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Help is always nice, but a late T3 bears little rewŽ»ëe to a T1's engine mountings. The basic requirements are about the same, though. You need a floor jack that can handle the lift needed, a large chunk of plywood(2'x2' works for me)to go between the jack and engine, some decent ramps or jackstands to put the car on and something to support the tranny(jackstand) unless you do the Bentley procedure and pull the tranny and engine together. Make sure your floor jack has a big enough cup on the end, I've seen some purported 2 1/2 ton jacks that only had a 1" stud, what you want is one that has at least a 3-4" cup on it. Kind of hard balancing that engine on that little stud, hard enough to do on the cup. You need a level, hard flat area big enough to drag the engine back once you get it down, a small garage isn't going to cut it. A fire extinguisher might be handy, you're going to have to break the injection loop, there's always gas dribbling. A couple of large sheets of corrugated cardboard to slide the engine on also help after you get things down to the ground. Take some masking or freezer tape and mark the FI harness wires and connections before starting, nothing like getting the injector plugs in reversed. You might also want to make a checklist of what hoses you've taken off, it's easy to miss the pressure sensor hose when putting things back in, makes for a poorly running engine. What you want to do is get the rear mount free after getting the oil filler, fan bellows, etc. loose and out of the way. You then slowly jack the thing down far enough to clear the rear plenum connection and block the tranny up. Take out the tranny to engine bolts and carefully pull back and then lower. The back of the body will have to be high enough to clear the top of the engine on the jack when you pull back, or you're going to have to slide the engine off onto the cardboard and drag it out. I've done that, it's really hard to get the engine balanced back on the jack to go back in working with it directly under the engine compartment. I now use a set of Sears rampÌÀæcare just the right height to allow the engine to come back on top of the jack with about an inch to spare. Haynes is pretty good on this sort of thing, Muir, too, but he doesn't have much for pictures. Takes me about 45 mins. working by myself, but I've had practice. Take it slow, mark things, get some coffee cans to put bolts and nuts into, it won't be tough getting it back together. Have fun. On Thu, 14 Jan 1999 12:17:30 -0800 (PST), you wrote: >Hi all.... > > >........ I have what I think to be a leaking rear main seal.... I'm >gonna pull the engine out this weekend.... I've never done it before >and the guy helping me hasn't pulled a type III (type I though) ... I >have a Haynes and a Muir... will this be okay.... what do you all have >to say..... suggestions.....what should I be aware of.... > >stock 1600 FI MT > >TIA >Robert >'73 out of commisson back > > > > >_________________________________________________________ >DO YOU YAHOO!? >Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com > >------------------------------------------------------------------- >Search old messages on the Web! Visit http://www.vwtype3.org/list/