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dear list,
Hey all Im back! I see jim is still answering all the questions be they repeats or
tripeats or just plain wacky. Are we all ready for the show season?? Just thought I
would let anyone who cares know Im online once again.
cheers
jason weigel
type3-d-request@vwtype3.org wrote:
> Subject:
>
> type3-d Digest Volume 99 : Issue 230
>
> Today's Topics:
> Re: [T3] Fuel Injection Problem (rev [ "Dave Hall" <dave@hallvw.clara.co.u ]
> Re: [T3] Manifold Gaskets [ Sonny8oy@aol.com ]
> [T3] Lowering [ Aaron Kunkle <ankunkle@ucdavis.edu> ]
> Re: [T3] FI Ua [ stans4@ix.netcom.com (Stan Schaefer ]
> RE: [T3] Lowering [ "Erkson, Toby" <toby.erkson@intel.c ]
> RE: [T3] Tune Up & Brakes [ "Fuhriman, Mark" <MFuhriman@fugro.c ]
> Re: [T3] Tune Up & Brakes [ Per Lindgren <lindgre@online.no> ]
> [T3] Some troubleshooting help... [ "Erkson, Toby" <toby.erkson@intel.c ]
> [T3] engine help [ "Grant Voigt" <gcv@kreative.net> ]
> [T3] "Now you're home alone with a P [ David Yaghoubian <goob@home.com> ]
> [T3] any native americans? [ "Innes" <innes@clickcom.com> ]
> Re: [T3] Grease. [ "Keith Park" <TopNotchResto@worldne ]
> Re: [T3] Manifold Gaskets [ "Jim Adney" <jadney@vwtype3.org> ]
> Re: [T3] Stalling/Cut-out [ "Jim Adney" <jadney@vwtype3.org> ]
> RE: [T3] Tune Up & Brakes [ "Jim Adney" <jadney@vwtype3.org> ]
> RE: [T3] Grease. [ "Jim Adney" <jadney@vwtype3.org> ]
> Re: [T3] heaters [ "Jim Adney" <jadney@vwtype3.org> ]
> Re: [T3] Fuel Injection Problem (rev [ "Jim Adney" <jadney@vwtype3.org> ]
> Re: [T3] Grease. [ "Jim Adney" <jadney@vwtype3.org> ]
> RE: [T3] Tune Up & Brakes [ "Jim Adney" <jadney@vwtype3.org> ]
> Re: Or cables? [ scott a keck <noddaz@juno.com> ]
> [T3] Clutch problems [ Jerryduck@aol.com ]
> [T3] Address change [ "David Buckholts" <dbuckhol@moultri ]
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> Subject: Re: [T3] Fuel Injection Problem (revisited)
> Date: Wed, 28 Apr 1999 19:22:10 +0100
> From: "Dave Hall" <dave@hallvw.clara.co.uk>
> To: <type3@vwtype3.org>
>
> I've never seen the paper ones; I guess a bit of case sealer on the faces
> would do, next time I take the intake tubes off the heads.
>
> Dave.
> UK VW Type 3&4 Club
> http://www.hallvw.clara.net/
> -----Original Message-----
> From: y <jadney@vwtype3.org>
> To: type3@vwtype3.org <type3@vwtype3.org>
> Date: 28 April 1999 04:19
> Subject: Re: [T3] Fuel Injection Problem (revisited)
>
> I just buy the dual carb gaskets and put one on each side of one of the
> bakelite insulators after cleaning all the remains of the previous
> gasket off. This takes 4 paper gaskets per FI engine.
>
> NONE of these gaskets comes in any of the gasket kits that I have
> ever gotten, so you have to do something. I don't think the silver
> steel gaskets that are for the beetles are a suitable substitute as
> they may tend to crack the bakelite.
>
> Jim
>
> -------------------------------------------------------------------
> List info at http://www.vwtype3.org/list or mailto:help@vwtype3.org
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> Subject: Re: [T3] Manifold Gaskets
> Date: Wed, 28 Apr 1999 17:03:04 EDT
> From: Sonny8oy@aol.com
> To: type3@vwtype3.org
>
> In a message dated 4/28/99 12:50:27 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
> dave@hallvw.clara.co.uk writes:
>
> > I've never seen the paper ones; I guess a bit of case sealer on the faces
> > would do, next time I take the intake tubes off the heads.
