldn't be a problem here as
they are
<BR>lightly loaded. If you had a loose left arm inspect the bar and
arm to see
<BR>of the edges are rounded off where it had been chucking around in there.
<BR>This is a common problem and if left very long you will need to replace
the
<BR>arm and bar as they will never stay tight. If they look rounded or
don't
<BR>fit together tightly then replace them.
<P> Now here's a hint… a REAL hint on how to improve
the body roll of your
<BR>Notchback or Fastback. The Squareback's, at least the late model
ones used
<BR>a significantly larger sway bar and it's a direct swap with the other
cars.
<P>This will make a very noticeable improvement on the cornering and only
a
<BR>small amount of increased stiffb{’ the front suspension.
<P> Lastly inspect the ball joints, they are good
for about 180K on the
<BR>bottom if the boots are good and will last forever on the top as they
are
<BR>lightly loaded. They should show no signs of rust inside and
move freely
<BR>with NO play. Sometimes they are a bear to remove and heating
them is
<BR>tricky as they have plastic parts inside them sometimes. Try
just heating
<BR>the nut and using an impact wrench. On the early joints you can
grease
<BR>them with a fitting but be careful not to blow the boot off.
Inspect the
<BR>tie rod ends the same way.
<P>
ASSEMBLY
<P> Start with the stabilizer bar, grease the entire
length of the bar and
<BR>arms and use anti-seize on the ends where the bar enters the arm.
Tighten
<BR>the arm on the left side, make sure it cant move around in the hole
and
<BR>then tighten the bolt that goes into the bar on the right side until
the O
<BR>ring seals (don't forget these) squish out. You want it just
tight enough
<BR>so you don't get any axial play but it will rotate smoothly. Then tighten
<BR>the clamp bolt.
<BR> The lower bars should be assembled on the
arms with plenty of
<BR>anti-seize in the position previously marked. Grease the entire
length of
<BR>the arm and bar, use anti-seize on the splines and insert it in the
marked
<BR>position carefully not to scratch the bearings or bushings during assembly.
<BR> Adjustments in ride height can be made but rotating one spline
at a time
<BR>for a very coarse adjustment and the Bentley manual gives the procedure
for
<BR>the fine adjustment. I have found that advancing 4 notches on
the inner
<BR>spline and decreasing 4 notches on the outer spline (1'20") change
is the
<BR>finest noticeable c¹&¼ bsp; Be sure to keep the 2 sides even..
this is
<BR>critical and you want the car, unloaded, with a half tank of gas, to
have
<BR>about ¼ to ½ inch space between the upper rubber stopper
and the upper
<BR>torsion arm. This may take several tries as the car has to be
assembled
<BR>and let down each time
<BR>to check the height. With the bars set to where you want tighten
<BR>everything down and make sure the metal finger mounted on the inner
bar
<BR>bolt is rotated so its over the lip on the lower torsion arm.
THIS IS A
<BR>SAFETY ISSUE that is often overlooked or assembled wrong. This
is the only
<BR>thing that keeps your lower arm and bar from coming out completely
when the
<BR>torsion bar breaks and they do. The early beams had these fingers
welded
<BR>on the beam and they were bent over the arm once the arm is in place.
<BR> Install the top ball joint after making sure
the boot is good and use
<BR>lots of antiseize on the stud and clamp bolt. Make sure the clamp
bolt is
<BR>at least a hardened 9.8 shanked bolt. Now lift the lower arm
onto the
<BR>knuckle with the floor jack again making sure the car doesn't shift
off the
<BR>jack stands and let the stud down into the hole until the bolt will
enter
<BR>freely. Rotate the ball joint stud until the notch on the end faces
front
<BR>and tighten and torque this bolt now before letting the jack the rest
of
<BR>the way down. I don't install the shocks until I have let the
car down and
<BR>checked the ride height as it usually needs some tweaking.
<P>A NOTE ON LOWERING….
<P> Those that know me know that I shudder at the
thought of lowering any
<BR>type 3 so let me put my reasons down on paper.
<P>First off sit next to your car with the front wheel off and look at
the
<BR>front suspension. Now notice how little suspension travel there
is, now
<BR>imagine changing the lower bar angle by I notch which is nearly 12
degrees.
