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On 19 Feb 99, at 12:11, HP2BSQ@aol.com wrote: > I am in the process of ordering a longblock engine ( 'Project Streetwise" > 1776 motor as seen in the DB&HVW magazine series from last year) from MOFOCO. > I have done ALOT of engine research so far, and this particular engine seems > to have all you could want in a daily driver (new VW case w/welded #3, new > Mahle p&c's, CW 69 crank, new hyd. cam/lifters, new 042 heads, etc . . .) - I > also opted for a 'full flow' filter kit (remote type), and the substitution of > Total Seal rings, instead of stock . . . . I vote yes for the CW crank, the full flow filter, and the Mahle's, although there are many good brands. I vote no on the welded case, hyd lifters, and, I think, the 042 heads. Would someone please tell me what 042 heads are? I think total seal rings are overpriced. what I want to know is, does anyone > on the list have any experience with MOFOCO? (ACTUAL personal experiences, not > 'well my freinds brother . . . " type of hearsay). I have personal experiance. From an internet perspective, MoFoCo lives just next door. They did some head work for me which was done carelessly: I had some exhaust studs replaced and they came back crooked, plus I thought the price was too high considering that I sent them a whole bunch of heads. I thought it was something easy to test them with; they failed. Then I bought parts from them. They sold me crank shims that were the old style (pre 67) and claimed that these were "Universal." Finally agreed to exchange them for the correct ones, but the ones that I got were so poorly made that I had to spend a considerable amount of time stoning burrs off the edges so that they would not eat into my crank. There were other parts that I bought from them that turned out to be poor quality. In the end it was just not worth it. I suspect that they thought the same of m ÑjÝiend of mine owns Foreign Car Specialists, an auto repair shop in Madison, he is always so busy doing various things for other people that he just decided to buy a complete engine from MoFoCo to go in his family's 69 VW Bus. I'm sorry, I don't know the details, just that it did not turn out well and that MoFoCo was trying to find something nice they could do for him so he would not feel too bad. I hate to talk them down just because I tried them and they didn't live up to my hopes, which are high. In all fairness, I don't think there are many places out there who would do well in my eyes. I think most ALL of these places are just trying to maximize the amount of your money they can get you to transfer into their pockets, which makes them just about the same as any other line of business. Keep in mind that almost no one out there is doing this because they like you, and no one out there cares as much about your car as you do. I will recommend 2 places: Gene Berg for parts, because their parts are always very good quality, and RIMCO for case work, because they do a lot of it, are good at it, are reasonably priced, and because Gene Berg won't do it. Actually, I let RIMCO rebuild my rods, too. > Also, can the stock FI be adjusted to accomadate the new setup? I have read > that with the use of 1.8l injectors, and by adjusting the factory pressure > sensor, with the help of an exhaust analyser, it is possible . . . any > thoughts Jim? :) The short answer is yes, almost certainly. The long answer is what testing facilities do you have and how much money do you have? Do you have the necessary background in Combustion Science? This is kind of like being parachuted into the Middle East with the mission of making your way do Baghdad. You have a compass and some food and water, but you are on foot, have no map, and don't know where you are. You're pretty sure, however, that you'll recognize Baghdad once you see it. This is a pretty simple problem, just find your way across a 2 dimf?[ space to your goal. Just don't step on any land mines (blow up your engine.) Now look at the engine problem. You have engine load, RPM, and temperature, and air intake temperature to take into account. Now you're wandering in a 4 dimensional parameter space. You have to get ALL these parameters accounted for correctly to get good overall performance. Just getting an engine to idle well is not going to cut it. Of course you could settle for less, but then you could well find that you would have been better off with a 1600, CW crank, balanced drive train, lowered CR, and nicely ported heads. For some reason, people assume that this is all simple. Everyone knows someone who hot-rodded something. Ask yourself how long he has had it, how many miles it has gone, how often it gets rebuilt. Is this the level of reliability you are expecting? Here are the 2 books you should study carefully: Volkswagen Official Service Manual Type 3 Fastback and Squareback 1968-1973 published by Robert Bentley, Cambridge, Mass, 1974 ISBN 0-8376-0057-X / LPV 997 383 / VSQU (excellent book, complete and well written) How to Hotrod Volkswagen Engines by Bill Fisher published by H. P. Books, Tucson, AZ, 1970 ISBN 0-912656-03-4 (excellent book, well written and researched) My apologies for the long post. Jim - ******************************* Jim Adney, jadney@vwtype3.org Madison, Wisconsin, USA ******************************* ------------------------------------------------------------------- Search old messages on the Web! Visit http://www.vwtype3.org/list/