>
> wouldn't you rather not have to put gooey stuff on it though - makes it a
> pain for next time.
> buy generic paper gasket material and trace the shape using the bakelite
> spacer, then cut it out. i only though of this after jim suckered me into
> buying the paper ones ;-)
>
> sonny
>
> -------------------------------------------------------------------
> Search old messages on the Web! Visit http://www.vwtype3.org/list/
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> Subject: [T3] Lowering
> Date: Wed, 28 Apr 1999 14:12:19 -0700
> From: Aaron Kunkle <ankunkle@ucdavis.edu>
> To: type3@vwtype3.org
>
> I have a '72 squareback that I want to lower. I've heard that on type
> 3's the front AND the rear have splined torsion bars for adjusting the
> height. Is this true? Would it be better to j|3A adjustible
> shocks? I would really apreciate some ideas from anyone.
> Thanks,
> Aaron
>
> -------------------------------------------------------------------
> Unsubscribe? mailto:type3-request@vwtype3.org, Subject: unsubscribe
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> Subject: Re: [T3] FI gaskets
> Date: Wed, 28 Apr 1999 21:29:26 GMT
> From: stans4@ix.netcom.com (Stan Schaefer)
> To: type3@vwtype3.org
>
> I have used the steel bug gaskets when I couldn't find anything else.
> Then the local VW parts place got a fair number of the real FI gaskets
> and I bought enough for the foreseeable future(which is now, I just
> used the last one). The thick fiber carb gaskets don't usually leave
> enough threads on the studs to get the manifolds tightened down, at
> least the metal ones will flatten. I agree with Jim, though, the
> bakelite insulators aren't really meant to take the strain of
> flattening them, it's just there wasn't much of a choice at the time.
> My engine was old enough(and the P.O. had beaten it up enough) that
> there was no bonded paper gaskets on there. The FI gaskets I picked
> up were very thin and fragile, not like paper at all. Reminded me
> more of impregnated fiber. In any case, it wouldn't be that hard to
> pick up some suitable rolls of thin gasket material and cut them out.
> I think the local sandrail guys were using the FI gaskets for some
> oddball carb setups with manifold extenders or something, there was a
> lot of that activity where I used to live.
>
> On Tue, 27 Apr 1999 21:19:36 -0600, you wrote:
>
> >On 27 Apr 99, at 23:37, Dave Hall wrote:
> >
> >> Jim, tell me more about the paper gaskets for sealing between head and
> >> inlet tubes on FI. I didn't find anything like that, and the only gasket
> >> shown there in the parts book is the thick heat insulation one.
> >
> >The original gaskets are about 5mm bakelite with a paper gasket
> >bonded to each side. The dual carb engines use this same paper gasket
> >by Because the "correct" gasket is rather expensive, I just
> >buy the dual carb gaskets and put one on each side of one of the
> >bakelite insulators after cleaning all the remains of the previous
> >gasket off. This takes 4 paper gaskets per FI engine.
> >
> >NONE of these gaskets comes in any of the gasket kits that I have
> >ever gotten, so you have to do something. I don't think the silver
> >steel gaskets that are for the beetles are a suitable substitute as
> >they may tend to crack the bakelite.
> >
> >Jim
> >-
> >*******************************
> >Jim Adney, jadney@vwtype3.org
> >Madison, Wisconsin, USA
> >*******************************
> >
> >-------------------------------------------------------------------
> >Unsubscribe? mailto:type3-request@vwtype3.org, Subject: unsubscribe
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> Subject: RE: [T3] Lowering
> Date: Wed, 28 Apr 1999 14:41:27 -0700
> From: "Erkson, Toby" <toby.erkson@intel.com>
> To: type3@vwtype3.org
>
> First order of business is to get a Haynes or Bentley shop manual. If you
> are going to do this yourself you must have one, at a minimum, one of these
> manuals. Adjustable shocks won't do it for you. For mild drops, say 1-3
> notches, you can still use stock size shocks for the rear. I know for my
> front 2 notch drop it required Bug shocks (KYB). You'll want firmer shocks
> and don't remove the bump stops.