<BR>Now where are 0§þ) ht against the lower rubber stopper! Now
imagine how
<BR>hard the ride will be! Also note that the Caster which should be 4
degrees
<BR>is determined by how far the upper ball joint sits back from vertical
from
<BR>the lower ball joint. This is a function of the geometry of the
car and is
<BR>not adjustable. Now think how much the Caster will be reduced
with the
<BR>lowered stance. Yep! You'll lose it all with just one notch down.
Without
<BR>Caster or with negative caster your car will wander, especially in
the wind
<BR>and every bump you go over will steer the car in random directions
(called
<BR>Bump-steer). These conditions are dangerous for emergency handling
<BR>characteristics and are just not acceptable.
<BR> I have seen some people remove the rubber
stoppers to lower the car
<BR>even more and this really exasperates the shock loads on the bearings
and
<BR>bushings in the beam which are so hard to obtain and replace. I've
seen
<BR>bent frame heads because the car bottomed out in a dip and hit the
clamps.
<BR>Your front end wont last long if lowered and those who say the handling
<BR>feels good have probably never driven a properly set up, tight, type3
<BR>that's been aligned properly.
<BR> If your car is a trailer queen or a sunny
Sunday car on smooth streets
<BR>then lower away but for the daily driver, especially the highway car
you
<BR>probably won't be pleased with the high-speed handling and the suspension
<BR>won't last long.
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<P> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
<P>Subject: [T3] Rocker panels
<BR>Date: Sat, 8 May 1999 22:12:34 -0700
<BR>From: "Keith Park" <TopNotchResto@worldnet.att.net>
<BR>To: <type3@vwtype3.org>
<P>Well.. I just found the receipt for the Rocker replaceme-© e whole
<BR>replacement, not just the cover) that I got in 1991.
<P>its a Tabco part # 40343-L/R
<P>Supplied by Keystone automotive, thier buffalo NY # is (716) 894-6262.
it
<BR>is (or was) $18
<BR>]
<BR>Buying these at $100 is just throwing your money down the drain.
I doubt
<BR>there that cheap anymore but no where near $100
<P>Please psot to the list if you try this # and have success as its been
a
<BR>long time now.
<P>Keith
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<P>Subject: Re: [T3] 70? Are you kidding??
<BR>Date: Sat, 8 May 1999 09:05:54 -0600
<BR>From: "Bill Niles" <beel@avicom.net>
<BR>To: "T3 List" <type3@vwtype3.org>,
<BR> "Keith Park" <TopNotchResto@worldnet.att.net>
<P>Is 46 hp right for the early 1500? I thought I remember reading that
<BR>recently.
<P>Bill
<P>----------
<BR>> From: Keith Park <TopNotchResto@worldnet.att.net>
<BR>> To: Bill Niles <beel@avicom.net>
<BR>> Subject: Re: [T3] 70? Are you kidding??
<BR>> Date: Saturday, May 08, 1999 10:47 PM
<BR>>
<BR>> Single carb eh? I forget what the HP #'s were for them but
the duellies
<BR>> were the same HP as the FI. Perhaps 80-85 is resonable for
the single
<BR>> sidedraft carbs.
<BR>>
<BR>> Keith
<BR>>
<BR>>
<BR>> ----------
<BR>> > From: Bill Niles <beel@avicom.net>
<BR>> > To: Keith Park <TopNotchResto@worldnet.att.net>; type3@vwtype3.org
<BR>> > Subject: Re: [T3] 70? Are you kidding??
<BR>> > Date: Friday, May 07, 1999 6:32 PM
<BR>> >
<BR>> > To echo a previous post....
<BR>> >
<BR>> > Does this include an early 1500 with a single carb?
<BR>> >
<BR>> > I don't think I could get it above 80 - 85 without a hill or good
tail
<BR>> > wind.
<BR>> >
<BR>> > Bill
<BR>> >
<BR>> > ----------
<BR>> > > From: Keith Park <TopNotchResto@wo
Ðå, tt.net>
<BR>> > > To: type3@vwtype3.org
<BR>> > > Subject: Re: [T3] 70? Are you kidding??
<BR>> > > Date: Thursday, May 06, 1999 9:43 AM
<BR>> > >
<BR>> > > If you cant approach 100 somethings wrong with your car or your
using
<BR>> > lousy
<BR>> > > carbs! yes if the cars are drivin fast on the highway AND
the engine
<BR>> > isnt
<BR>> > > properly set up fuel wise, or the oil cooler is clogged with
dirt
<BR>or...
<BR>> > > many other things they will burn up. I cruise at 75 all
the time and
<BR>> at
<BR>> > > 65K the engine is doing fine.
