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Bummer. Good luck, lad. If you go with the 'beat on it' route; put a beat up socket over the end of the bolt, then beat on the socket. You don't want to mushroom the bolt. If you decide to heat them, just remember there are seals and wheel cylinders that might not take to the temperature. -----Original Message----- From: Latherow, Robert [SMTP:RLatherow@EssilorUSA.com] Sent: Wednesday, April 14, 1999 1:11 PM To: 'vw' Subject: RE: [T3] Steroid Freak at the Tire Store Wouldn't think so- These are the original VW bolts (not nuts on studs...) >---------- >From: James MacNaughton[SMTP:JMac@uglyduckling.com] >Sent: Wednesday, April 14, 1999 11:59 AM >To: 'vw' >Subject: RE: [T3] Steroid Freak at the Tire Store > >Any possibility that they're right hand thread (like on the driver's side of >the car)? When I tackled my first all-original 50's GM car, I actually >broke a stud off with a star-bar, cursing the whole time, only to discover >the little 'R' in the end of the stud. > > -----Original Message----- > From: Latherow, Robert [SMTP:RLatherow@EssilorUSA.com] > Sent: Wednesday, April 14, 1999 4:58 AM > To: 'vw' > Subject: [T3] Steroid Freak at the Tire Store > > Tried to remove my wheels of Æõ™b yesterday to temporarily swap >with > the T4 (the 412s PO put 2 cans of fix a flat then let the car sit- >its > mighty fun going 50...) > > Of course, I couldn't even BUDGE the nuts. Not a bit. Cursing >crazy > crack smoking tire guys, I drag the air compressor and the impact >wrench > out into the back yard. > > Still won't budge. > > Crank the compressor up to 120 PSI, > > Still won't budge... > > Anyone have any clue what I can do? I guess the pipe/breaker bar > combo.... > > Oh, on a happy note, I bought a 97 passat GRX VR6 yesterday. I'm a > VW-only man now. > > -rj > > ------------------------------------------------------------------- > Search old messages on the Web! Visit http://www.vwtype3.org/list/ > >