>
> A shop manual is the number one required tool for the home mechanic.
>
> CC replies to: None, as I get messages right away.
> Toby Erkson
> air_cooled_nut@pobox.com <-- Please use this address for email
> '72 VW Squareback 1.6L bored and stroked to 2.0L, Berg five-speed
> '75 Porsche 914 1.8L, R.I.P., ORPCA member
> '95 VW Jetta III GL 2.0L, P-Chipped, Jamex sport suspension
> Portland, Oregon, http://www.pobox.com/~toby_erkson/
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > I have a '72 squareback that I want to lower. I've heard that on type
> > 3's the front AND the rear h% ned torsion bars for adjusting the
> > height. Is this true? Would it be better to just use adjustible
> > shocks? I would really apreciate some ideas from anyone.
>
> -------------------------------------------------------------------
> Too much? Digest! mailto:type3-d-request@vwtype3.org Subj=subscribe
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> Subject: RE: [T3] Tune Up & Brakes
> Date: Wed, 28 Apr 1999 15:26:59 -0500
> From: "Fuhriman, Mark" <MFuhriman@fugro.com>
> To: "'type3'" <type3@vwtype3.org>
>
> Regarding that 43 mm measurement to find 30 deg. BTDC... Sounds like that
> measurement would apply for a Type 1 pulley, *not* for the Type 3. A 43 mm
> arc length and 30-deg. angle corresponds to a pulley diameter of 164 mm
> (about 6.5 in.). That's way too small for the Type 3.
>
> What IS the diameter of our pulleys? I think I read somewhere that the
> diameters vary depending on early or late (1972+ ..?). Does anybody know?
>
> -Mark
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: Justin [SMTP:C-ya@tmgbbs.com]
> > Sent: Wednesday, April 28, 1999 11:52 AM
> > To: type3@vwtype3.org
> > Subject: Re: [T3] Tune Up & Brakes
> >
> > > With a fixed light, you have to use a protractor to make a 30-degree
> > > mark on your pulley, then read it with the light at full advance to
> > > determine how close you're coming to the mark.
> > >
> > > Steven Ayres, Prescott AZ
> > > '66 Grosse Karmann
> >
> > Or measure 43mm to the right of TDC, and make a mark. This will be 30*
> > BTDC and you can use a fixed light.
> >
> > Found this tidbit at http://www.w-p-c.com/buggy3.htm. Thanks to Ken's
> > Buggy Barn.
> >
> > --
> > Justin
> > C-ya@tmgbbs.com http://tmgbbs.com/cya
> > '95 CBR9 FeRRari red (now) w/ '93 bodywork
> > '71 VW Squareback
> >
> >
> > -------------------------------------------------------------------
> > List info at http://www.vwtype3.org/list or mailto:help@vwtype3.org
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>Ը ct: Re: [T3] Tune Up & Brakes
> Date: Thu, 29 Apr 1999 01:14:19 +0200
> From: Per Lindgren <lindgre@online.no>
> To: type3 <type3@vwtype3.org>
>
> "Fuhriman, Mark" wrote:
>
> >
> > What IS the diameter of our pulleys? I think I read somewhere that the
> > diameters vary depending on early or late (1972+ ..?). Does anybody know?
> >
>
> As far as I understand this, all of the Type3s uses a 100cm generator belt,
> that suggests that they all uses same size pulleys. I've flipped through the
> Haynes, but I didnt find any facts about different sizes, nor different belts.
> All I found was the amount of air the fan was able to push (580 litres per
> second @3800 rpm)
>
> PerL
> 73 Square
> Arendal, Norway
>
> -------------------------------------------------------------------
> Unsubscribe? mailto:type3-request@vwtype3.org, Subject: unsubscribe
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> Subject: [T3] Some troubleshooting help...
> Date: Wed, 28 Apr 1999 16:48:00 -0700
> From: "Erkson, Toby" <toby.erkson@intel.com>
> To: "type3@vwtype3.org " <type3@vwtype3.org>
>
> Volks,
> Okay, I just put up the scans from my Solex guide ('50-'60 model carbs) and
> Elfrink FI manual for troubleshooting. They are JPEG scans and can be found
> in
> the below directories:
> http://www.icbm.org/erkson/ttt/engine/carbs/
> http://www.icbm.org/erkson/ttt/engine/fuel_injection/
>
> I haven't made it pretty yet but this should help some of y'all.