<BR>> > >
<BR>> > > the old shot engine in my notch cruised for an hour at 85 last
year
<BR>and
<BR>> > it
<BR>> > > has CARBS! yes CARBS on my car! but they are stock
ones and of
<BR>course
<BR>> I
<BR>> > > do hate them! I also tow a boat with the square, usually
at 65-70
<BR>> except
<BR>> > > for the big hills and all is fine.
<BR>> > >
<BR>> > > A GOOD thing to have when driving like this is full engine
<BR>> > instrumentation
<BR>> > > so that if something goes wrong you catch it before ruining the
<BR>engine!
<BR>> > >
<BR>> > > Keith
<BR>> > > ----------
<BR>> > > > From: scott a keck <noddaz@juno.com>
<BR>> > > > To: type3@vwtype3.org
<BR>> > > > Subject: [T3] 70? Are you kidding??
<BR>> > > > Date: Wednesday, May 05, 1999 3:49 AM
<BR>> > > >
<BR>> > > > Not kidding about 70mph. My old fasty would not quite
peg the
<BR>speedo
<BR>> > on
<BR>> > > > top end. Just 3 or 4 mph short. Of
course I didn't run around
<BR>> like
<BR>> > > > that all the time, but 70mph was never unreasonable.
The reason I
<BR>> > > > mentioned this in the first place has been the fact that on
more
<BR>than
<BR>> > one
<BR>> > > > occasion (twice) after leaving a Bug show I have come across
an air
<BR>> > > > cooled V dub sitting next to the road. When I stop
to enquire if
<BR>> they
<BR>> > > > need help I am told that "I was blasting down the highway when
I
<BR>> > suddenly
<BR>> > > > had this big cloud âyC behind the car."
I do not know if
<BR>the
<BR>> > > > crankcase was over filled or the engine (rings?) were just
not
<BR>> sealing
<BR>> > > > well. But it seemed that the cars had been driven fast
for several
<BR>> > > > miles. The cars were both T1's but are technically related
to
<BR>t3's.
<BR>> > One
<BR>> > > > was basically stock. The other was mildly modified.
<BR>> > > >
<BR>> > > > I have been in a T3 that has done this but was able to figure
out
<BR>> what
<BR>> > > > happened. Back when I was a teenager a friend of mine's
mother had
<BR>a
<BR>> > 69
<BR>> > > > (?) fasty. Being helpful as we were, we changed the oil.
We
<BR>looked
<BR>> in
<BR>> > > > the book for the amount of oil the car held and saw 5.
So we
<BR>added
<BR>> 5
<BR>> > > > quarts. Went for a test drive and when we hit 3rd
gear.... Well,
<BR>I
<BR>> > > > will not go into that but it made quite a mess. And we
both
<BR>learned
<BR>> > > > about VW's.
<BR>> > > >
<BR>> > > > Scott
<BR>> > > >
<BR>> > > > ___________________________________________________________________
<BR>> > > > You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet
e-mail.
<BR>> > > > Get completely free e-mail from Juno at
<BR>> > <A HREF="http://www.juno.com/getjuno.html";>http://www.juno.com/getjuno.html</A>
<BR>> > > > or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866]
<BR>> > > >
<BR>> > > > -------------------------------------------------------------------
<BR>> > > > List info at <A HREF="http://www.vwtype3.org/list";>http://www.vwtype3.org/list</A>
or <A HREF="mailto:help@vwtype3.org";>mailto:help@vwtype3.org</A>
<P> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
<P>Subject: [T3] Does this include an early 1500 with a single carb?
<BR>Date: Sat, 08 May 1999 12:37:21 EDT
<BR>From: scott a keck <noddaz@juno.com>
<BR>To: type3@vwtype3.org
<P>No, I do not think it does. When I had a 72 Bug (stock) the best
it
<BR>would do was abSüç h. And that was downhill with a tail wind...
<P>Scott (Flat to the floor and there ain't no more)
<P>___________________________________________________________________
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<P> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
<P>Subject: [T3] clock update?
<BR>Date: Sat, 08 May 1999 12:37:21 EDT
<BR>From: scott a keck <noddaz@juno.com>
<BR>To: type3@vwtype3.org
<P>If I am not mistaken there are a few companies that advertise in Hemmings
<BR>and the like that offer clock conversions. When they are done
you have a
<BR>stock looking clock that has an modern quartz movement. No idea
on price
<BR>and I have never had this done.
