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If you have problems bleeding the brakes, look around at your local auto parts supply. There's a special tool made for bleeding the brakes and it amounts to a short length of hose with a check valve on one end and a grabber fitting on the other. The way it works is that you put one in in your waste fluid container, attach the grabber to the bleeder valve and crack the valve. Pump the brake pedal gently until no more air shows in the clear hose and you're done. The check valve keeps air from going back into the line and you can also see when all your old, dark fluid is all pumped out. It's worth the small amount they charge for them over here($5-10US). Since I work single-handed, it's almost a must. If you unscrew the valve more than a quarter of a turn or so, you can also get air sucking back around the thread, I've had that happen on old, worn cylinders. On Fri, 18 Jun 1999 10:37:09 +0200, you wrote: >In the beginning I just pushed the brake once and the brakes released. But >later I tried to push the brake maybe 15 times and then it didn't release >properly. Probably this is what happens in trafic. Everytime I push the brakes >they rub a little more. > >When I replaced the right rear hose the brakes was easy to bleed, but when I >replaced the left front hose I must have gotten air straight into the master >cylinder. Me and my father (he does the pedal pushing) gave up yesterday >trying to bleed the brakes, but we will try again tonight. > >Henrik Larsson, Sweden >1964 1500S Notchback > --------------------í™D¶--------------------------------------- List info at http://www.vwtype3.org/list or mailto:help@vwtype3.org