>
> Toby Erkson
> air_cooled_nut@pobox.com <-- Please use this address for email
> '72 VW Squareback 1.6L bored and stroked to 2.0L, Berg five-speed
> '75 Porsche 914 1.8L, R.I.P., ORPCA member
> '95 VW Jetta III GL 2.0L, P-Chipped, Jamex sport suspension
> Portland, Oregon, http://www.pobox.com/~toby_erkson/
>
> -------------------------------------------------------------------
> List info at http://www.vwtype3.org/list or mailto:help@vwtype3.org
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> SW [T3] engine help
> Date: Wed, 28 Apr 1999 20:23:27 -0400
> From: "Grant Voigt" <gcv@kreative.net>
> To: "Type3 List" <type3@vwtype3.org>
>
> ok guys, my engine is getting old, when I got it 2 years ago one of the
> cylinders had a low pressure, but I have been driving it since then, well I
> am going to have it rebuilt but, for the time remaining, I would like to be
> able to drive it. Ok, at idle it seems like it is misfiring, it sounds like
> it isn't firing in all the cyl., if I step on the gas it makes the usual vw
> sound. When I drive it it will at as like there isn't much power behind it,
> and then it will sound normal and has normal power, if you guys have any
> ideas please let me know, thanks
>
> grant
> gcv@kreative.net
> ps
> someone told me it may be the plugs are bad, because of the oil that is
> burned, but I had a turn up recently.
>
> -------------------------------------------------------------------
> Search old messages on the Web! Visit http://www.vwtype3.org/list/
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> Subject: [T3] "Now you're home alone with a Piece of Crap" (was: seals)
> Date: Wed, 28 Apr 1999 17:28:04 -0700
> From: David Yaghoubian <goob@home.com>
> To: type3@vwtype3.org
>
> Volks-
>
> Neil Young and Crazy Horse have a song called "Piece" of Crap that goes:
>
> "Saw it on the tube
> Bought it on the phone
> Now you're home alone
> and it's a piece of crap
> PIECE OF *CRAP*!"
>
> It's a litle ditty that comes to mind as I look at my two MONTH old WCM
> rear taillens seals as they crack all over the place. (!!?!) Since I
> replaced all my rubber with WCM rubber at the same time, I figure it's only
> a matter of time (hours? ;) before my window seals follow suit. Of course,
> I will take WCM up on their "Lifetime" waranty, and let you all know if/how
> they took care of me. Until then....
>
> "I went back to the store
> They gave me four more
> The guy told me at the door
> It's a piece of crap
> PIECE OF *CRAP*!"
>
> Dave Y.
> 68 Sqbu(
> 65 Cadillac convert. (yang)
>
> -------------------------------------------------------------------
> Unsubscribe? mailto:type3-request@vwtype3.org, Subject: unsubscribe
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> Subject: [T3] any native americans?
> Date: Wed, 28 Apr 1999 21:09:40 -0400
> From: "Innes" <innes@clickcom.com>
> To: "type3 list" <type3@vwtype3.org>
>
> are there any native people on the lists? Vw people are usually great people
> but it would be nice to meet people who share similar cultures as well as
> vws
> ----------Bryan
>
> -------------------------------------------------------------------
> Search old messages on the Web! Visit http://www.vwtype3.org/list/
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> Subject: Re: [T3] Grease.
> Date: Thu, 29 Apr 1999 09:09:47 -0700
> From: "Keith Park" <TopNotchResto@worldnet.att.net>
> To: <type3@vwtype3.org>
>
> Standard ignition sells the cam grease.
>
> ----------
> > From: oofacts@earthlink.net
> > To: type3@vwtype3.org
> > Subject: [T3] Grease.
> > Date: Wednesday, April 28, 1999 10:52 AM
> >
> > >Moral: Use clean cam grease here, and clean the cam every time you
> > >replace the points.
