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SteveG=> on a stock rebuild I should include: ...
=> New heads
If the old ones are cracked or otherwise messed up yes, otherwise
they're cores for your rebuild. New valves, guides and springs, and make
sure the rebuilder knows what he's doing. Check your compression ratio
-- if you have a problem getting or paying for 92 octane fuel, have the
compression lowered during the rebuild.
=> pass on a case--too expensive, or should I really spend the extra
=> $350-450?)
Take this as a basic rule for every question: if you don't *need* a
new one, don't buy one, original equipment is better.
=> Valves: What materials should I look for?
You're doing a stock rebuild, so get good stock German parts.
=> Full Flow ... Lightened Fly Wheel ... CW 69 ....
Why complicate your life? If you looking to upgrade performance, the
only important question is how much money you have available. With ideas
like these you're easily doubling the cost of your engine, all necessary
related system adjustments considered. Make sure you have a *use* for
this kind of hardware (hint: your FI system won't notice, so your
performance can't change much).
=> Anything that will allow keeping the stock FI and increase longevity,
=> please mention it.
Don't push the river. VW spent a lot of money on technical development,
the stock systems work just fine, and afterward you'll still be able to
refer to your manuals without second-guessing. (Has anyone ever had a
rebuild last longer than an original non-abused engine?) Put your money
and effort into the details: case-savers, the best valve guides and
springs, matching nuts of the proper hardness, new washers, excellent
machining, clean electrical contacts, the bespüsàs, carefully
balanced rods and pistons, a really thorough case cleaning, all new
hoses, new injectors, the right torque on every nut, perfect end play,
clean, clean, clean, .... A good rebuild is the result of care and
precision.
Steven Ayres, Prescott AZ
'66 Riviera Ghia
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