<P>On another note I received a catalog in the mail from Mill Supply Inc.
<BR>(1-800-888-5072 or www.millsupply.com)
<BR>The only reason I mention them is that they offer T3 rockers.
No idea on
<BR>quality or how the company is to deal with..
<P>Third short note. Does anyone think that if enough people made
enough
<BR>inquires to a company like Mill Supply we could create a demand for
parts
<BR>that could actually inspire someone to make the parts?
<P>Scott (everything I own has turned to rust) Keck
<P>___________________________________________________________________
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<P> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
<P>Subject: RE: clocks
<BR>Date: Sat, 8 May 1999 10:14:07 -0700
<BR>From: MICHAEL_J_SMITH@HP-PaloAlto-om15.om.hp.com
<BR>To: type3@vwtype3.org, type3-d-request@vwtype3.org
<P>Well, at the risk of changing the topic of this thread to "VW spare
tank" -
<BR>although I've seen some
<BR>list discussions taking some really interesting course changes...
:)
<P>Anyway, the VW "auxilliary tank" is an illusion.
<P>The "auxilliary tank is actually the fuel valve at the bottom of the
"older VW"
<BR>gas tank which features
<BR>two intake tubes inserted into the gas tank - one tube is about an
inch shorter
<BR>than the other.
<BR>When the fuel level drops below the lip of the taller intake tube,
you turn
<BR>this simple handle to redirect
<BR>the valve to pick up gas supply from the shorter intake tube - about
a gallon
<BR>remains in the tank when
<BR>this happens.
<P>The only reason I know this is I had to replace a leaking fuel
valve on my '57
<BR>Ghia coupe the other
<BR>day. The Ghia's fun, but give me a well tuned FI Type 3 with
28 psi fuel line
<BR>pressure any day.
<P>Mike
<P>'57 Ghia
<BR>'68 Fastback
<BR>'71 Squareback
<P>----------
<BR>From: Non-HP-type3-d-request
<BR>/HP-PaloAlto,mimegw2/dd.HPMEXT1=type3-d-request@vwtype3.org
<BR>Sent: Friday, May 07, 1999 10:41 AM
<BR>To: Non-HP-type3 /HP-PaloAlto,mimegw2/dd.HPMEXT1=type3@vwtype3.org
<BR>Cc: Non-HP-VKG465J
<BR>/HP-PaloAlto,mimegw2/dd.HPMEXT1=VKG465J@surak.freeserve.co.uk
<BR>Subject: RE: clocks
<P>On Fri, May 7, 1999 17:58, Chad Montandon <<A HREF="mailto:montandonc@hotmail.com";>mailto:montandonc@hotmail.com</A>>
<BR>wrote:
<BR>>My fuel gage doesn't work though. Volkswagens are the only car
<BR>>that i have ever run out of gas in.
<P>Perhaps you should get an older VW. They didn't have gauges but there
washÝQ‰ auxilliary tank. When you ran out of fuel in the main one you used
a
<BR>switch to access the spare.
<P>aedan
<P>---------------------------------------------------------
<BR>Cyberdog ---A Product of Apple Computer, Inc.
<BR>---------------------------------------------------------
<P>1971 VW fastback
<BR>1989 Volvo 240GL
<P>Our enemies shall talk themselves to death, and we will bury them with
own
<BR>confusion.
<P>We shall prevail.
<P> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
<P>Subject: [T3] generator to alternator conversion -- calling all electrical
gurus
<BR>Date: Sat, 8 May 1999 14:00:34 EDT
<BR>From: My65notch@aol.com
<BR>To: type3@vwtype3.org
<P>Okay,
<BR>I've got a standard 12 volt generator with 3 wires coming off of it
-- the
<BR>red wire, D+ and DF. Those feed into an external regulator in the well
below
<BR>the rear window ( next to the back seat -- behind the carpeted panel
) I'm
<BR>going to be switching to a Bosch AL75X ( also externally regulated
I believe
<BR>) Coming off the back of the Bosch is the red wire, D+, DF and D-.
Obviously
<BR>I'm going to get a new external regulator also but where will the new
D- go
<BR>that I don't seem to have now ?
<P>Thanks, Dan
<BR>my65notch@aol.com
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<P>Subject: [T3] Mill Supply
<BR>Date: Sat, 08 May 1999 14:20:45 -0600
<BR>From: John Jaranson <jaranson@the-bridge.net>
<BR>To: "vwtype3.org" <type3@vwtype3.org>
<P>I also received the Mill Supply catalog. I called about the T3
rockers
<BR>about 2 months ago and, unfortunately, they are NLA, no longer
<BR>available. Too bad, their price sheet listed them for $18
each. Seems
<BR>consistent with Keith's price. Will have to check with Keystone.