> >
> > Now, where is a body supposed to find cam grease. Muir said wheel bearing
> > grease, so I figured thats ok. But now I'm wondering, could it contribute
> > to this wear on the rubbing block? Whats the difference between say cam
> > grease, wheel bearing grease, multi purp grease, lithium grease and this
> > moly grease I hear/read about every now and again?
> >
> > -Mike
> > 72 Sqbk, 1600, dual Weber ICT 34s
> > Brooklyn
> >
> >
> > -------------------------------------------------------------------
> > List info at http://www.vwtype3.org/list or mailto:help@vwtype3.org
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> Subject: Re: [T3] Manifold Gaskets
> Date: Wed, 28 Apr 1999 20:28:24 -0600
> From: "Jim Adney" <jadney@vwtype3.org>
> To: t( ype3.org
>
> On 28 Apr 99, at 17:03, Sonny8oy@aol.com wrote:
>
> > buy generic paper gasket material and trace the shape using the bakelite
> > spacer, then cut it out. i only though of this after jim suckered me into
> > buying the paper ones ;-)
>
> I'm sure that the paper is really not very special. You can certainly
> make them yourself, but it would take more time than it's worth
> unless you are caught without, at the moment.
>
> Jim
> -
> *******************************
> Jim Adney, jadney@vwtype3.org
> Madison, Wisconsin, USA
> *******************************
>
> -------------------------------------------------------------------
> Unsubscribe? mailto:type3-request@vwtype3.org, Subject: unsubscribe
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> Subject: Re: [T3] Stalling/Cut-out
> Date: Wed, 28 Apr 1999 20:28:25 -0600
> From: "Jim Adney" <jadney@vwtype3.org>
> To: type3@vwtype3.org
>
> On 28 Apr 99, at 8:35, Carl Van Tonder wrote:
>
> > I use my fasty daily on highway as well as stop start traffic (30 Km per
> > trip to work and back). Recently as soon as I get off the highway,
> > traveling at 70 mph for 10-15 min, the car cuts out, i.e.. it does not
> > want to idle. There is also a dead spot on accelerating hard (I only do
> > this in real emergencies:-}). I drive a 66 fasty 1600 with twin solex
> > carbs, freeflow exhaust (4 into 1) 95 unleaded,
>
> Check to make sure that the dist advance mechanism is working
> properly and not sticking. Also verify that the electromagnetic idle
> jets are both working. I have seen these become intermittent when
> warm.
>
> > Ps. Do I need to adjust the timing when I switched from 93 leaded to 95
> > unleaded?
>
> No.
>
> Jim
> -
> *******************************
> Jim Adney, jadney@vwtype3.org
> Madison, Wisconsin, USA
> *******************************
>
> -------------------------------------------------------------------
> Unsubscribe? mailto:type3-request@vwtype3.org, Subject: unsubscribe
>
> -------------------------<s ---------------------------------------
>
> Subject: RE: [T3] Tune Up & Brakes
> Date: Wed, 28 Apr 1999 20:28:25 -0600
> From: "Jim Adney" <jadney@vwtype3.org>
> To: type3@vwtype3.org
>
> On 28 Apr 99, at 15:26, Fuhriman, Mark wrote:
>
> > What IS the diameter of our pulleys? I think I read somewhere that the
> > diameters vary depending on early or late (1972+ ..?). Does anybody know?
>
> I'd have to go measure one, but the 68-71 and 72-3 pulleys are the
> same diameter. I would guess that earlier ones are the same.
>
> Jim
> -
> *******************************
> Jim Adney, jadney@vwtype3.org
> Madison, Wisconsin, USA
> *******************************
>
> -------------------------------------------------------------------
> Unsubscribe? mailto:type3-request@vwtype3.org, Subject: unsubscribe
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> Subject: RE: [T3] Grease.
> Date: Wed, 28 Apr 1999 20:28:25 -0600
> From: "Jim Adney" <jadney@vwtype3.org>
> To: type3@vwtype3.org
>
> On 28 Apr 99, at 10:58, James MacNaughton wrote:
>
> > I use dielectric grease on the distro cam. That's be relatively recent
> > recommendation, though.
