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If you've got to do this, you've got another problem, not the right parts or a burr. All the ones I've ever worked on have been a tap-in fit. That's very light blows with a rawhide mallet and a large socket, not full-arm swings with a sledge. Measure and compare the old race with the new race before starting, or better yet, take the old one with you an¶Fòhem at the parts place. On Thu, 8 Jul 1999 07:44:22 -0700, you wrote: >If you have trouble getting the races in, you can put them in the freezer >first to shrink 'em down a bit. Or, you can heat the rotors in the oven to >about 150 degrees. > ><<<<<<<<<<<<<<< >Nathan Jacobsen >'62 NB >'69 SB M/T >ICQ #38633286 >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> > > >> In a message dated 7/7/99 7:53:50 PM Pacific Daylight Time, >> syncroman@wa.freei.net writes: >> >> > Removing the bearing race is the most difficult part of this task. >> >> i'd say it would be nigh on impossible. i put new ones into new rotors, >and >> they're never ever coming back out without destroying the races and the >> rotors. and yes, i did put them in straight. >> >> sonny >> >> ------------------------------------------------------------------- >> Unsubscribe? mailto:type3-request@vwtype3.org, Subject: unsubscribe >> >>