<P>Later¤ hn Jaranson
<BR>'71 FI Auto Fasty
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<P>Subject: [T3] oil pan air filter
<BR>Date: Sat, 8 May 1999 12:18:28 -0700
<BR>From: "william e. weatherford" <instereo@san.rr.com>
<BR>To: type3@vwtype3.org
<P>my first oil change on a volkswagon by william weatherford
<P>i went to kragen auto parts to get my oil and while i was there i said
to
<BR>myself 'i need to get an oil filter too' (this was obviously before
i read
<BR>the manual and found out i don't need one for my 71 square) the
<BR>unbeleivable thing was that the person at the counter punched it up
in the
<BR>computer and gave me a fram oil filter! i don't think i'll be buying
many
<BR>parts from that store anymore.
<P>well any way, the change went good and i went to clean the air filter,
but
<BR>i didn't know how much oil to put in the pan. i have chilton and how
to
<BR>keep your vw alive, but one doesn't mention how much and the other
says to
<BR>fill to the red line... but there is no red line in mine. right now
i have
<BR>about 1/3 of a quart in there is that sufficient? am i just being anal
<BR>about the whole thing?
<P>thanks for any help
<P>>>>instereo<<<
<BR>'71 san diego square
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<P>Subject: Re: [T3] Rocker panels
<BR>Date: Sat, 8 May 1999 15:38:11 -0400
<BR>From: "Innes" <innes@clickcom.com>
<BR>To: "type3 list" <type3@vwtype3.org>
<P>Well the 68 that i bought is in need of the outer rocker on the driver
side
<BR>. It seems that i will have to buy the ones at $100 each as i cant
fint oÈŽ‚’ at a cheaper price.
<BR>durn
<BR>--------Bryan
<BR>-----Original Message-----
<BR>From: Keith Park <TopNotchResto@worldnet.att.net>
<BR>To: type3@vwtype3.org <type3@vwtype3.org>
<BR>Date: Saturday, May 08, 1999 10:15 AM
<BR>Subject: [T3] Rocker panels
<P>>Well.. I just found the receipt for the Rocker replacement ( the whole
<BR>>replacement, not just the cover) that I got in 1991.
<BR>>
<BR>>its a Tabco part # 40343-L/R
<BR>>
<BR>>Supplied by Keystone automotive, thier buffalo NY # is (716) 894-6262.
it
<BR>>is (or was) $18
<BR>>]
<BR>>Buying these at $100 is just throwing your money down the drain.
I doubt
<BR>>there that cheap anymore but no where near $100
<BR>>
<BR>>Please psot to the list if you try this # and have success as its
been a
<BR>>long time now.
<BR>>
<BR>>Keith
<BR>>
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<BR>
<P>Subject: [T3] First Question(s)!!Rusty Heater Channels!!
<BR>Date: Sat, 8 May 1999 16:42:27 EDT
<BR>From: Sqbck71@aol.com
<BR>To: type3@vwtype3.org
<P>Hi all,
<BR> OK first I must say that you volks have been a great help
so far!! And
<BR>that is without me even having sumitted any questions. I find this
list is
<BR>the best late night reading material.
<P> A good friend of mine had 2 move away to school,
so I bought her VW(my
<BR>first car). It is a 71 Square, wich hasn't seen the road in a couple
<BR>years(due to the FI). So for $100(she had to leave quick), I figured
why not
<BR>have some fun. The body wasnt bad at all, except for the rear 1/4 pannels.
A
<BR>previous owner had Started restoring the interior. But when I ripped
the rug
<BR>out. suprise suprise. More rust! Both heater channels were very rusty.
So now
<BR>I have the task of repairing them. I was wondering if someone
ä—d ve me
<BR>any tips before I atempt to fix em up. I don't think I will be driving
it
<BR>during the winter. So I might just seal off the vents completely.
<P> Aslo I heard(saw) y'all talking about Bill &
Steve. Do they have a web
<BR>stie or somthing I could check out. Not to many people around here
are into
<BR>VW's, let alone T3. So parts r hard to come by. So any web adresses
Would be
<BR>a great help. THANX!!!
<P>Greg Chambers
<BR>71 Square
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