>
> Silicone greases are great at everything except metal to metal. Since
> this is plastic to metal they will probably work fine here. I have
> not tried this.
>
> Keep in mind that dielectric greases are not formulated as
> lubricants, so this might be a problem. Which grease are you using?
>
> Jim
> -
> *******************************
> Jim Adney, jadney@vwtype3.org
> Madison, Wisconsin, USA
> *******************************
>
> -------------------------------------------------------------------
> Unsubscribe? mailto:type3-request@vwtype3.org, Subject: unsubscribe
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> Subject: Re: [T3] heaters
> Date: Wed, 28 Apr 1999 20:28:25 -0600
> From: "Jim Adney" <jadney@vwtype3.org>
> To: type3@vwtype3.org
>
> On 28 Apr 99, at 12:35, Marsh wrote:
>
> > Does anyone have any ideas e hot air that comes into the cabin for
> > heating the occupants? It comes straight off the engine, right? Is there
> > much chance of getting exhaust or other harmful fumes? We get a bit of a
> > smell when hot air comes in through our vents.
>
> If the seals between the lower heat exchangers and the muffler are
> not tight, AND if there is a rusted out gap between the sheet metal
> shroud of the heat exchanger and the exhaust pipe, then some exhaust
> can get blown in with the fresh air. This can be fixed.
>
> Jim
> -
> *******************************
> Jim Adney, jadney@vwtype3.org
> Madison, Wisconsin, USA
> *******************************
>
> -------------------------------------------------------------------
> Unsubscribe? mailto:type3-request@vwtype3.org, Subject: unsubscribe
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> Subject: Re: [T3] Fuel Injection Problem (revisited)
> Date: Wed, 28 Apr 1999 20:28:25 -0600
> From: "Jim Adney" <jadney@vwtype3.org>
> To: type3@vwtype3.org
>
> On 28 Apr 99, at 19:22, Dave Hall wrote:
>
> > I've never seen the paper ones; I guess a bit of case sealer on the faces
> > would do, next time I take the intake tubes off the heads.
>
> Just ask for the gaskets for the dual carb engines; it is a 311 #
> that started in 67.
>
> I would be reluctant to use a sealant where it could squeeze into the
> intake port. It might also make taking things apart difficult. You
> would have to use a hi-temp sealant.
>
> Jim
> -
> *******************************
> Jim Adney, jadney@vwtype3.org
> Madison, Wisconsin, USA
> *******************************
>
> -------------------------------------------------------------------
> Unsubscribe? mailto:type3-request@vwtype3.org, Subject: unsubscribe
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> Subject: Re: [T3] Grease.
> Date: Wed, 28 Apr 1999 20:28:24 -0600
> From: "Jim Adney" <jadney@vwtype3.org>
> To: type3@vwtype3.org
>
> On 28 Apr 99, at 13:52, oofacts@earthlink.ne#+6
>
> > >Moral: Use clean cam grease here, and clean the cam every time you
> > >replace the points.
> >
> > Now, where is a body supposed to find cam grease. Muir said wheel bearing
> > grease, so I figured thats ok. But now I'm wondering, could it contribute
> > to this wear on the rubbing block? Whats the difference between say cam
> > grease, wheel bearing grease, multi purp grease, lithium grease and this
> > moly grease I hear/read about every now and again?
>
> Wheel bearing grease is probably fine. The important thing is to not
> run them dry and don't run with dirty grease. Dist grease is just a
> little bit tackier.
>
> Okay, grease lesson time.
>
> Grease is a MIXTURE of oil and a soap. While this is not the kind of
> soap you use in the shower, it is chemically related and this is the
> correct term for it. You can have different kinds and viscosities of
> both the soap and oil portions.
>
> The soap portion will be based on one of the alkali metals:calcium,
> sodium, or lithium. Virtually all modern greases are made from
> lithium based soaps. Lithium based greases do better in high temps
> than the older calcium and sodium greases. The oil in most greases is
> petroleum oil, but it is also possible to use silicone or synthetic
> oils to make special greases.
