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RE: [T3] Polishing?


"But are we splitting hairs...?"  NO!

Notice how a black car interior is always hotter than a tan or wh`ÜÕ®rior?  Or how asphalt is warmer than concrete (step on the sidewalk then
step on the street, with bare feet, and you'll see :)  And a Thermos(R) has
a silver lining where it stores its contents.  Color and reflection play
important roles in heat retention/dissipation.

Polishing, particularly inside combustion chambers, keeps the heat internal
instead of flowing into the heads and the rest of the engine.  The generated
heat is, instead, carried out with the exhaust.  Jim, with his physics
experience, can probably explain this better, but the heat in a polished
chamber also contributes to better power usage.

Since the valve covers play a very important job in keep the oil cool you
want the covers dull.  The thin film of oil on the valve covers transfers
heat from the oil to the cover then to the air.  If the cover is chromed
then the heat cannot easily transfer so it builds up in the cover.  Since
the cover is now close to, or is, the same temperature as the oil misting
over it there is little to no heat transfer from the oil to the cover.  So,
the oil keeps its heat and gets recirculated back into the engine and the
overall heat builds up.  Though another topic, this is sorta why an added
oil sump doesn't drop the oil temp very much (maybe a few degrees) because
the oil isn't spread thin.

The black cooling tin not only absorbs heat from the engine but it also
radiates it into the cooling air.  A substance that is a good conductor of
heat absorbs and radiates well.  The opposite is true for a material that is
a poor conductor of heat (these tend to make good insulators).

It's hard to get a definite temperature change.  There are SOOOOO many
conditions/variables involved.  This is something you have to trust physics
and us with, particularly if the engine is used in a rather hot climate
(like the southern US, along the equator, etc.) as well as in built-up
motors.  In these situations you want to do as much as possible to remove
heat from the engine so it can operate in its temperature range as
controlle@K°Ž stock cooling system (air cooling flaps and oil cooler).

When you have 8.0:1 compression, dual valve springs and are running hot
enough to turn your pistons purple and wear down your cam to almost no lobes
you'll understand how damaging and expensive excess heat can be.  Ask me how
I know... :(  Just like trying to get more power out of an engine by
tweaking several little things to get a final hp result that's bigger, the
same goes for reducing the heat -- it's additive.

   Toby Erkson
   air_cooled_nut@pobox.com  <-- Please use this address for email
   '72 VW Squareback 1.6L bored and stroked to 2.0L, Berg five-speed
   '95 VW Jetta III GL 2.0L, P-Chipped, Jamex sport suspension
   Portland, Oregon, http://www.pobox.com/~toby_erkson/


>-----Original Message-----
>> A black engine will run cooler than a white engine, all 
>other things being
>> equal.
>
>But are we splitting hairs here with our polishing and 
>painting talk? How much
>of a difference in degrees would you expect to achieve?

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