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Re: Oil Cooler: Type 3 Engine


>From what Gene Berg wrote, you can't really depend on the
consumer-grade aftermarket gauges being accurate, so any pressures
and temperatures you see are really relative unless you calibrate the
gauges yourself.  

On Mon, 28 Jun 1999 17:56:10 -0600, you wrote:

>With all this talk about pressures, it makes me wonder what exactly the
>pressure should be.  I have a pressure sender screwed in to where the old
>pressure sensor is on the oil cooler that goes to a VDO gauge.  What is the
>optimum pressure for: running at about 3500 rpm and for idle?
>I also have an oild temp sender bolted into by sump plate.  What -菚d
>running temp.  At what temp should i pull over and let it cool?
>Thanks
>
>Dan Hoopes
>dan@ewed.net
>'67 Square (Stanley)
>'73 Thing (Nameless)
>'64 Bug (Mutley X Baron)
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: Jim Adney <jadney@vwtype3.org>
>To: <type3@vwtype3.org>
>Sent: Monday, June 28, 1999 4:19 PM
>Subject: Re: Oil Cooler: Type 3 Engine
>
>
>> On 28 Jun 99, at 10:02, Per Lindgren wrote:
>>
>> > Well, I cant be totally sure, but the catalogue from the shop said it
>was 12 mm
>> > oil galleys in the case, I am not sure if that applies to the oil cooler
>holes.
>> > I do not want to disassemble the case to find out ;-)
>>
>> I guess I never heard anyone describe a case by the dia of the galley
>> holes, so, yes, they could be 12 mm, with 10mm oil cooler holes.
>> Actually, IIRC, the 2 oil cooler hole bores are slightly different
>> sizes so I'm not really sure what measures 10mm, This is just what
>> "everyone" describes them as. I believe the holes in the actual
>> cooler are 10mm.
>>
>> > The original cooler for the car is 311 117 012 B, on the T1 oil cooler
>in the
>> > car, the number is not visible. As far as I can remember, it was totally
>> > identical, except for the pressure sender hole.
>>
>> Okay, that's right, you don't actually have the type 3 cooler. The
>> type 1 cooler of this shape was only made in the 10mm version.
>>
>> > The initial problem I had that lead me to replace the cooler was low oil
>> > pressure at idle, with a totally rebuilt engine. I had a new case, new
>camshaft,
>> > new oil pump, new relief valves and springs, and new bearings. Even a
>new oil
>> > strainer. All other parts were measured and within specs. I tried to
>replace the
>> > crank, new bearings (again), several pressure senders, pressure meter,
>different
>> > oil cooler, you name it, I tried it. The only thing I didn't try to
>replace was
>> > the oil pump (from Brazil), but as the car is undergoing a very slow
>resto, it
>> > has not been done yet. The oil is 20w-50 Castrol GTX. Any ideas, anyone?
>>
>> Tu\9hts:
>>
>> 1) Did you realize that our pressures are always "low" compared to
>> what most engines measure? In other words, did you only start to
>> investigate this carefully AFTER the rebuild?
>>
>> Part of that is just due to where the pressure is measured: after the
>> cooler for us, before the filter for them (I think). Part is due to
>> the fact that we just do with less pressure. This is consistent with
>> the fact that the only pressure the engine needs at this point is
>> that necessary to get the oil to the bearings. The actual pressure
>> necessary for lubrication is generated hydrodynamically within the
>> bearing by the motion of the journal within the bearing--this
>> pressure is NOT dependent on input pressure, although it IS increased
>> by FLOW in and decreased by wide clearances that increase flow OUT.
>>
>> 2) In many cases, using higher viscosity oils to boost measured oil
>> pressure just serves to reduce flow to the bearings and to maximize
>> the amount of power that is used by the oil pump. Both of these
>> things are counterproductive.
>>
>> I went through a long period of being fooled by both of the above
>> problems.
>>
>> Jim
>> -
>> *******************************
>> Jim Adney, jadney@vwtype3.org
>> Madison, Wisconsin, USA
>> *******************************
>>
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>>
>>


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