>
> Grease lubricates by slowly allowing the oil portion to separate out
> and flow into the bearing, or whatever. If you take apart some old
> piece of machinery that has old caked grease in it, that is just the
> soap with all the oil leached away. The speed that the oil separates
> is controlled by the viscosity of the oil portion, while the
> thickness of the grease as a whole is controlled by the viscosity of
> the soap. So you can start to get an idea of the many kinds of
> greases possible.
>
> Beyond this, it is possible to add any number of other substances
> which may affect the properties of the grease. One ot the most
> common, and most useful is molybdenum disulfide. MoS2 is just a solid
> which is an even better solid lubric*L graphite. It is ground
> into extremely fine particles and mixed in with the grease. Under
> high pressure it burnishes into wear surfaces and is an extremely
> high pressure additive.
>
> I use a special MoS2 compound as an anti seize. It works especially
> well on spark plug threads as it is non-conductive. If anyone is
> interested, I have a few small tubes of this (Dow-Corning Molykote G
> Paste) available for $5 @. The tubes are small, but it is a lifetime
> supply. My own 1 lb. can is nearly 30 years old, I use it everywhere
> in small dabs, and it is still 1/2 full.
>
> Jim
> -
> *******************************
> Jim Adney, jadney@vwtype3.org
> Madison, Wisconsin, USA
> *******************************
>
> -------------------------------------------------------------------
> Unsubscribe? mailto:type3-request@vwtype3.org, Subject: unsubscribe
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> Subject: RE: [T3] Tune Up & Brakes
> Date: Wed, 28 Apr 1999 20:28:25 -0600
> From: "Jim Adney" <jadney@vwtype3.org>
> To: type3@vwtype3.org
>
> On 28 Apr 99, at 8:13, James MacNaughton wrote:
>
> > Have you tested the advance with a timing light?
> >
> > <<<OK, I'm dumb. How is this accomplished? One can actually
> > measure mechanical advance with a timing light? -- as the vacuum is
> > disconnected to set the timing...
>
> Set the timing, then with the engine still running, connect another
> piece of hose to the vacuum can on the dist and suck on it. If the
> vac advance is working the engine will speed up and if you watch the
> timing marks with the timing light while doing this, you will see the
> marks advance. This checks the vac advance.
>
> Now, with the hose still disconnected, direct the timing light at the
> timing marks and give the engine some throttle. If the mech adv is
> working you should see the timing marks advance as the engine speeds
> up.
>
> Then with the engine still running, reconnect the vacuum hose. The
> first thing you will notice is t timing at idle doesn't change
> (on FI cars), thus the insistence on removing the vacuum hose is
> pointless, in this case.
>
> Jim
> -
> *******************************
> Jim Adney, jadney@vwtype3.org
> Madison, Wisconsin, USA
> *******************************
>
> -------------------------------------------------------------------
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>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> Subject: Re: Or cables?
> Date: Wed, 28 Apr 1999 22:02:54 EDT
> From: scott a keck <noddaz@juno.com>
> To: type3@vwtype3.org
>
> No, not Webers in particular. Just dual carbs in general. Just seems
> that cables would make a much "cleaner" installation. Plus you would not
> have to worry about the cross bar binding for whatever reason.
>
> Scott Keck
>
> ___________________________________________________________________
> You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail.
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>
> -------------------------------------------------------------------
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>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> Subject: [T3] Clutch problems
> Date: Wed, 28 Apr 1999 22:05:45 EDT
> From: Jerryduck@aol.com
> To: type3@vwtype3.org
>
> I got my square running thanks to everyones help. On a trip around the block
> I developed another problem. My clutch pedal does not come all the way back
> from the floor. The clutch will pull the type3 at low throttle, but the
> clutch slips at higher rpm. Any ideas? I have not climbed under it yet to
> check linkage problems. During the test drive I made 7-8 gear changes before
> the problem.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Jerry
>
> '73 Square (for dad)
> 71 Bug (for lad)
>
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>
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>
> Subject: [T3] Address change
> Date: Thu, 29 Apr 1999 09:14:22 -0400
> From: "David Buckholts" <dbuckhol@moultrie.tec.ga.us>
> To: <type3@vwtype3.org>
>
> My net admin has changed my email!!!! Just told me today Now it's
> dave@moultrie.tec.ga.us for those of you that care.
> I can start getting my lists again, yeaaaa!!
>
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