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Hi Toby, Thanks for the tips. I'll keep you message so when I go shopping for the Fasty and the Bug, I'll have some features to ask for. Regards, Tom Cloud >From: "Erkson, Toby" <toby.erkson@intel.com> >To: "'type3@vwtype3.org'" <type3@vwtype3.org> >Subject: RE: [T3] Break In! -- Long >Date: Wed, 3 Feb 1999 10:08:11 -0800 > >Sorry to hear of the violation, James. I hope the damage can be easily >fixed. > >Volks, it's stories like this that make me wonder why y'all don't install a >car alarm? I think the general public doesn't like them because of earlier >times but they've come a long way, baby! > >First, you can buy a good alarm for under $50 -- heck, even under $30. And >they are very easy to install and hide (mine is under the stock speaker®ì. They come with instructions for those who prefer to do it >themselves but car audio shops (Car Toys, Circuit City, Good Guys, etc.) >will do the installation for you...in less than a day! If you decide to do >it yourself let the sales rep know as the price generally includes the cost >of installation, this way you will save some money. > >Second, some insurance companies will give you a discount if you have an >alarm system -- ask your agent for requirements (I know, I know, you'd never >believe it but they can be picky). > >Third, peace of mind. Ain't that enough? In the long run the alarm will >probably pay for itself more than you think (or will ever know :) > >What to look for: > Flashing light (LED usually) to let bad guys know the car has an >alarm. I put mine in my "Fasten Seat Belts" lens but you may want to put it >in a more conspicuous spot. Just make sure it is easily seen, day or night. > A LOUD siren. It can make any noise you want, just make sure it is >loud (over 100dB) and located far out of sight. I placed mine in the spare >tire area, between the nose skin and the brace that the tire rests against; >this way I don't loose any space and can keep the spare tire. > Voltage checking. It simply connects to a door switch. When the >door opens, the dome light comes on, the alarm goes off. If your dome light >circuit doesn't work or you want added protection... > Pin switches. These are a very simple plunger switch. When pushed >in the circuit is open and no current flows. When the plunger is released, >like when a door or trunk is opened, current flows and the alarm is >triggered. You can use the stock door switch instead of a pin switch for >door triggering. But to protect the trunk and rear hatch you will need to >drill a small hole to mount the switch in. I put a pin switch on my hatch. > Key fob (the little remote control). This allows you to turn the >alarm on and off and also set it off in an emergency (normally called "panic >mode"). > >Nice to have bu ˆƒÓquired: > Light flasher. This just flashes your parking lights (and your >headlights if you wish) whenever you arm or disarm your alarm and when the >alarm is triggered. Many with this feature will also flash the lights in a >different flash sequence it the alarm has or has not been triggered so you >will know if there was a potential violation. > Shock sensor. I personally think this is very important. If some >idiot drives into your car or slams their long Trans Am door into yours or >they try to jack it up (to steal rims, engine, or tow it) this little sensor >will trigger the alarm. It measures impact so pushing the car won't set it >off but a kick will. If too sensitive it may go off during a gusty wind >storm. I know earthquakes and sky fireworks will set them off and some are >sensitive to very low frequency sounds like my exhaust and tractor-trailer >rigs (18-wheelers). > Glass breakage sensor. I think the name is obvious enough. > Proximity sensor. Again, something I think is important, >particularly if you have any kind of convertible (sun/moon roof, targa, >ragtop or true convertible), even rolled down windows. These are >adjustable. You can pick out the ones who don't know how to adjust these as >their alarm will go off if you sneeze within 4' of it. Basically, if >something moves within the perimeter that it monitors then the alarm will go >off. They use either very high frequency sound waves (you can't hear it) or >a type of radar wave like what's used in automatic door openers at >supermarkets. Mine is one of these and I can't park near an entrance >without it interfering and setting my alarm off. Luckily, I was able to put >a manual switch on it to turn it on or off for such situations. > There are more but these are some of the basic ones. > >Most alarms will sound for 30 seconds though some will sound longer (90 >seconds is far too long in my opinion) and some are adjustable. They even >make alarms and add-ons that can page you. I bought a paging system thôê[µmade by Audiovox (1.5mile range) and patched it into my system...worked >nicely. Heck, for less than $140 you can get a wheel club that's a taser >system (http://www.freeman-mkt.com/aut.htm). Though a good deterrent it >doesn't protect the entire car like a traditional alarm. > >There are other measures that you can do to protect your ride (park in well >lit areas) but it takes a little initiative and, as I've shown, a small >amount of cash. > > Toby Erkson > air_cooled_nut@pobox.com <-- Please use this address for email > '72 VW Squareback 1.6L bored and stroked to 2.0L, Berg five-speed > '75 Porsche 914 1.8L, R.I.P., ORPCA member > '95 VW Jetta GL 2.0L, boringly bone-stock > Portland, Oregon, http://www.pobox.com/~toby_erkson/ > >> -----Original Message----- >> There I stood, my car ransacked, my vent window broken >> open, the chrome trim crushed where the little >> (&#$@#*()$&@()*#&#$_)(*@_*$!!! jammed a screw-driver into it, >> to break the >> knob off. Every little drawer, box and bag in the car had >> been ripped open and its' contents lie on the floor pans. > >------------------------------------------------------------------- >Search old messages on the Web! 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